 | Home > Off Topic > Timber Framed Garages |
 
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| Chugga90 Member Since: 07 Sep 2014 Location: Bucks Posts: 208  |
Before you go knocking it down, make sure planning department will let you have what you desire in it’s place.
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1st Apr 2018 1:07pm |
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| K.M Member Since: 28 Apr 2016 Location: Salisbury Posts: 300  
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I'll be removing the roof covering (bitumen corrugated sheeting) as soon as I get the keys and the verticals but will leave the verticals posts and the external framework exactly for that reason. If they were to deny my alternatives, I'll just make good what is there as an interim solution.
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1st Apr 2018 1:11pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8009  
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My advice is go with someone who does agricultural buildings and scales down to do a wksp rather than some one who does sheds stables and scales up.
First one I had was chart stables, will are latter. Ten years on roof purlins twisted etc etc 2nd came from Brookridge timber so are former. Ten years on looks like new. Get a fibre cement or metal roof over choosing onduline. Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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1st Apr 2018 1:44pm |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2638 
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Timber frame is cheaper and easier than block work in my opinion, but someone who’s done a lot of blocks may disagree! Built correctly you won’t have any issues with damp/rot and it can be insulated to a high standard if you desire. Planning can be an issue as generally timber building are not allowed within a set distance of a boundary however this can be overcome with fire-resistant claddings I believe.
I built my own. Wasn’t expensive (<£2k all in) but I had a slab already and that’s the expensive bit usually. That way I got what I needed and saved on labour. It’s not perfect and I would do some things differently next time but I learned a lot doing it.  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Key points I took away from my build: 1. Use a plinth to build from, this keeps the timber off the slab. 2. Use a DPC under the slab. 3. Ensure the vapour barrier goes on the warm side of the insulation, if you are insulating it. Housewrap type stuff on the outside under your cladding battens. 4. Use decent quality cladding - anything under 1/2” thick is not going to be good enough. 5. Ensure good drainage around the building, especially up to the doors. 6. It can never be too big! |
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1st Apr 2018 1:49pm |
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| HK07 Member Since: 15 Dec 2016 Location: Hampshire Posts: 746  
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Click image to enlarge I had this built 18 months ago, I put down the base and did the low level brickwork, I then had an expert oak company I've used before put up the oak etc., I then put the roof on. It's a lovely structure, it cost in total just less than 16k in total. You can get them cheaper, I am very happy with mine. I am currently in the process of building an other one at the bottom of my property. I have a quantity of quickstage scaffolding left over from the building of my house and i plan to use this as the frame for my new "barn". Also i dont want a concrete wagon anywhere near my finished garden. I am currently digging footings for the low level brickwork four courses high. Then backfill with crushed concreated then scalppings as finished floor. All delivered in using my trailer with me driving carefully across my garden!!! It won't be as good as my main garage, but it will use up left over materials from the build and be a nice cheap big store for toys. 24 foot long x 16 foot wide 😁😁😁 2007 90 Puma - Love it - Best car I have ever owned. 1989 Ninety 200tdi - Love it - Second best car I have ever owned. 1951 80" Series 1 - Love it - Third best car I have ever owned. |
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2nd Apr 2018 11:00am |
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| JOW240725 Member Since: 04 May 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7904 
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I think you need to set your budget and then decide what are your essentials? Are looks important? If not a high tensile steel frame with tin sheeting might be cheaper, quicker and harder wearing, but they don't look very nice, especially next to what sounds a lovely 200yo cottage.
Timber frames are perfectly durable, either oak frame (look lovely) or just treated softwood. As said build off a brick plinth to keep out of the wet. If an open cart shed you need to tie it down as uplift can take the roof off. Our cartshed is over 100yo, when we converted the barn we turned the open side around. The original frame was softwood with hardwood columns on the open side. Presumably for cost saving. The mainframe was OK, few repairs. We then clad it roof and walls in plywood sheets to keep it square and upright and tiled the roof and boarded the sides. Quite an easy DIY job. You'll need to consider planning permission and maybe building regs. Any way enough waffle from me. HK07, that is lovely full of character. James MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641 MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557 Instagram @suffolk_rovers Last edited by JOW240725 on 2nd Apr 2018 7:09pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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2nd Apr 2018 11:36am |
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| MartinK Member Since: 02 Mar 2011 Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border) Posts: 2665 
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I built my own last year.
Started with 4 "stud partition" type walls made of 3" x 2" like this: Click image to enlarge I used a roofing-type membrane all the way around, then clad with 6" x 22mm upright cladding. For the roof, I used 4" x 2" beams, and 22mm OSB4 over the top, and then bitumen sheets. I clad the walls inside with 9mm OSB3 Plan it well 1st, so that you can put any mains cables etc under the concrete slab. You may need to get the roof to drain via a gutter too. I was limited to 10 sg metres because I live in a AONB area, and could not exceed 2.2m high. Total cost was approx. £400 for timber £100 for concrete £60 for membrane £100 for bitumen roofing approx. another £100 for sundries (screws, fixings etc) £200 for all the OSB sheets ~£1000 all in... Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's) |
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2nd Apr 2018 4:26pm |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3745
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I agree you need a budget as prices and quality can vary ALL over the place depending what you want.
I'm lucky in that we have two garages, one attached to house and one at the back of house. We have attached a car port to both. I find it much handier in a daily car just backing into a carport. The one I built below is far less substantial but does what it needs to and survived storm dorris 
The Series 3 will at some point live in the garage, I built a carport for the sankey and it probably only cost £200 or so. Nothing serious but it works. This is the one I built for the sankey trailer. Maybe until you decide what you want do something simple like this? Again I'm lucky as I have a concrete base at the back that must be 5m wide by at least 6m so if I decide to buld a nice big wooden garage with log store etc I have the space / area. 
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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2nd Apr 2018 5:52pm |
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| Intercept Member Since: 27 Feb 2017 Location: Suffolk Posts: 587 
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In 2004 we had this built by a local company to my design to fit an odd shaped plot. The ~6m sq cartlodge was built from green oak on a brick dwarf wall and has a block built annex with log store. It cost £27K back then. It has a layer of 10mm Fermacell underneath the weatherboard to meet the fireproofing regs for a garage.
The first photo is during construction, the 2nd in its 1st winter, the 3rd was last summer. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge It was designed to accept my 101 which is 8'6" tall, so a 110 with roof rack is no problem. At the rear of the property we built a 9m x 6m workshop with a room above. This is of timber clad block construction (downstairs) with timber frame upstairs. The door is tall enough for the 101. Cost ~£50K. Since this photo I've also added a 9mx3.5m lean-to on the right hand side. Downstairs isn't heated or insulated but upstairs exceeds the latest regulations. Click image to enlarge |
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3rd Apr 2018 12:17am |
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