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Teario



Member Since: 04 Aug 2015
Location: Merseyside
Posts: 153

1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi SW Rioja Red
Thanks for the info guys, much appreciated.

The SP-4x4 door is probably the way to go for this. I was hoping I could transfer most of the parts from the current door to a newer type one so I could get a more durable replacement but keep the cost down. It's not that I mind spending the money, just I have a limited budget and there are plenty of other jobs that also need doing. Seems like the SP door will fit all of my needs. Thanks shaggydog for pointing me to it.

It's out of stock at the minute so I'll have to get in touch and see when they can get hold of one.

The chequer plate is one of the next jobs I'm planning to have a look at, probably in the next couple of weeks. I'm already dreading what I'll find when I take it off.
Post #503015 10th Feb 2016 9:28am
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Teario



Member Since: 04 Aug 2015
Location: Merseyside
Posts: 153

1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi SW Rioja Red
Decided this week to tackle the brakes as the rear passenger side was making a worrying grinding noise.
Acquired a set of new pads and discs all round and with a week off work I thought it'd be smooth sailing.

I started on the rears and the first one was pretty easy.


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The other side was less easy. One of the wheel nuts wouldn't budge even with the impact gun. After a bit too much enthusiasm I ended up breaking it a little bit.


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So a second hand hub was acquired, but at least it was all apart then and the actual disc and pad change was painless.
This side was the one that I desperately wanted to change as it was grinding under braking. This is what the old pads looked like when I got them out. The bottom of the plate has been rubbing away.

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Once I got onto the fronts I realised I'd got vented discs (I just asked the dealer for discs for my year vehicle as I didn't know which type I needed) but the ones already on turned out to be solid. In hindsight it would have been easy for me to check this before ordering. I just decided to do the pads as I'd already made a start and they really needed doing. I'll come back to the discs in the near future.

All four pads I removed form the fronts had a distinct lip on them, as though they hadn't sat flush with the disc. I found it hard to get the new ones seated properly, but I got 3 of them down. This one wouldn't go in no matter how many times I reseated it though. This is just how far out all the old ones were sitting. It does line up with the holes in the calliper though.

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Braking now feels significantly more responsive. I'm probably pressing about 20% down on the pedal now to stop rather than 75% or more that I was previously having to do.

One final quick thing to do was check the bulbs in the dash were all working. All seemed okay except for the diff lock light which I knew had a good bulb in but it never lit up no matter how far I went with diff lock engaged. Another item on the list then.

I also got curious about this blank on the bottom row centre of the cluster.

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With a bulb in, it appears to indicate a temp warning. However it goes out when I drop the handbrake.

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Hopefully that's nothing to worry about. The actual temp gauge reads fine.
Post #564578 16th Sep 2016 11:28pm
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GREENI



Member Since: 22 Aug 2010
Location: staffs
Posts: 10381

United Kingdom 
The warning light is not normally used, I 'think' it's gearbox temp.

The broken wheel stud can be replaced quite easily, just knock it out and hammer/press one back in, easy when the disc is off... Just for future reference Thumbs Up
Post #564589 17th Sep 2016 7:03am
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Teario



Member Since: 04 Aug 2015
Location: Merseyside
Posts: 153

1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi SW Rioja Red
GREENI wrote:
The broken wheel stud can be replaced quite easily, just knock it out and hammer/press one back in


It does indeed just hammer out Embarassed

Oh well, lesson learnt. I'll move that from the scrap to the spares pile then Cool
Post #564805 18th Sep 2016 11:16am
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Teario



Member Since: 04 Aug 2015
Location: Merseyside
Posts: 153

1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi SW Rioja Red
Another minor maintenance task checked off the list this weekend.


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I've also spent the last couple of weeks wrestling with a strange locking issue. Pressing to engage the alarm on the keyfob just suddenly stopped working. I tried a new battery but that didn't help. Pressing the keyfob button repeatedly would occasionally work, but it was unreliable and would normally take a long time if it did eventually work.

That wasn't such a problem because I could just not set the alarm, however after leaving it all night and trying to go to work in the morning, the immobiliser would kick in and the disarm button on the keyfob was also not working. After much struggle I came up with a system that seemed to mean it only took me a couple of minutes to get the car started instead of 5+, which was to open up the keyfob and press down on the battery holder really hard, then just quickly and repeatedly press the unlock button until eventually it worked.

This evening I finally had time to give it a proper look over and now I see why pressing the battery holder made such a difference.


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I'm just relieved it was something so simple and not a fault with anything expensive. I'm guessing I must have dropped the keys and it's come loose when it hit the ground. A quick bit of solder and it's all working fine again.


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Post #576422 8th Nov 2016 11:35pm
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Teario



Member Since: 04 Aug 2015
Location: Merseyside
Posts: 153

1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi SW Rioja Red
Today I went from this:

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To this:

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I think it looks much better with the new ones on. Now I just need to give it a good clean.
Post #622141 6th May 2017 2:25pm
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L110CDL



Member Since: 31 Oct 2015
Location: Devon
Posts: 10742

England 
Looks really good there Thumbs Up A good days cleaning should get it looking A1 Wink 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.

Keeper.

Clayton.
Post #622246 6th May 2017 9:24pm
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Procta



Member Since: 03 Dec 2016
Location: Sunderland
Posts: 5161

United Kingdom 
black and red yeah!! Defender TD5 90 ---/--- Peugeot 306 HDI hatch back

Success is 90% Inspiration and 4 minutes Preparation # you can make it!
Post #624140 14th May 2017 7:05pm
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g-mack



Member Since: 07 Jan 2014
Location: northumberland
Posts: 1967

United Kingdom 
wheels looking good Thumbs Up My 109 thread

my youtube channel
Post #625647 20th May 2017 8:05pm
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jonesfrm



Member Since: 03 Apr 2017
Location: Gloucester- Churchdown
Posts: 104

England 
Really good colour way! Thumbs Up
Post #625676 20th May 2017 9:31pm
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Teario



Member Since: 04 Aug 2015
Location: Merseyside
Posts: 153

1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi SW Rioja Red
Poor old Red has been put away in storage for a while now. After having no problems during my short work commute I went for a 100 mile run out this weekend and started developing issues. Now all the gears feel really rough and there's a chat-chat-chat like a steam engine when driving. There's a few more new and concerning noises too that I'm sure I'll track down, although as always he still got me home.

Anyway with the MOT coming up and being pretty sure there'd be more chassis welding to do, the handbrake needing attention and starter motor issues making it a constant hassle to actually get going, I'd decided to just see December out and then do some serious work. With this weekend's developments I've brought that forward and got him in the garage ready to be worked on... when the weather warms up a bit.

I've got another daily now so I can take my time getting big red sorted out properly. The first plan is a galv chassis because the current doesn't look like it's got much left in it. I'll see where it goes from there.

Here's Red getting prepared to go into the garage, the last time I'll drive it for a while.


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Here's my new daily to use while the work is happening.

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It feels strange to be able to step out of it and straight onto the ground. I also forgot what it's like to drive a car that's not a box, so you can't properly see the end of it when parking.
Post #669050 4th Dec 2017 11:54pm
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Teario



Member Since: 04 Aug 2015
Location: Merseyside
Posts: 153

1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi SW Rioja Red
Well I took a week off over the Easter holiday, roped my dad into helping me out and got quite a bit of work done.

Here's where started.

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The chassis looks a bit sorry for itself.

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Popped the wings off to get them out of the way so we could do the work.

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Got the back in place as far back as we could.

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and... lift off!

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To split the body from the chassis we jacked the vehicle up and put a bar under the rear tub. Secured the bar and then let the chassis down. It fell away no problem, much easier than we expected.


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For the front, we lifted it up on straps temporarily and then put a bar through to relieve the strain on the rafters.

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Then we could just roll the chassis out from under the body.

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Next out was the engine and gearbox.

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Front axle off. Although it looks like not much in this post, it took us about 2 and a half days to get to this point.

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But it was an exciting time - new ARB went on, the first new part. Maybe slightly premature but it made us feel better after all the work we'd done.

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Here's what the old chassis looked like. The tow bar needed to be ground out because it was welded to the crossmember. The crossmember itself was the worst part - probably what years of having that chequer plate on it had done.

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And that's pretty much how we left it at the end of that day. All ready for the new chassis to arrive.

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Which it did, bright and early the next morning.

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The old and the shiny new.

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Although it wasn't shiny for very long. Covered it in T-Wash so that it could be painted.

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Then left it to dry over night.

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Next day, more new parts - turrets, shocks and springs on the front.

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Steering damper, plus shocks and springs on the back.

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Kind of wish I'd painted the front axle at this point. I did cover some of the rougher parts but did the whole back one. I'll be giving the chassis another coat in the future before the body goes back on so I'll probably do it then. Also at this point we realised we didn't actually have all the parts for the rear shocks to go back on properly. Got them ordered (just some washers, nuts and bolts) but they weren't going to turn up in time.

While the gearbox was off we serviced the clutch. The thrust bearing was absolutely on its last legs, which explains the horrible noises I was getting the last time I drove it. Engine and gearbox back together, new mountings on the chassis and on it went.

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Then a few quick little extra tidy up jobs done before going back away for the next long weekend.


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Post #698067 2nd Apr 2018 6:50pm
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GREENI



Member Since: 22 Aug 2010
Location: staffs
Posts: 10381

United Kingdom 
Well done. Always satisfying bolting stuff on a new chassis Cool

Chequer plate rear cross members are there to hide stuff. Always.
Post #698072 2nd Apr 2018 6:59pm
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JOW240725



Member Since: 04 May 2015
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 7904

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Orkney Grey
Great work, going to be awesome! Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html
MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641
MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557
Instagram @suffolk_rovers
Post #698081 2nd Apr 2018 7:18pm
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L90Andy



Member Since: 29 May 2014
Location: Stratford-Upon-Avon
Posts: 717

United Kingdom 1997 Defender 90 300 Tdi ST Nato Green
Fantastic post!
Is it a Richards?
My old Ninety has a few patches so debating whether doing a swap myself one day is a goer.
So many questions...! Instagram: l90andy

2006 Land Rover 90 TD5 CSW Silver Edition

My 1984 Ninety: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic56071.html - SOLD!
My 2015 Defender: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic39625.html - SOLD!
Post #698097 2nd Apr 2018 7:43pm
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