 | Home > Td5 > power loss for split second while driving at 60mph |
 
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| Landie Boy Member Since: 14 Jan 2011 Location: Essex Posts: 431   
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If the temp gauge is doing that you could have damaged the sensor, if the sensor sent back a really high reading the ecu would probably cut engine power... Kinda like a safeguard. Hope this helps
Jack |
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2nd May 2011 12:03am |
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| 993porky Member Since: 01 May 2011 Location: sunderland Posts: 170 
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Hi landie boy thanks for reply, so do u think it cud b a temp sensor just broken and every now and then this prob happens due to dodgy sensor, also where on engine wud I locate this sensor so I can try a new one, also the loss in power seems to happen before the gauge moves.? Cheers for help
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2nd May 2011 8:46am |
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| Landie Boy Member Since: 14 Jan 2011 Location: Essex Posts: 431
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I'm not sure where it is in the engine bay, it might be worth you paying someone a visit who has access to diagnostic equipment. Any dealer has it, i reckon it will have created a error code which would be stored on the ECU. The dial will have a slower reaction time compared to the ECU...
Hope this helps Jack |
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2nd May 2011 10:49am |
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| Steve in Germany Member Since: 18 Mar 2011 Location: Up a hill in Brecon Posts: 54  
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Next time your out, when you loose power watch your left hand mirror to see if you get any black exhaust smoke at the same time as the power lose. Def need to get it on diagnostics, I would bet on airflow fault.
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2nd May 2011 12:22pm |
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| Alive Tuning Member Since: 01 Mar 2010 Location: Louth Posts: 609 
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I do wonder if your head gasket is showing signs of age, and you're getting bubbles of hot exhaust gasses working their way up to the top hose? This will most deffinetly cause this to occur, and as previously said, the engine management has a strategey to reduce engine torque when there are excessive coolant temperatures.
The fact this only occurs under relatively high loads, and prolonged use, would reinforce my theory. Engine load increases exponentially in relation to wind resistance, and at around 50mph your engine is at the threshold of peak efficiency, and so will return best mpg in 5th. As a simplified example, To maintain a constant 60mph would take an additional 20% more effort from the engine, 70mph would be 40%, and so on. It's this extra loading which would be enough to raise cylinder pressures enough to breach the seal on the head gasket, and introduce gasses into the cooling system. Most of the gasses will be vented to atmosphere in the header tank (degassing tank), hence why you're not seeing overpressurisation of your cooling system, and hence blown hoses. The engine temp sensor is located where the top coolant hose meets the head, on the exhaust side of the engine. The chances of this sensor being faulty, I expect would be very slim. The wiring in that area is exposed to some pretty extreme temps, and it is possible that the wires to the sensor may not be 100%. A quick wiggle test would prove this I am sure, but if the circuit failed, the temp gauge would drop rather than rise. |
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2nd May 2011 12:46pm |
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| 993porky Member Since: 01 May 2011 Location: sunderland Posts: 170
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Hi thanks for the replies some useful thoughts for me to look into,if it is head gasket is that a case of getting it repaired asap to avoid further damage.I have got a secondhand sensor I might put in just incase.also keen to get the vehicle chipped for better performance, was going to make enquiries at landy show next week at Driffield,are you at the show got a few engine upgrades I'm interested in thanks.
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2nd May 2011 3:06pm |
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| Alive Tuning Member Since: 01 Mar 2010 Location: Louth Posts: 609
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Yes, deffinetly! Blown Head gasket symptoms on a Td5 are usually different to most other cars, as it usually shows itself in the form of overpressurising the cooling system. First thing to check is the presence of air in the top hose. Squeeze the hose repeatedly, and feel if it has coolant in there. You should see a spurt of coolant going back into the expansion tank, and should generally hear it sloshing around. If it feels empty, undo the bleed screw carefully and bleed the system. If there is plenty of air in their, you've got to ask why? With the engine cold, undo the expansion tank filler cap, to release any positive pressure held in the cooling system. Refit the cap nice and tight, then drive the car as normal, to get it hot. Ideally, it would need a bit of a spanking to ensure you're seeing high cylinder pressures, to breach the gasket, so once up to temp, give it some, but keep an eye on the temp gauge so as not to cook the engine! Allow the car to cool (overnight perhaps), and then open the expansion tank cap again. Is there a woosh of high pressure being released? Anything more than a breif low pressure replease is not good. Also check the top hose again for air?
You can try it, but I doubt it'll cure it. Remember to bleed the system up after fitment.
We'll be there in our usual place, next to the green toilet block!  PM with the parts you'd like, and I'll ensure I've got the parts for you, with forum prices too.  |
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2nd May 2011 5:29pm |
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| vulcanfreak Member Since: 05 Sep 2010 Location: suffolk Posts: 77 
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just my tuppence worth
if the impact sensor on the bulkhead is faulty or bad connection this will cut power instantly AND the temp guage will go straight into the red Kev |
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2nd May 2011 7:20pm |
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| Alive Tuning Member Since: 01 Mar 2010 Location: Louth Posts: 609
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But if this happened, the engine management would cut the engine, and the hazards would flash. |
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2nd May 2011 7:32pm |
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| DBMG Member Since: 04 Mar 2011 Location: NE England Posts: 3 
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Found this on another forum:
"Td5 Not Starting/Intermittent Cut-Out The information below was supplied by Saif Al-Noaimi. Recently I ran into a problem with my 2001 Defender 90 Td5 not starting and intermittently dying on me on the highway. I sent the car to the dealer 4 times and first 3 times they were clueless. The 4th time they replaced the ECU wiring harness because they feared it was the oil in the ECU problem. Thankfully the car was still under warranty. But 2 months after that was done (car is now out of warranty) it died on me again. I posted in the Land Rover Addicts Forum my problem and amazingly it turned out to be the relays under my passenger seat were just loose! Apparently they are saying this is a common problem so I thought it might be useful to others to include it in the KB. |
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3rd Aug 2011 10:15pm |
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| AndrewS Member Since: 10 Apr 2007 Location: Hereford Posts: 3707 
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I reckon its
The maf air flow sensor located on the intake side of the air filter box. Easy fix. The sensor gives a false reading that fooks the intake air flow that then results in increased engine temp. 130's have feeling's as well you know  |
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3rd Aug 2011 10:25pm |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5648 
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I have had this on mine, but only when pushed hard, very hard, after hours of motorway @ 75mph, then up big hills on motorways in spain @ 35 degrees.
It is not an over heat issue, the reactions that needle makes are sudden, and not progressive, you can turn engine off back on during the low power and get the power straight back. The harder you push the more you get it. Back off a bit and it is ok. I later after experiencing it had my exhaust manifold warp (it was warped during this problem, but unnoticed) pulling studs from cylinder head. I have removed cleaned, all relays under drivers seat, run an extra earth to ecu panel. Since doing these I have not had the problem return. Having dealt with Gary @ Alive recently, he did say that the remap that I had would give me VERY high exhaust gas temps, so he remapped. I do think that is a sensor failing possibly due to the exhaust manifold allowing very hot gases out, when it was warped. Andy |
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4th Aug 2011 6:44am |
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| Laurie Member Since: 22 Feb 2008 Location: Sussex, England Posts: 2897  
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Happens to me occasionally when towing the caravan.
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4th Aug 2011 8:14am |
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| wslr Member Since: 18 Jul 2010 Location: Wellington, Somerset Posts: 581
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I've seen it with the main wiring to the engine ECU under the seat. Sometimes it is pulled tight and gets damaged internally.
Leave the car running at idle and fiddle with the wires under the seat. Moving them may cause the vehicle to stop running or misfire for a moment. |
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18th Sep 2011 10:48am |
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