Home > In Car Electronics > Making up Anderson connectors |
|
|
RoddyK05 Member Since: 08 Apr 2015 Location: Inverclyde Posts: 633 |
When I was on the tools we had various crimping tools. The best was a hydraulically assisted hand operated type, but came with a hefty price tag. I had a huge amount of leads to make up one time for a capacitor bank I was installing, my chargehand actually told me not to bother with the big crimper as it would take an age. He had me do it “the old fashioned way” which as described in other posts involved a large hammer and the edge of a bit of unistrut which was bolted to the floor. Strip the insulation, put the crimp on, hold the cable with the crimp on the edge of the uni’ and skelp it hard with the big hammer. It lasted donkeys years until the factory was eventually pulled down.
In saying this, I too will be fitting an Anderson socket for jump leads and I will probably take the easy route and purchase a set already made up. I believe Leeds can supply such a set up and this is probably what I’ll do. |
||
24th Feb 2018 9:22pm |
|
excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5843 |
I use a hydraulic crimp(well borrow on one of a mate) i still have the crimping tool and if you was closer I would do it for you. Have done a few 50amp Anderson ones. 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
||
24th Feb 2018 9:27pm |
|
ChrisCM Member Since: 10 Jun 2013 Location: Cornwall uk Posts: 572 |
When I did my first set of 175A connectors for a jump start connector I used the molten solder method but as I later had several sets to do for my and my son’s winch wiring and connectors I bought a cheap hydraulic crimper on e-bay and it’s worked very well on the Anderson connectors and other crimped connectors. 2010 Defender 110 Station Wagon, Santorini Black.
|
||
24th Feb 2018 11:22pm |
|
blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17383 |
Shoving a cold wire into a connector filled with molten solder will not produce a good joint, I'm afraid. Both the wire and the terminal need to be tinned first and then hotter than the melting point of the solder to avoid a "dry joint" and pass any sort of industry QA test.
Last edited by blackwolf on 28th Feb 2018 6:54pm. Edited 1 time in total |
||
25th Feb 2018 8:55am |
|
miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1763 |
Also not a fan of soldering. Has to be done right (ie hot) to get a good connection, and even if done well, it will make the cable go rigid due to the solder, which can eventually lead to stress fractures with vibration and movement.
Crimping is far better, even the cheap eBay hydraulic hex crimpers work well enough if used carefully |
||
25th Feb 2018 10:40am |
|
Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4209 |
Thanks for the input. I’ve ordered a Green Box Lighting Power Pack and the chap there I s going to make the lead for me. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
|
||
28th Feb 2018 6:06pm |
|
Greyman110 Member Since: 29 Sep 2017 Location: London Posts: 327 |
While looking for a way to access the battery terminals without having to take the seat base off I came across this thread.
What I would like to do is to have access to a point where I would be able to attach jump leads, compressor etc without having to change everything to different connectors. My idea would be separate Anderson connectors to each terminal, then a plug for each that would have a solid exposed metal bit that I could clamp on to. Once finished I could then disconnect the metal connectors and it would all be safe. Question is: Is this possible? Is there a better way? Is there a kit I can buy? As you've probably guessed, electrics aren't a strong point Thanks |
||
3rd May 2018 11:29am |
|
LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324 |
That sounds lethal
Whilst more involved, you'd be better off with an Anderson connector from the battery and then a series of adapter leads with the Anderson on one end and whatever you need to connect your individual kit at the other. No exposed bits of live metal or clamps required. Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia Last edited by LandRoverAnorak on 3rd May 2018 12:15pm. Edited 1 time in total |
||
3rd May 2018 11:34am |
|
Greyman110 Member Since: 29 Sep 2017 Location: London Posts: 327 |
Thanks for that.
I've spent the last 10 min looking at all the different connectors and all I've come up with so far is that theres a lot of different connectors! |
||
3rd May 2018 11:51am |
|
miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1763 |
Just chop the ends of whatever you want to connect there, and fit it with an Anderson surely. Much better connection than sprung hand clamps.
If you ever need to use them on a different vehicle, you will already have an Anderson-clamp cable in the form of your jump leads |
||
3rd May 2018 12:09pm |
|
|
All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis