 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Under bonnet soundproofing |
 
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| BogMonster Member Since: 05 Feb 2008 Location: Stanley Posts: 400   
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Assuming it's the same as the standard bonnet insulation, you just need about a dozen rivets and some repair washers about 1-1.5" in diameter with small holes in the centre to match the rivets. I retrofitted insulation to my 2006 300Tdi and it does make a difference. Not 100% sure if it will fit a Td5 but I suppose so.
Easiest thing to do is take the bonnet off and lay it upside down either on grass or something soft like a blanket, put the insulation in place and then you can see where to drill the holes to match where the holes in the insulation are. Not a hard job, all you need is a drill and a pop-riveter. Obviously you need to drill the holes in the bonnet stiffeners with a bit of care, and make sure you don't go right out through! --- 2006 Defender 110 SW 300Tdi • 2011 Ford Ranger XLT crewcab • 2015 Defender 110 Station Wagon Utility TDCi |
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17th Feb 2018 8:42pm |
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| Lotus_esprit_s1 Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Uk Posts: 201 |
Does the ROW 1998 onwards 300tdi have the all alloy td5 type bonnet? Always assumed that it does; if so what do they do about the expansion tank as the 300tdi tank fouls the td5 bonnet.
I bought some silent coat hood buffler for my td5 bonnet but haven’t had a dry day for ages to fit it! |
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17th Feb 2018 10:20pm |
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| Grouse Member Since: 16 Apr 2012 Location: on the hill Posts: 520 |
Just fitted one to mine - I used 30mm fir tree trim clips bought off eBay as they are removable and don't crush the sound insulation. I wanted to be able to remove to able to keep an eye on the bonnet stiffeners in case they needed re waxoiling
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18th Feb 2018 8:17am |
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| Mike c Member Since: 11 Aug 2017 Location: Maldon, Essex Posts: 928  
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Thanks for the replies, so basically, just need to get some clips and should be relatively easy to fit
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18th Feb 2018 9:20am |
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| bankz5152 Member Since: 02 Feb 2017 Location: South London/North Kent Posts: 2164 
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I wouldnt bother. Its crap.
First touch of mud/water and it soaks it all up and falls down. Best bet is use dynamat & closed cell foam. I did mine with LizardSkin and diy closed cell foam backed with thick foil. High temp heavy duty spray glue to hold it in place. Then a stip of 15mm neoprene around the edges.  Click image to enlarge |
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18th Feb 2018 12:29pm |
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| Grouse Member Since: 16 Apr 2012 Location: on the hill Posts: 520 |
They Can't be that crap - I've had one of the original LR bonnet sound proofing last 25 years on a Range Rover Classic - 1993 K reg and the quality of the new Defender Bearmach replacements is better so should last at least as well - assuming you don't direct a pressure washer against it
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18th Feb 2018 2:05pm |
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| Mike c Member Since: 11 Aug 2017 Location: Maldon, Essex Posts: 928
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I like to stick with a factory finish so will go for the bearmach option, also my Defender does not do any heavy off roading so should be fine with standard
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18th Feb 2018 3:22pm |
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| BogMonster Member Since: 05 Feb 2008 Location: Stanley Posts: 400
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Mine's been on there for ten years with no issues. Pressure washing them kills them, but otherwise I'd guess they have to be submerged to absorb any amount of water so it depends what you do with your vehicle but for 'normal' use I would not expect any issues.
I don't think I had ever noticed any difference in the bonnets between Td5 and Tdi but there aren't many Td5s here, people quickly went back to the 300Tdi when Land Rover made them available again. Certainly no issues with the tank, which is on the RH side of the engine bay where it always was in a 300 (although of course with the white tank in later vehicles). --- 2006 Defender 110 SW 300Tdi • 2011 Ford Ranger XLT crewcab • 2015 Defender 110 Station Wagon Utility TDCi |
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19th Feb 2018 8:33am |
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