 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Rear hub removal |
 
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| williamthedog Member Since: 29 Dec 2012 Location: south wales Posts: 3441  
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If you unclip the metal brake pipe from the clips on the axle you'll be fine
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7th Feb 2018 6:17am |
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| pannawonica Member Since: 21 Nov 2010 Location: Clackline Western Australia Posts: 568 
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Thanks, that’s what I thought however wanted to be sure and hear from someone’s experience!
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7th Feb 2018 7:49am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17475  
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Yes, as WTD says, unclip the brake pipe, carefully move the caliper out of the way, then tie the caliper up on a suitable hangar. I usually insert a flat steel bar between the top of the chassis rail and the bottom of the rear tub to hang the caliper from.
As long as you are fairly careful not to bend the brake pipe you'll have no problems. |
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7th Feb 2018 8:51am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324 
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Can confirm for thrice that it can be done. So much better than bleeding them again!
But yes, it's borderline so be careful not to bend them too far. If I recall I actually undid the t-junction on top of the axle after the flex section to give me a bit of left and right play too. Tied them up with accessory cord. Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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7th Feb 2018 10:30am |
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| pannawonica Member Since: 21 Nov 2010 Location: Clackline Western Australia Posts: 568
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Just checked the hubs no detectable play, being a 2011 with 95KKms bit of easy preventable maintenance wont be amiss! Just done my 2ton trailer 5years old grease seals very ordinary. So new corteco seals going in on arrival from Uk. Appreciate your words of wisdom as ever!
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7th Feb 2018 11:19am |
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| mrwoo Member Since: 03 Jan 2008 Location: Cheshire Posts: 286 
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Hi All
I thought I would share my rear hub removal woes for your entertainment and advice. So, I needed to replace my rear half shafts and all was going well, I successfully replaced the near side then went about the drivers side. This is where my life took a turn for the worse & I snapped one of the bolts holding the flange to the hub 
I was able to still replace the end flange and insert the half shaft but I needed to remove the snapped bolt in the hub, I tried everything, heat, removal tool etc but to no avail so I went about removing the hub to see if I could get at the bolt from the back, you cant... Now I'm used to a hub on other models where there is a locking nut and washer but at some point in Land Rover's infinite Wisdom they decided to replace this with a one nut that is locked/squashed down against the stub axle to hold it in place. Now clearly a nut where you bang down a threaded side to it is open to becoming damaged when chiselling open like you would with the locking washer. So I opened the nut up and went about undoing it with a 52mm socket and break bar. This is where the knackerd nut munched it's way through the stub axle threads
So I now have a hub with a bolt I cant get out and a threaded stub axle. I've just replaced new parts but I want to know if there is a method for removing the hub nut without the risk of damaging the thread on the stub axle? For ref the hub nut is part number RFD100000. 1964 Series IIA SWB Truck Cab - gone
1981 Series III SWB Hardtop - gone 1982 Series III SWB Hardtop - gone 1997 300Tdi Defender 90 Hardtop - gone 1983 Series III SWB Station Wagon - gone 1979 Series III SWB Station Wagon - gone 2007 90 CSW - gone 2010 USW XS - gone 2010 110 USW - gone 1959 Series II Truck Cab 1984 Series III CSW 2004 TD5 90 CSW |
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14th Jun 2021 10:31am |
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