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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2655

Scotland 
blackwolf wrote:
The very early Series 1 80" vehicles had taper roller bearing top and bottom and, I should imagine, were extremely prone to this, no doubt the reason for the introduction of the cone damper.


Just like all Defenders built after approx. 1994 then. Railko bushes finished at the end of the 200Tdi run.
Post #500069 3rd Feb 2016 8:21pm
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philbert



Member Since: 18 Sep 2015
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 44

Scotland 
That's exactly what my 110 does. Changed and checked everything except the swivel preload. guess that's next!
Post #600044 8th Feb 2017 9:41am
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Pilgrimmick



Member Since: 16 Nov 2015
Location: Highlands
Posts: 582

United Kingdom 
I had a very similar problem that was annoyingly difficult to trace. In the end it was the pan hard rod bushes loose. I had recently refurbished the front axle and re-fitted it with new bushes, I thought they were tight, but on checking there was still some play. A quick attack with the scanners and fixed! 80" 1948
Lightweight V8
Bowler Tomcat
130 Station wagon
90 300tdi
(Santana PS10 pick up)
Range Rover L322 (Ful fat)
Post #600049 8th Feb 2017 10:20am
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Okan



Member Since: 17 Oct 2016
Location: Geneva
Posts: 138

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hi!

Thanks for your post with video! I have got exactly the same problem for few months on my 2.4 puma 110. Terrible steering wooble in the same range of speed. When you are reducing the speed from 100km to 80km.

First time it appeared I was using old 235 85 16 nokian LT1 on 16x7 modulars. I was thinking that my 6 years old tyres were deformed and it was time to change them. After that I used for summer new 285 75 16 TOYO open country M/T on 16x8 modulars and then no more wooble at all. This winter I bought new nokian LT2 and replaced my old LT1 on my 16x7 modulars and now terrible Wooble like in your video. I was thinking that tyre balance was the cause. But I balanced 3 times in different places and same result each time so it was probably not tyres. I was thinking about deformed wheel but mechanics tell me that deformed wheel should be impossible to balance correctly with the machine and all wheel were balanced correctly near from 0 . When I put back my 285 Toyo just a small wooble in different speed range. Now it totaly disappeared. So very strange situation. Better with larger tyres and worst with stock size tyres.

I checked the steering damper and it looks good. Checked ball joint steering and looks fine too. And checked the sleeves play. I lifted the the vehicule and checked it. No play left right and no play on the top and under.

Finaly I checked my panhard rod bushes and they were destroyed because they are yellow britpart polybuhes coming with britpart adjustable panhard rod. This part is honnestly crap. I just disassembled it and installed a new tough dog adjustable panhard with good bushes. I will test it to see the difference. Next sted is to put back my nokian LT2 to see if wooble does persist.

If yes in which direction could I look in for to fix this wooble?

Best regards
Post #683417 1st Feb 2018 2:23pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1845

 
I too had a 'death wobble' issue... wouldn't notice it on a smooth road surface, but if I hit a bump at anything over 50mph... it was properly frightening.

I checked the wheel balancing, swivel preload etc, but in the end my solution was to fit castor corrected swivel balls, and castor-corrected radius arms. Sorted it out completely.

I went from a death grip steering - just in case I hit a bump - to being able to drive comfortably with my hand just resting on the wheel. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #683423 1st Feb 2018 2:33pm
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Okan



Member Since: 17 Oct 2016
Location: Geneva
Posts: 138

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hi!

My setup is heavy loaded 110 2.4 puma. with +2in dobinson HD springs and +2 profender adjustable shocks. I allready have the 3 degrees castor corrected radius arms but what is castor corrected swivel balls? Never heard about it...

Regards
Post #683427 1st Feb 2018 2:39pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1845

 
Hi Okan,

Try this link - probably explains it better than I can: http://www.paddockspares.com/castor-correc...-1998.html

I wouldn't say my car was 'heavily-loaded' - just a standard 300Tdi. At the time, it wasn't long after I'd had the chassis changed. I was never really happy with that chassis, and I wondered whether something had changed in the steering geometry - there had never been a problem before.

In any event, I tried all the other stuff, and then went for these. Problem went away. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #683432 1st Feb 2018 2:58pm
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