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and getting bit crazed and noisy.So am thinking of what replacements, but its not easy!
| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2693  
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Tubes belong in the past, no reason not to run tubeless these days. 7.50 or 235 is a matter of taste, either works fine for general use. I like 235/85/R16 myself.
You definitely don’t need longer studs for genuine Wolf/HD wheels. My suggestion would be a set of either tubeless 5.5 steels with 7.50 Michelin Lattitudes on, or a set of tubeless Wolf/HD 6.5 steels with a 235 tyre of your choice - I’d say BFG AT KO2 is the best bet. |
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21st Jan 2018 2:58pm |
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| russd86 Member Since: 21 Jan 2018 Location: Lancashire Posts: 20  
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im not sure why you want tubes as everything modern manages fine without them, my local tyre shop hates them.
if your sticking with the same size so the chains fit etc then cabmasters who are near us are good and the ires good as well avons last forever but are an older design Michelin at circa 150 new and were an oe tire for ages for lr i would sell the big rims and then you have vary little cost to change onto new tyres. i have to say i like the look of the bigger 235 but it does raise the ride height a touch |
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21st Jan 2018 3:25pm |
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| Devon-Rover Member Since: 22 Jan 2015 Location: South Devon Posts: 923 
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My crystal ball isn't working all that well so predicting 10 years down the line is a little hard.
There is enough vehicles using the 'older' 7.50 to keep the demand for these tyre sizes that is how it'll run. As soon as production demand falls 99% of manufactures will stop production and possibly they might be taken on by a specialist on a limited run e.g. the Avon traction Mileage So could you buy a 7.50 in 10+ years? I would say yes, the choice might be less but not impossible. A mental count gives about 8 brands available today without getting too obscure a brand name, they are a combo of Crossply and Offroad biased sizes with the odd road one for trailers etc. Now.. Asking for 7.50 in a tube type is getting rare the Rangemaster and SAG radial are two that come to mind and I struggle to think of more, so maybe future supply could be a problem. Right the original one ton rims are tube type so you are stuck using tubes to retain safe tyre location. This ties you to either using a tubed tyre and the occasional puncture as it rubs or a tube in a tubeless tyre and accept more frequent punctures as the tyres inner ribbing rubs the tube. ... Or you go tubeless tyre and swap rims too... (FYI there is the Tube tyre on tubeless rim but: They might go down slowly over time due to less refined bead as it hasn't be designed to seal and the jury is out on the safety of bead location on the tubed rims bead. It is up to you. My IIA SWB when rebuilt will go on Later tubeless 5.5 defender steels and Rangemaster tyres but it is my choice and responsibility) The Disco steel .. The later standard 5.5 wide welded rim .. Or the 6.5 wide 'Wolf' Rim. There could be the Naka tubeless 'one ton' but they are A) out of stock B) 8 inch wide and on 7.50 it'll look daft. To cut to the chase IMHO choose a rim from the above that is tubeless and go for tubeless tyres. If you want low profile then the Lattitude cross is your answer as a road tyre that is A) 7.50 and B) Road / AT biased. the rest MT or crossply. Going to 235/85 is a slight increase in height on your bonnet. Your chains might have enough adjustment in width as many are designed to be slightly universal. and you future proof your choice in size AND different tread patterns should your situations change. Maybe borrow one to see if you can still see alright with it bonnet mounted. The Lattitude is an ok tyre it wears well and grip is good as an AT tyre (75 road 25 off) but again if you go 235/85 you get better choice of tread from road to wild to suit your needs. and to finance new rims (235's on a 5.5 rim isn't all that recommended) you can sell the one tons as people seem to want to pay stupid money for them. Ohh and as covered on here the Wolf comes on the standard shorter studs from the factory just using a higher final torque figure. Paddocks are over covering their backs legally. |
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21st Jan 2018 3:58pm |
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| yostumpy Member Since: 01 Aug 2010 Location: n/kent Posts: 327 |
only so that I could still use the 1 ton rims that obviously need tubes. |
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21st Jan 2018 4:59pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1852 
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FWIW,
At one stage I became pretty damn quick at changing wheels - I was getting punctures routinely with tubed tyres and steel wheels. Only on the front. Inside the tyres there were spiral marks - what you might describe as 'rifling' in a gun barrel. These were about 6" apart, and maybe about .5 to 1mm high. They were smooth and rounded, and you wouldn't have thought they would cause a problem, but on one occasion, watching the tyre fitter taking out the inner tube, these marks were really obvious on the inner tube. My thinking was that these marks were very definitely wearing away at the inner tubes and causing punctures. I went for a set of LR alloys, and BFG ATs and I haven't had a single puncture since - and that's over 10 years. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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21st Jan 2018 7:03pm |
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| yostumpy Member Since: 01 Aug 2010 Location: n/kent Posts: 327 |
I think, and have read elsewhere,that as the tyres age, the side walls bbecome more brittle, and the fine strands of wire start to come thro' and 'prick' the tube, so when the tyre comes off, nothing can be found. I wish I could get a tubless 6.5 " std rim.
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21st Jan 2018 8:10pm |
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| yostumpy Member Since: 01 Aug 2010 Location: n/kent Posts: 327 |
ok, been thinking, realistically my only option, to 'future proof' is to buy some wolf tubeless rims, then I can chose 7.50 or 235, or indeed other sizes as well. How do the 'wolfe' type wheels compare with genuine. If std rims can support a fully laden 110, then anything else is overkill really, but are they the same offset etc
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22nd Jan 2018 10:34am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17595 
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If your 1 ton rims really are 1 ton rims (part no 569204) then the "Wolf" steel HD rim has the same offset (20.6mm) and the same width and profile (6.5 J) as your current rims.
Be aware that the Wolf HD rim is available in both tubed (ANR5593) and tubeless (ANR4583) versions. There are non-genuine HD rims on the market, personally I wouldn't touch them with a bargepole and would only ever use genuine rims. |
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22nd Jan 2018 11:45am |
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