![]() | Home > Off Topic > Using jump leads correctly. |
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ian series 1 Member Since: 17 Nov 2014 Location: south Posts: 3127 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
as far as I’m aware, it was just down to keeping any sparks away from the battery?
You will find on most modern vehicles now the battery is out of sight, and you just have the jump terminals in a convenient location. Like you, been jumping cars and trucks for years using the “old fashioned” way :lol But always good if you can keep the sparks to a minimum. ![]() Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered. |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17721 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I believe that the reasoning behind this advice is that the final connection is likely to spark, and that the battery may be gassing, in which case - BOOM! I know many old-school types (myself being one) who did it carefully this way for years without causing an explosion*, but it is undoubtedly safer to make the final connection well away from anything combustible.
I have only once been present when a lead-acid battery has exploded, and it is quite startling. It was an old Volvo-BM wheeled loader which I was starting on a very cold morning, and for some reason I have never quite figured out, there must have been a spark at the battery when I cranked the starter. Fortunately I was standing on the other side of the machine to the battery, because about 60% of the battery simply disappeared, much of it never to be seen again, with other fragments travelling about 30 yards, and of course everything was dripping in sulphuric acid. I shudder to think what would have been the outcome for me if the button on the starter solenoid had been on the same side of the motor as the battery. Ever since then I have been a lot more careful with lead-acid batteries. *Technically I suppose it would actually be a deflagration, but the result would be the same - BOOM! Last edited by blackwolf on 19th Jan 2018 10:03am. Edited 1 time in total |
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discomog Member Since: 09 May 2015 Location: Notts/Lincs Border Posts: 2539 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
After you have connected the positive leads to both batteries you should then connect the negative lead to the other cars battery and then make the final connection to a metal earth on your car. This way it avoids any arcing at the battery which could cause an explosion. Defender 90XS SW
Mini Countryman Cooper S Morgan Plus 8 |
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discomog Member Since: 09 May 2015 Location: Notts/Lincs Border Posts: 2539 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Blackwolf beat me too it. He's obviously faster at typing than me
![]() Mini Countryman Cooper S Morgan Plus 8 |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17721 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
And ian series 1 beat me to it!
However there is at least consensus - we all agree the reason is to reduce the risk of blowing yourself up! |
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Mdm Member Since: 11 Sep 2013 Location: Sunny Lancashire Posts: 1646 ![]() ![]() |
this advice mainly refers to newer vehicles that have specific jump start points.
most modern vehicles have small fuse-links or similar that in the event of a crash disconnect the battery. to prevent fires etc. its as well as the fuel cut off reset button on the bulkhead. if memory serves me its linked to airbag deployment and if the car rolls etc. |
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Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4262 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Thanks all, I shall update my risk assessment, write myself a briefing note and adopt this newfangled approach
![]() On a serious note, given the unusual location of a defender battery, where would one recommend clipping the back cable on a Puma? I guess popping the bonnet and finding something on the engine is best. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS |
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Procta Member Since: 04 Dec 2016 Location: Sunderland Posts: 5274 ![]() ![]() |
from what I watched on a youtube, is that if put the earth on to the engine or gearbox, makes a full blown circuit or something, rather than just battery to battery. Not sure how right that is mind, I have always put battery to battery. Defender TD5 90 ---/--- Peugeot 306 HDI hatch back
In the words of my Good Friend, Gary Forrest 1980 -2025 " we will work something out" |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20749 ![]() ![]() |
This is why the battery has a breather in the first place.
The only reason in my view is to avoid sparks in the battery vicinity but, choose the wrong chassis earth area then you are going to have extremely high resistance. WeWillWin🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Even better is to have an Anderson connector accessible on your Defender. Incidently I had to jump start a neighbours car tonight, so much easier to connect the leads to his battery and then stand by my bumper and plug the Anderson connector in
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HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila Posts: 757 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
If the battery is under the bonnet, it's easy to find a metal bit for the negative (earth) connection, in Defenders however, where do we connect them? Or are we to do direct connections when jumping starting Defenders?
Going the other way around is not a problem though. (Defenders jumpstarting other vehicles) |
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mick Member Since: 08 Feb 2010 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 2109 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
A lot of modern cars like the Discovery 4 have an eco attached to the earth lead and if you attach a charger or external battery it can
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williamthedog Member Since: 29 Dec 2012 Location: south wales Posts: 3441 ![]() ![]() |
If you put a tail lead with a anderson plug on it takes the chance of a explosion away from the battery. Obviously you need a anderson plug on the one end of the jump leads ![]() |
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HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila Posts: 757 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
So that's the safer way to do it then. Thanks, williamthedog.
In the meantime, direct to battery is my only option then? |
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