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but this is actually 
| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10801  
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Many many thanks for taking the time to put your info to a thread of your landy
  1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.
Keeper. Clayton. |
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16th Dec 2017 9:17pm |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10801
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Hi again, i noticed when reading that you listen to your ipod, i to do the same, dont listen to the radio anymore, cant stand all the talking
 i was wondering about the ipod holder you got, any info on it please  many thanks. 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.
Keeper. Clayton. |
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16th Dec 2017 9:22pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1846 
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Hiya - glad you liked the post.
I know exactly what you mean about listening to the radio - I just can't handle the inane chat that goes on - that's why I listen to music. I can't remember off-hand what the ipod thing is. 'Dension Ice link' or something like that. Like most things, it's been there a wee while now. But I'm pretty certain i have the box for it in the cellar, and given tomorrow's forecast I think my plan to tidy up in the garage/cellar is a good one. I'll look out the box and put up a pic. I think it must have a power supply because the ipod charges in the cradle, there's also coax connector thing - you plug the car aerial into it, and the plug the ipod into the radio - basically allows the ipod to transmit on a specific frequency, straight into the radio. You need to tune to a specific, unused frequency and store that. 87.7fm in my case. Apologies if that's like grannies and eggs.. Cheers Donald |
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16th Dec 2017 10:40pm |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10801
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Really enjoyed your post, its great to see how the landy evolves around every day life over the years
many thanks for the info on the ipod holder, that would be great if you could find the box  by looking at the pic is the ipod that you use a ipod classic
No worries about the grannies and eggs  1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.
Keeper. Clayton. |
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16th Dec 2017 10:50pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1846
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Yep. It's an ipad classic - but I think there were various 'adapter' plates that came with the cradle to shim it out for various models. Will dig out the box and post asap. Just looked at your own thread on Millie - the two cars aren't so far apart in age. D |
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16th Dec 2017 10:58pm |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10801
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Its the only ipod that i can fit all my music on, got about 5000 songs on there at the moment i hope i dont fill it up to quickly
Thanks if you do find the box yeah not to far apart with the age, they just keep on going 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.
Keeper. Clayton. |
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16th Dec 2017 11:07pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1846
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So yesterday and today's excitement was fitting the new VisionX Cannon 25s that I bought in the Christmas charity auction.
I am lucky to have a garage to work in - didn't used to - but it's not heated, and it really is too cold to be spending 'quality time' tinkering with the Land Rover. I think that's going to have to do till the thermometer climbs a few degrees. Anyway, this is what i started with - two Hella spots. These are rated for 100w bulbs. I assume I must have had some of those in at some stage, but they've been 55w for a while.  Click image to enlarge I'll maybe post another thread about Tdi vs Td5 chassis lengths, but when re-fitting the Hellas and the A bar after doing the first chassis swap, the gap between the A bar and front grille was really tight - so much so that I needed to cut the grill to fit them. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge And, after not too much swearing.... here's what I've got now. A new grill and the Light Cannons. I think they look good - a lot smaller and even 'discreet' looking. I now need to add re-painting the headlight surrounds to the 'to do' list..... Click image to enlarge The loom supplied with the lights was pretty good. I altered it slightly to fit with my existing switch, so the lights are optional 'on/off' but only come on with the main beam. Click image to enlarge I'm not sure this is the 'last word' on the location for the relays and loom. If I go for a whole electrical accessory installation in the battery box under the passenger seat, I'll probably relocate some of this. Here's the sequence. First, the SVX crystals, using nightbreaker bulbs, and the Landreiziger loom, so powered straight off the alternator. This is dipped beam: Click image to enlarge Then the main headlights on full beam; Click image to enlarge Finally the 'full Bhoona', headlights and Light Cannons. I think I might need to adjust the beams up a little, but overall I'm very happy with this. Click image to enlarge I think the spots are worth the effort, but I also think that I should have researched the voltage available from the original loom much earlier, and gone for the Landreiziger loom/alternator power. That really is a worthwhile job all by itself. I might still get an LED light bar on the roof - better light into holes and dips in the road. But that'll have to wait for a bit. While I was tinkering about I made a cushion for the 'barebox' cubby. Templates, and then the finished item. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge ... also managed to find a handy spot for my Optimill steering boss lock. The cushion itself is c  p! There's more to this upholstery malarkey than meets the eye. So I decided that what I'd meant to do all along was make a working prototype.. If, after a few months, I've got the thickness and outlines right, I'll get a 'proper' one made up by an upholsterer in town. Even in the meantime it's more comfy for the ageing elbows.
Next.... some seat risers.... Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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29th Dec 2017 6:32pm |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10801
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Great bit of work on the lights
i just keep my optimill steering boss lock in the stuff it came in and fits nice and secure behind the middle seat 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.
Keeper. Clayton. |
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29th Dec 2017 10:29pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1846
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A few bits and pieces to report from the last week or so:
First was this job - it casts a long shadow! Click image to enlarge It's the clutch pedal spring. I read someone else on here saying that springs are the Devil's work... and I tend to agree, I envision swearing, sweating, burst and gouged fingers... all that kind of stuff. So I'd been putting this off for easily 2 or 3 years. The spring was kicking about the place bugging me, but I never got round to it. As a Tdi, it would have had this as standard. But when I did the bulkhead job I never really felt the need for it. It always kind of worried me that I might occasionally be resting my foot on the pedal and no spring = slight clutch engagement = some wear. So, after reading on here the smart way to do the job: fit spring to rear of pedal first; jam pedal against bulkhead with handy piece of wood; engage spring into bushes in bulkhead. I still didn't expect it to be that easy - but it was no bother. Has it made a difference? Minor maybe, but it's a peace of mind thing. One more job off the list. Next, was some seat risers. I got these off ebay. £35. No fixings or instructions -but it's not rocket science. On my car, because two of the captive nuts have gone from underneath the seat box, it needed the cubby box lifting off - but that was a good opportunity to tighten up the X-eng handbrake. Another one I'd been putting off for years. Click image to enlarge Have the risers made a difference? I can definitely feel the difference - easier on the legs, but I'll need to get used to it. I feel like I'm sitting a lot higher into the cab, and maybe that I don't have the same view as I used to. Around here, lots of the view is upwards! Finally, I installed a 'slickshift' and the new gearbox turret I got from Paul on here. Started it about 4.30pm yesterday, finished the install by about 5.30pm. Simpler and more straightforward than I expected. I was interested in the slickshift on principle, but partly also because I'd lost the spring assistance centering the stick in the 3rd and 4th position. I assumed it was the bias springs that had broken.... but this is what I found. Click image to enlarge Is this a common thing to happen? The bias spring itself was fine, but there was a little wear in the turret slots, so just as well to stick in the new one. Old and new: Click image to enlarge Just about ready to start installing new bits. I had a minor 'moment' when I thought the hex grubscrew holding this cup to the shaft under the turret wasn't going to come off, but I switched to another 5mm allen key and it must have been just marginally larger, so got that off OK. Tidied this up a bit, cleaning the face before fitting up again. Click image to enlarge So when I got it all back together, I adjusted the bias springs as shown on a video I'd watched, and headed off. First test drive was a real disappointment though - really hard to get into fourth. It certainly wasn't an easy movement straight down from 3rd as it had been. Damn. Left it till this morning, read up all the stuff in the workshop manual about adjusting the bias springs, and went through that. Second test drive - still a pig to get into 4th. By this stage i was starting to think I'd have to take it off again, but I went back to the beginning again... The problem was there was so much movement in the stick in third and fourth that it was hard to decide where to start the process from. But, long story short, I eventually got there. It's interesting though - the shift feels much tighter and neater - but the pics don't really show that. This was third to fourth before tackling the job: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge and this is third to fourth afterwards: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge There doesn't appear to be much of a difference in the movement of the stick - but like I said, it really feels better. Maybe the difference is across the gate? Last thing was, I'd bought a new foam pad to go under the double gearstick and HL/DL gaiter. The old one was vaguely intact, so I stuffed that in first, then the new one on top. The gaiter doesn't fit too neatly - needed a tie-wrap to hold it in place - but it goes on. The point of mentioning it is just because I reckon it's made a decent amount of difference to the noise levels inside the car - a wee bonus! Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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13th Jan 2018 6:52pm |
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| familymad Member Since: 13 Dec 2011 Location: Bucks Posts: 3481 
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What a great thread. You should be a YouTube blogger by trade! 1951 80" S1 2.0
1995 110 300TDI 1995 90 300TDI |
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14th Jan 2018 6:38am |
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| Barneyboy Member Since: 19 Nov 2014 Location: Exmoor Posts: 1627 
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Hi great thread,interesting read,I do like that rib as well,and as you commented a proper sports utility vehicle
Paul |
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14th Jan 2018 8:56am |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2656 
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The first galvanised chassis only lasted 14 years?
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14th Jan 2018 10:47am |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1846
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Retro - yeah, not really happy with that chassis in the long run.
I've said elsewhere (maybe not on this thread) that I was never really convinced about it. Not long after it went on I started thinking it was probably a 'Friday afternoon' job. It was definitely shorter at the very front, and caused me issues with spotlight and A bar fitting. Pretty sure this was a R******s chassis (four plates welded to make the legs), presumably because that's what the local independent who did the job could source at the time. Whether it's a genuine one of theirs, or whether they had supply issues and bought something else in, I can't know. It looked fine on delivery. Nice and shiny, with everything in the right place. It was a 'proper' 300Tdi chassis at the time. A mate had a Marsland chassis (two halves welded together with the seams top and bottom) put on about 6 months to a year before mine, and his always looked excellent. His was a Td5 chassis, and maybe that made the difference. A proper job. Mine has had large flakes of zinc come away from it over the years. Too long after the fact to have any comeback on the garage or manufacturer I think. Now it's corroding in around the fuel tank. There would certainly be two or three years left in it, maybe more, but I'm in a position at the moment to make the change and this time I'm going for a Marsland. Perhaps if I wait 3 or 4 years it'll be harder to find the cash. Plus (hopefully this time) there's the peace of mind that it's a longer term job. Even having said all that. Memory says it was about £3k for the job last time round. That works out at £214 a year... not as bad as all that. But this is me putting a brave face on it!
Cheers Paul - a good bit OT in a Landy forum, but it's interesting to note that the boat is also a 1994 model. A red 1994 boat being towed by a red 1994 Land Rover! The boat was useable when I got it, but it had a wide two abreast console - not so handy for diving - and an older Mercury I think. I stripped it down to this: Click image to enlarge and then built it back to this: Click image to enlarge The bottle rack comes out when it's not being used for diving, and a long seat can be bolted in for family use.
Thank you! I'd have to own up to a previous 10 year career in broadcast journalism and PR. That was 20 years ago now (eek!) so I have a bit of experience putting words together. That said, I definitely appreciate the comment. Nice to get that kind of feedback. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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14th Jan 2018 5:52pm |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2656
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Interesting, thanks.
I put a Richards chassis on my 88” eight years ago and it was still good when I sold it a few years back, but it didn’t get a lot of use. There were a few alignment issues putting it back together but I managed to overcome them. I guess all galvanising is subject to poor batches, coupled with the ridiculous amount of road salt used in the highlands means a shorter lifespan in your case I suppose. Painting will help protect it from the salt certainly. I’ve got a Marsland chassis sitting in my workshop about quarter way through being built into a 110 and that’s seems fine so far. But in a few months I’m going to be doing a quick chassis swap on my 90 (was hoping it would last until the 110 was done but alas not) and I’ve ordered a Marsland for that too so I’ll find out then if it’s as good as the price would suggest 
I’d be interested to watch yours come together when you come to do it. |
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14th Jan 2018 8:19pm |
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