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| VeeTee Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Somewhere Posts: 1512  
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I think Anderson connectors is a good choice. A forum sponsor does custom starter leads with Anderson connectors. Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold) 1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold) 1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold) 1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold) 2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold) 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold) MySite |
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16th Jun 2017 4:52pm |
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| Clive Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Littleborough Posts: 467  
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Assuming you're wanting to put in a connection for jump leads or charging, then Anderson connectors are ideal, I've got a 175A one fitted just inside the rear door with a length of 35mm cable directly to the battery positive and a shorter length for the negative bolted to the chassis, I've then got a matching plug on one end of my jump lead cables.
They're not difficult to put together, if you don't have (or have access to) a suitable crimping tool, the wires can be soldered onto the contact pins with a bit of care so as not to melt the cable insulation, once the wires are secured to the contacts they are simply pushed into the housing where they're held by a spring "barb". |
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16th Jun 2017 4:54pm |
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| huffhuff Member Since: 05 May 2016 Location: Home Counties Posts: 379 
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I have aftermarket seats which make the battery access difficult. I fitted my Anderson connector to the front of mine
 Click image to enlarge TD5 Defender 90 Discovery 3 HSE |
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16th Jun 2017 7:17pm |
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| smb Member Since: 15 Jan 2013 Location: Cheshire Posts: 1232 
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Hope this has been done successfully and safely, but has anyone fitted an Anderson on the front(or the rear) and instead of connecting the cables direct to the battery via a mechanical switch, actually done it through a Relay?
I have mine currently connected in the conventional way, but want to get rid of the physical switch and would like to put it through a relay, but not sure whether a 200amp HD Relay would be sufficient. I appreciate it is a bit of an open ended question so assuming a worse case scenario of actually trying to 'start' say another vehicle with a 'dead' battery rather than just giving a low battery a boost. First thought was to use my existing 35mm cable with a 200amp relay with a fuse between relay and battery. What would peeps recommend and should I go for a more robust Albright winch relay plus what rating of fuse would be recommended? An alternative would be to connect the cables to the pos & neg of the winches which would save on the cable and also enable me to switch the power on with the winch relay. |
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13th Dec 2017 11:11am |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2237 
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Mine is on the front and connected through an Albright HD contactor from Goodwinch
Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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13th Dec 2017 12:02pm |
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| VeeTee Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Somewhere Posts: 1512
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I would prefer a manual switch:
1/ If the relay fails, you can have serious fireworks. This is much more unlikely to happen to a manual cut off switch. 2/ If your own battery is dead, and you want to start from the battery of an other car, you can’t operate the relay because of the dead battery... Cheers, Vincent 1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold) 1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold) 1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold) 1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold) 2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold) 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold) MySite |
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13th Dec 2017 12:10pm |
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