 | Home > In Car Electronics > Electrical Drain or Battery Fault - How to source it? |
 
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20506  
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Test for current draw at rest, disconnect suspect devices and or fuses to see what effect it has on the draw.
It's obviously a parasitic load, but depends where. Obviously the alarm and tracker may draw, and should be under 25mA I'd say at a guessimation. A radio maybe a good point to start, anything that has apermanet draw at rest. Also shut off interior lights when testing as well. No Guts, No Glory. 🇬🇧ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ¥ó ®ó §ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ·ó ¬ó ³ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ³ó £ó ´ó ¿ðŸ‡®ðŸ‡ªðŸ‡ºðŸ‡¸â›½ï¸ðŸ›¢ï¸âš™ï¸ðŸ§°ðŸ’ª |
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25th Sep 2017 4:55pm |
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| AMBxx Member Since: 24 Jul 2016 Location: York Posts: 1035 
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What sort of tracker do you have? I have a cheapo £20 thing and that was giving me a low battery warning after just 2 weeks (new battery). I rewired so that it's only charged when the engine is running, problem solved. As the tracker is only a backup, I'm not worried if it does go flat.
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26th Sep 2017 6:34am |
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| Harry.O Member Since: 25 Jul 2014 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 716 
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Thanks chaps
I'll borrow a circuit tester and work my way around the system unplugging bits to see what is causing the issue. Is there a way of DIY testing that the battery is ok? The tracker fitted is a skytag unit, I'd rather not disconnect it whilst abroad since it renders it useless. Normally the 110 is plugged to a charger whilst away for long durations but 10 days seemed a very short time for it to go flat. 2005 Td5 110 Hardtop 1989 300Tdi 90 Soft top 1992 200Tdi 90 Truck cab with Land Cruiser axles |
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26th Sep 2017 11:02am |
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| Sockpuppet Member Since: 17 Sep 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 479
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Start off with a multimeter. Either connect it to the battery inline for measuring amps or get one of the clamp type affairs.
I'd start off measuring the current draw from the main battery terminals. Then test it at each fuse in the main block and see if it adds up the main current draw. |
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26th Sep 2017 11:32am |
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| Harry.O Member Since: 25 Jul 2014 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 716
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I've not got this sorted yet but started prodding things with the multimeter yesterday. Havn't yet had time to go through the whole fuse box but so far I have got these readings of current draw with interior lights switched off and doors closed:
Draw from main positive terminal - immobiliser armed 0.06A Draw from main positive terminal - immobiliser disarmed 0.06A Individual draw from tracker - 0.04A Main positive terminal with tracker disconnected 0.02 - 0.01A The 3 year old battery is 100Ah so working on a loss of 0.06A / hr (x24 hrs) = 1.44Ah per day. To use half it's available charge would be 34 days + and yet I cant get 7 days of standstill from it. Is it worth at this point finding the remaining 0.01/0.02A loss within the system or is that considered as normal ECU/radio draw? Given the relatively low readings for current draw, I'm starting to wonder if the battery is goosed and not holding charge or alternatively the alternator is not providing charge (or a combination of the 2). A 3 hr drive can result in the vehicle being dead 4/5 days later whilst the battery took 72hrs on the C-tek charger to show as fully charged which seems quite a long time compared with other batteries I've charged with it. The vehicle has sat for 4 days since a full charge on the C-tek and this evening battery voltage showed as 12.4V. Starting it at tickover showed as 12.8V and with the heater/LED headlights and LED light bar all running, it dropped back to 12.6V. High revs with everything switch off produced 12.9V maximum which seems far too low. Sorry for the long ramble but can anyone give their thoughts on this? Thanks, Harry 2005 Td5 110 Hardtop 1989 300Tdi 90 Soft top 1992 200Tdi 90 Truck cab with Land Cruiser axles |
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5th Dec 2017 5:20pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20506
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Alternator issue my friend, looks like without looking in detail it's giving you around just 0.6v charging current.
The alternator should be producing a steady 13.8v- 14.6v typically 14.2v) with the motor running. At rest around 12.2v approx. Parasitic current draw sounds well with in range. No Guts, No Glory. 🇬🇧ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ¥ó ®ó §ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ·ó ¬ó ³ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ³ó £ó ´ó ¿ðŸ‡®ðŸ‡ªðŸ‡ºðŸ‡¸â›½ï¸ðŸ›¢ï¸âš™ï¸ðŸ§°ðŸ’ª |
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5th Dec 2017 5:59pm |
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| ChrisCM Member Since: 10 Jun 2013 Location: Cornwall uk Posts: 572 
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That’s definitely too low, you won’t charge a battery with less than 13.8v! Most modern cars (Puma😀) will give over 14v with no load, my Puma normally, according to my Scangauge, runs at about 14.2v. Looks like your alternator/regulator. 2010 Defender 110 Station Wagon, Santorini Black.
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5th Dec 2017 6:04pm |
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| Harry.O Member Since: 25 Jul 2014 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 716
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Thanks for the quick responses Custom90steve and ChrisCM!
Unfortunately that's not a cheap part to replace - circa £220 for a decent brand alternator or £140 for a cheapy. Is there a way to inspect the brushes/windings and test the regulator/rectifier/brushbox which is available on evilbay for £50 or is it a case of a full replacement unit? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFE...SwJ7RYWAAQ Harry 2005 Td5 110 Hardtop 1989 300Tdi 90 Soft top 1992 200Tdi 90 Truck cab with Land Cruiser axles |
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5th Dec 2017 6:45pm |
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| ChrisCM Member Since: 10 Jun 2013 Location: Cornwall uk Posts: 572
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Hi Harry,
Sorry, can’t help there but perhaps you could get it reconditioned? I’m sure a google search would produce a reconditioner nearby, maybe a cheaper option than replacing the regulator only to find it’s the windings. Chris 2010 Defender 110 Station Wagon, Santorini Black. |
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5th Dec 2017 6:50pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20506
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Try asking Thornton breakers, near new take off.
I think, but could be wrong that many are Bosch. But don't quote me on that. No Guts, No Glory. 🇬🇧ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ¥ó ®ó §ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ·ó ¬ó ³ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ³ó £ó ´ó ¿ðŸ‡®ðŸ‡ªðŸ‡ºðŸ‡¸â›½ï¸ðŸ›¢ï¸âš™ï¸ðŸ§°ðŸ’ª |
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5th Dec 2017 7:20pm |
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| Harry.O Member Since: 25 Jul 2014 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 716
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I spoke to a mate that's an LR technician, he said that the recon units are a bit of a gamble and I'd also be without the vehicle for a few days whilst it's being done. Might have considered it at home but I'm currently stuck in France and need the vehicle so will buy a new one. He advised Denso branded so I'll get one of those ordered today.
Whilst looking on the web at how to remove the alternator I stumbled across this link which sounded very similar to my symptoms https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/45754-td5-alternator-diy-rebuild/ Thought it was worth a check before buying a new alternator just in case the white/green wire ignition feed from fuse 12 was broken, shorting somewhere in the bulkhead between F12 and the alternator which would prevent the alternator producing a proper voltage. Having tested it with the multimeter, it's all good but might be of help for someone in the future 2005 Td5 110 Hardtop
1989 300Tdi 90 Soft top 1992 200Tdi 90 Truck cab with Land Cruiser axles |
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8th Dec 2017 11:23am |
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