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AJC

Member Since: 30 Nov 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 1364

Clutch issues R380 in Td5

Before I remove the gearbox, just wondering if anyone can agree with my thinking

From cold, very stiff into all gears. Drags in 1st and clutch biting point very low, pump up the clutch pedal and it pops into gear. Driving along and sometimes gear changes are fine. Some times very diffficult. Double clutching helps.

I’m thinking it sounds like a spring has broke on the cover plate (30k old)

Does anyone agree with this? Thanks

2nd Dec 2017 5:53pm

Retroanaconda

Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2655

I’d rule out the hydraulics first before pulling the box out.

2nd Dec 2017 6:00pm

geobloke

Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

I Agree with Retro on this. check your master, slave and give the system a good flush/bleed.

2nd Dec 2017 6:03pm

dorsetsmith

Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

1+ for hydraulics first before pulling the boxes out.

2nd Dec 2017 6:13pm

AJC

Member Since: 30 Nov 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 1364

Thanks chaps. I’ll do them first. I plan on keeping the old girl so there’s no harm in changing them anyway

2nd Dec 2017 6:20pm

AJC

Member Since: 30 Nov 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 1364

What’s people’s experience with Bearmach ones. Or am I better going for SACS? Thanks

2nd Dec 2017 6:24pm

Phantom

Member Since: 29 Jan 2013
Location: Isle of Wight
Posts: 136

Bearmach is fine, just get their oem spec parts

2nd Dec 2017 8:50pm

4RF RDS

Member Since: 19 Jul 2015
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 940

2000 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Epsom Green

Look for TRW (or lucas, owned by TRW), that is who makes it for Land Rover a bit more expensive but not Land Rover expensive. All the other ones are Chinese and have very poor quakity control. Just my two cents worth. 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam)
2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX)
1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy)
1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood)
1967 MGB GT

Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.
H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956)

2nd Dec 2017 8:55pm

ian series 1

Member Since: 17 Nov 2014
Location: south
Posts: 3127

2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey

I wouldn't go Bearmach on anything like that personally, but it's your choice.

Get genuine, or at least a well known brand.

The few Bearmach parts I've been sent recently (eBay purchases annoyingly stating O.E.M) have been nothing but

and have all been sent back.

Even Britpart have upped their game lately,
I've had some decent quality parts from them recently. 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"

Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered.

2nd Dec 2017 9:09pm

geobloke

Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

If I recall correctly and I may be wrong. There can be quite a difference between brands in terms of the length of the master cylinders threaded bar. Sure there was a post on here about it a while back. The shorter length of threaded bar apparently did not allow the clutch to make proper contact with the fly wheel.

Something to do with the master cylinder on Defenders being originally a Series LR part that never got upgraded (think it is an FRC part number) but later Defenders used a different part number. Might be worth calling LR parts Dept and double checking.

Anyone else remember this being the case?

3rd Dec 2017 11:03am

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