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Chopperone



Member Since: 13 Nov 2016
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 396

United Kingdom 
It's a logic controller.....
You can programme it to do whatever function you want it to do.
For example you could link in an outside thermometer & set it to say 5 deg C . If the temp drops below 5 c it will switch on the heated seats for any time period you wish. It could also activate your hot screen wash to operate & heat water at a given outside temp.
It can sense the ignition being on, the engine running or the engine off.
You can set time parameters & only allow certain operations to occur if certain precautions are in operation.
You can program it to do certain things in a certain order & for a certain period of duration.
I can also link it to a mobile signal or a special tag so that without that being present the vehicle will not start on a multitude of levels for example - no tag = fuel solenoid in operation, lights won't work, but lights could flash on / off & if I had an electric hand brake that could not be operated to release the brakes.
They are used mainly for HGV's , buses etc where a number of operations are required but need to be governed for safety reasons.
For example ; HGV tipper, it can only tip IF the hand brake is on , the engine running, a flashing warning light & sounder working, the vehicle out of gear & the driver sitting in his seat with his seat belt on......
I can't think of enough trick things I would like it to do at the moment.
The ability to just look at it & immediately diagnose a faulty fuse or relay really appeals to me depending on wether a tell tale light is flashing fast or slow alongside each fuse/relay.
Guy May your life be like toilet paper ; long & useful.
Post #593397 15th Jan 2017 10:17pm
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Yannis



Member Since: 02 Feb 2015
Location: Oxfordshire / Milan
Posts: 408

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Corris Grey

Click image to enlarge



Here is my 99p's worth. Just a single 12 fuse Blue Sea under the passenger seat. 6 ignition live, 6 perm live.
Post #593568 16th Jan 2017 6:43pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20359

United Kingdom 
Yannis - Where did you pick up your ignition switched Live supply from? Thumbs Up $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ¥ó ®ó §ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ·ó ¬ó ³ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ³ó £ó ´ó ¿ðŸ‡®ðŸ‡ªðŸ‡ºðŸ‡¸â›½ï¸ðŸ›¢ï¸âš™ï¸ðŸ§°ðŸ’ª
Post #593626 16th Jan 2017 8:40pm
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Yannis



Member Since: 02 Feb 2015
Location: Oxfordshire / Milan
Posts: 408

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Corris Grey
Cigarette socket on the dash to an almighty solenoid in the battery box that attaches the battery to the switched side of the fuse box.

I ran a full loom from the battery box down the chassis to the drivers footwell then up into the right hand side of the dash. 14 cores in the end so every thing can be on its own circuit.



Click image to enlarge



Can just see it here, everything is in conduit up to that point.

P.s it's all nice and neat now...
Post #593651 16th Jan 2017 9:10pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20359

United Kingdom 
That's similar to what I had planned only in the drivers seatbox instead with the OE fuses.
I was hoping there may be a trigger feed in there but I tend to think it's perm 12v so may have to use an 'add a tap' from the lighter socket feed too.

Instead of talking about it I really want to do sone thorough testing, weather has other ideas though. Rolling Eyes $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ¥ó ®ó §ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ·ó ¬ó ³ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ³ó £ó ´ó ¿ðŸ‡®ðŸ‡ªðŸ‡ºðŸ‡¸â›½ï¸ðŸ›¢ï¸âš™ï¸ðŸ§°ðŸ’ª
Post #593663 16th Jan 2017 9:34pm
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Toxic_Avenger



Member Since: 07 Jan 2017
Location: New South Wales
Posts: 6

Australia 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Orkney Grey
Good idea, Yannis.
I ran 7 core trailer wire everywhere I could with the same intention. With fuse boxes stashed everywhere in my 90, and accessory is easily tapped into it, properly.

I was somewhat disillusioned with a 3-lettered Australian 4wd accessory installer's idea of an electrical install. Bundles of zip-tied wires stuffed everywhere. Shocked
Post #593740 17th Jan 2017 6:30am
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Likeomg



Member Since: 29 Jun 2012
Location: Lake District / Newcastle
Posts: 2640

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
You know what would be good...

If a company came out with a full sollution for a defender install, like all the necessary connectors, cable's to just install then all auxillaries would be crimp, plug and play...

What kind of cable will i need to run from the battery to the Bluesea? Would any excess cable from my amp wiring kit (1750 watt) be fine?

I'm thinking ill run 2 boxes, HDP4 and HDP1 amp straight from the battery

one with my LED abar, roof rack LED bar, drl bumper and my LED headlights as i have a landreiziger loom for my JW evo 2's

one for anything else... which i think is nothing currently Shocked
Post #594532 19th Jan 2017 6:39pm
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Likeomg



Member Since: 29 Jun 2012
Location: Lake District / Newcastle
Posts: 2640

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
been in contact with Landreiziger, they are going to put me a kit together and recommend using the Bluesea safetyhub 150 in which this will also cover my Amplifiers, probably overkill as they are already fused but should tidy it all up.
Post #594705 20th Jan 2017 12:29pm
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Toxic_Avenger



Member Since: 07 Jan 2017
Location: New South Wales
Posts: 6

Australia 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Orkney Grey
In my post above, I used the safetyhub 150 for power distribution for some of the higher amp draw devices in jmy 90. It's a good bit of gear.
I ran 25mm2 cable to it straight off the auxillary battery, used 2 of the midi fuses (at 40A each) for the ARB compressor, 1 for the amp (50A fuse, earth for the amp attaches to the negative bus of the safety hub), and 1 100A midi fuse for the rear fuse block.
I'm super impressed with the Blue sea systems safety hub option. It's a good solution for big electrical loads, and distribution to smaller fuse blocks around the vehicle.




If I were to redesign the system, I'd use one of their newer split bus fuse blocks for the sub 25A loads. Will allow you to have 24hr circuits and IGN switched circuits in the one fuse block.



https://www.bluesea.com/products/5032/ST_B...Fuse_Block
Post #594884 20th Jan 2017 11:45pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1841

 
Likeomg wrote:
been in contact with Landreiziger, they are going to put me a kit together and recommend using the Bluesea safetyhub 150 in which this will also cover my Amplifiers, probably overkill as they are already fused but should tidy it all up.


Hi there. How did you get on with the Landreiziger kit? I fitted their headlamp improvement loom rcently and was impressed with the quality. Do you mind me asking a ballpark cost?

I'm fairly new to the forum and hadn't actually realised there was an 'electrical' sub-forum. I posted a thread on the 'general' board about just this issue - fitting a tidier, safer electrical installation to run various accessories. I know I probably could work it all out myself, especially with all the advice/info available on here, but if I can save a lot of time by getting a loom kit made up, then it might be worth looking at.

My car is a 1994 110 300tdi - so there's nothing under the passenger seat but a battery! no handy circuits to tap off.

Cheers
D
Post #666807 25th Nov 2017 11:37am
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davew



Member Since: 02 Jan 2012
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 888

England 1990 Defender 90 V8 Petrol PU Auto Rioja Red
I've fitted both my Defenders with modular systems (from VWP) to provide power from the auxiliary battery. the main feed comes in directly to a 6 way Maxi Fuse block and I distribute the power from there through to the rest of the modules as required.

A 20 way mini fuse module allows me to adjust the fuses for each circuit and I have a mix of micro relays, normal relays and high power relays.

I like this setup because you can choose the modules that suit your needs and wire them up as needed. Each vehicle has a copy of a wiring diagram under the lid of the fuse box cover.



Click image to enlarge


I only use 4 modules on the 90

Click image to enlarge


5 modules on my competition vehicle as it also has to power engine ECU and engine fans, it also has an additional earth bus bar next to the fuse box.

Click image to enlarge
 http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/
Post #666810 25th Nov 2017 12:23pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1841

 
Excellent - thanks for posting those pics. Anything like this helps give me information and ideas.
Post #666869 25th Nov 2017 5:56pm
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Likeomg



Member Since: 29 Jun 2012
Location: Lake District / Newcastle
Posts: 2640

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
My Landreiziger kit was great, they put together a lot of stuff correct crimps, cables connectors grommets etc,


I paid about €180 for everything from there, this included the cable & everything else,

saved me a fair bit of effort sourcing everything
Post #666910 25th Nov 2017 8:52pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1841

 
Thanks - so that was for a five-way installation, if you did all the stuff listed above? Any pics?
Post #666934 25th Nov 2017 11:56pm
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