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| mrd1990 Member Since: 16 Aug 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 600   
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Don't take my word for it, but I believe ECU's need to be programmed with the tolerances of the injectors. I doubt it would be the alarm as the vehicle is starting up in the first place without the alarm going off
Also worth check for any oil in the ECU socket or injector loom socket to rule that out. |
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11th Nov 2017 3:36pm |
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| SteveG Member Since: 29 Nov 2011 Location: Norfolk Posts: 661 
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The easiest thing to do is to pull the configuration off the original ecu, assuming you can access it, and the write the configuration to the replacement ecu. You’ll then need to sync with the 10AS alarm unit.
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11th Nov 2017 4:38pm |
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| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6613  
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Sounds like it's immobilised but someone has bypassed the relay control to make it crank over irrespective of the immob status.
 1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
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11th Nov 2017 5:50pm |
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| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6613
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The ECU needs to be programmed to pair with the 10AS security unit.
1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
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11th Nov 2017 5:51pm |
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| MadTom Member Since: 10 Sep 2013 Location: Olomouc Posts: 628  
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It is correct - TD5 engine ECU need to be paired with the alarm ECU (10AS in Defender, BCU in Disco2).
To test engine with short run, or to "go home from a rain forest or a dessert" you can use any TD5 engine ECU with any TD5 engine. Engine will run, but not optimal. To run the engine you have to pair it with the IMO ecu (in Nanocon it is Learn security code), and set correctly the type of gas pedal (2 way or 3 way - without this, it will inly idle). Without this security code learning, engine will first run for short time, next time it will just crank. This is safety feature against thieves. In case of not cranking engine there is active IMO (10AS or BCU) so you have to use the plip or EKA code to overcome it. Starter is controlled (blocked) by the IMO, not by the engine ECU. Glow and MIL indicators are controlled by engine ECU. When they don't light on with ignition, there is probably problem in the engine ECU - not running main software inside. I have seen this several times - mainly it was because of bad soldering of memory socket in MSB type ecu after chip tunning. In NNN ECU it was made by bad (burnt) resistors between processor and flash memory - the are very low power. Repair was easy, finding the problem not really. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "BlufĂnek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo  |
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12th Nov 2017 6:28am |
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| Trebro Member Since: 28 Jan 2016 Location: Hampshire Posts: 241 
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So in simple terms the original ecu is u/s and any replacement will need programming to the car correct?
Is there any point in sending the old ecu off for repair? If so any suggestions where? |
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12th Nov 2017 6:35am |
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| MadTom Member Since: 10 Sep 2013 Location: Olomouc Posts: 628
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Probably your old ecu it death. New on must be the same type - in case od MSB ECU, or must be remapped for correct map if NNN type. For both you have to pair the IMO, set the gas pedal type and set the injectors codes.
Repair - it is possible, but I live in Czech republic, so the shipping will be a bit higher. I have repaired some MSB type ecus, but because of the price of used MSB ecu there is only little place for repair. With NNN ecu there is more space. This is just because of the price of the work and shipping. And it is not 100%, that it will be successful repair. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "BlufĂnek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo |
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12th Nov 2017 6:45am |
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