 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Rear cross member painting |
 
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| Devon-Rover Member Since: 22 Jan 2015 Location: South Devon Posts: 917   
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Well when I had a crossmember like that then if was a wire brush down coat of Simoniz primer then a few of Simoniz tough black which is a reasonable paint available in Matte or Gloss and is fairly robust but will need a recoat every few years and it is about £7 a can. Keep the internals clean to prevent muck build up and if it does look like remedial work is needed the don't go spraying wax's in there as they have a habit of combusting when having a new crossmember welded on.
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24th Oct 2017 11:27am |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295 
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Hello Djcla...it's your call but you may want to consider swapping over to SS Mudflap Brackets, these may not go with the look you are happy with, but as they are literally in the 'firing line', they will look good (and last) much longer than the 'mist coated' LR Brackets. I made some in our workshop but similar do exist on-line... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/292108215314 DIY SS Brackets...  Click image to enlarge Don't worry about the Etch Primer, as this is principally for non-ferrous Metals, it can help to 'key' into the surface you are working on, and nearly always benefits from a Standard Primer being applied also, prior to the Top Coat. This is a weekends work in truth to get a worthwhile result... Good Luck...  SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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24th Oct 2017 11:44am |
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| Balvaig Member Since: 19 Feb 2016 Location: Fife Posts: 732  
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I used ProXL Etch primer. Instructions say it gives an excellent adhesion direct on to bare metal and has active rust preventing pigments that provide excellent corrosion resistance. Also suitable for use as a welding primer.
It works for me on all sorts of bare metal  |
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24th Oct 2017 12:36pm |
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| Pickles Member Since: 26 May 2013 Location: Melbourne Posts: 3785  
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Wow, that looks pretty neat. Nice looking exhaust,...how long do the dual pipes run for, and do they signal anything special under the bonnet?! Pickles. |
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24th Oct 2017 9:15pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295
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Hello Pickles
Nothing 'special' lurking under the bonnet like an LS3 or even a 'tuned and chipped' 2.4, she is standard. These Twin Tail Pipes are just a SS add-on to an otherwise Standard Exhaust System, (2 into 1 into Silencer) installed as part of a series of mainly cosmetic 'upgrades' to the exterior and interior of mine by its previous owner... what we liked about this 90 was the change from 4 to 6 seats, and the general upgrading and refinishing of the interior, together with the fact that this was a late 2.4, with very low mileage. Personally I wouldn't have made this Exhaust mod', as it's a little 'pimp my ride', even though it's a quality piece of SS Pipework. The plan is to replace (when needed) the whole Exhaust System with probably a Double S (Stainless) Exhaust, and at that point decided whether to retain this feature (with a custom final Silencer and Twin Pipes) or return this to a Single Pipe system (and get a new Mud Flap  )
anyway that's a decision further down the road... Click image to enlarge SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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26th Oct 2017 1:30pm |
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| Keith5 Member Since: 27 May 2016 Location: Scotland Posts: 354 
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Is the common view that RCP and CIO are the best combination for this?
Has anyone used Raptor for the top coat? Assuming you can get it in a rattle can. Thanks Keith |
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19th May 2018 10:06am |
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| Djcla Member Since: 29 Jul 2017 Location: Gloucestershire Posts: 469
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I just did mine with some fertan rust conversation stuff, primer and a cheap rattle can of satin black from motor world.. I think next time I'll use some galv spray as well but its held up ok ..
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19th May 2018 11:53am |
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| Keith5 Member Since: 27 May 2016 Location: Scotland Posts: 354
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Got my buzzweld kit so going to try and get this done in the nice weather.........
What would people recommend for degreasing before applying the primer? Keith |
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24th May 2018 11:21am |
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| LandymanStefan Member Since: 30 Aug 2017 Location: Surrey Posts: 881  
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I recently did mine with corroless which needs the same prep as buzzweld and it says water based deagreaser. I got ambersil degreaser concentrate in a 5litre pot. Put it in a killaspray garden sprayer (usually used for cleaning my motorbike) and degrease away and allow to dry. I've never used any water based degreasers before but having used it a couple of times now you can spray it on and with a soft brush just watch the grease and
 fall off and when it dries it doesn't leave any residue. I was quite impressed. I think they sell it in a pump action bottle as environmentally friendly degreaser but the 750ml pump action is £12 where as 5 litres of concentrate is £25 hence why I got the concentrate. Great for cleaning the engine and gearbox and in fact everything with really. |
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24th May 2018 12:37pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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I rubbed mine down to bright metal on any rusty patches, treated any bits I couldn't get at to rub down with rust converter.
Then I did mine with a couple of coats of Upol Zinc182 primer, followed by a couple of coats of Upol satin black. 2 years later it's still as good as the day I did it. (I scrapped the rusty old Witter towbar and fitted a genuine one) Before Click image to enlarge After Click image to enlarge |
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24th May 2018 12:58pm |
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1628  
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I like Blackfriars QD90 paint- even comes in Land Rover Green.
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24th May 2018 5:29pm |
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| Siwynne Member Since: 04 Nov 2016 Location: West lancs Posts: 583
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Click image to enlarge I used industrial primer and satin black from toolstation. Prepped well with scotchbrite pads and panel wiped. Properly masked to keep all bolt heads looking standard and plate on towball clear. Two unknown defender owners have since asked me how I’ve stopped it rusting from original it looks that â€right†|
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24th May 2018 7:38pm |
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