 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Wheel bearings |
 
|
|
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17475   
|
Your choice, you'll get equal numbers in favour of the one and the other.
In my view, the older configuration is preferable since it is easier to service and maintain. |
||
3rd Oct 2017 11:10am |
|
| gazman Member Since: 17 Aug 2015 Location: Liverpool Posts: 652 
|
I've gone back to the old method on 3 of mine, when the last one starts grumbling I'm going to swap that over too. 2014 - current ..... 2003 defender td5 90 (my car)
2009 - current .... 2005 zx10r |
||
|
3rd Oct 2017 1:08pm |
|
| williamthedog Member Since: 29 Dec 2012 Location: south wales Posts: 3441 
|
Bearings are fine at the moment. That's why I was going to re-grease them or should I just wait till they rumble and swap them over then but I don't want one to fail epically when I'm on a long journey either 🤔
|
||
|
3rd Oct 2017 1:13pm |
|
| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
inspection and re-pack wheel bearings with stack nut and spacer not problem
New stack nuts and hub seals , Gasket - Drive Flange if you are having problems bearing use tinken (NP449291 / NP420308) 2x bearing per hub as used by LR |
||
|
3rd Oct 2017 1:48pm |
|
| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295 
|
Hello williamthedog
I stayed with the Spacer / Single Hub Nut System... Replacement Hub Nuts, Inner and Outer Seals, + Drive Flange Gaskets, and you are set. If you are just re-packing or even replacing 'like of like' Bearings (introducing new OEM 9146 Bearings) then the Spacer used (which has been matched to the tolerance of the main Wheel Hub) can remain unchanged. I did this all round on mine, this year at 25K, and by default you get to check and grease up the Drive Flanges / Shafts also. Lessons Learnt...(advice taken before the job  )
1 Get a good 52mm Socket (I used a long reach Impact Socket) 2 Get a long (strong) Length of Tubing (to fit your Socket Wrench) to 'break' the Hub Nut loose... (it is really... really tight  )
3 Keep the Inner and Outer Bearings in that arrangement when returned to the Wheel Hub 4 Reset (the new) Hub Nut to required Torque Setting to 210 Nm (150 lbf.ft) 5 You wont 'crush' the Bearings as the Spacer prevents this as Nothing has changed... (apart from the grease) 6 There is advice to check the Hub Assembly End Float, with a Dial Gauge and using bracket LRT-99-503, when no End Float is present 'stake' the Hub Nut. I didn't do this I just returned the New Hub Nuts to the correct Torque (borrowing a Torque Wrench to get to 210NM as my 'normal' Wrench doesn't get anywhere near those values) 7 All Bearings Checked at 10 and 100 miles... 
 Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Good Luck... SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
||
|
3rd Oct 2017 2:06pm |
|
| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
The only thing to add is step 3A Hub Nut to required Torque Setting to 25 Nm to start with rotate hub forward and reverse and in and out to make shore bearing are seated
drive mender bolts 65 Nm also see link below for more information https://1drv.ms/b/s!AtZSoWFHDgnGhQoLf-ZCjkI5M0R7 Last edited by dorsetsmith on 3rd Oct 2017 2:58pm. Edited 1 time in total |
||
|
3rd Oct 2017 2:27pm |
|
| williamthedog Member Since: 29 Dec 2012 Location: south wales Posts: 3441
|
Ok cheers for the info
|
||
|
3rd Oct 2017 2:57pm |
|
| tuesdayfox Member Since: 23 Jun 2013 Location: Sydney,OZ Posts: 129 
|
I converted the setup back to the old style two nut system when I replaced the rear rotors
For the ease of road side repair. I inspected the bearings and they are in great shape so I just repack and put them back in. The things I find amazing is, in my case, land rover did not follow their workshop manual when assemble both my rear hubs. I forget the exact specs for the end float but the number doesn't match those in the manual. And I hate that stake nut anyway because my torque wrench only go up to 170NM.....And it required 210 Nm Yes 210 NM Also if you put the old bearings back with the original spacer, it is probably find. However, say, your bearings are gone and you are going to replace them At this point, you will also need to purchase a series of spacers to set the correct end float |
||
|
4th Oct 2017 2:16am |
|
| tuesdayfox Member Since: 23 Jun 2013 Location: Sydney,OZ Posts: 129
|
I converted the setup back to the old style two nut system when I replaced the rear rotors
For the ease of road side repair. I inspected the bearings and they are in great shape so I just repack and put them back in. The things I find amazing is, in my case, land rover did not follow their workshop manual when assemble both my rear hubs. I forget the exact specs for the end float but the number doesn't match those in the manual. And I hate that stake nut anyway because my torque wrench only go up to 170NM.....And it required 210 Nm Yes 210 NM Also if you put the old bearings back with the original spacer, it is probably find. However, say, your bearings are gone and you are going to replace them At this point, you will also need to purchase a series of spacers to set the correct end float |
||
|
4th Oct 2017 2:22am |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17475
|
The stake nut and spacer system is quicker and cheaper and requires less operator skill to build at the axle factory where (I imagine) bespoke and expensive measuring equipment is used to determine the inter-bearing distance and hence identify the appropriate spacer. The hub can then be assembled without further thought by someone with few skills and will be correct.
For the home mechanic the original two nut, no spacer system has clear advantages since it is very easy to assemble correctly with rudimantary skills, doesn't require a stack of difference spacers on hand (or a trip to your local dealer in a three-wheeled vehicle when you find you need one you don't have), doesn't require a sacrifical nut, and, because it doesn't require a large torque wrench (indeed it doesn't require a torque wrench or any special tools other than a suitable inexpensive box spanner at all) becomes a feasible roadside repair. There is no downside to the old system. A further consideration is that since it is not possible to "unstake" the stakenut particularly effectively there is moderate risk of damage to the stub axle threads, which will not happen with the earlier system. In my opinion that change to the later system was done purely for economic reasons (cheaper to build and cheaper to achieve a consistent build quality) and the result is less satisfactory in every other respect - less adjustable, less maintainable, and more expensive to repair. Incidentally I have now twice come across TDCi Defenders which have the original factory hub components and have had no work ever carried out their hubs where there has been excessive play in the wheel bearings, and, on investigation, have found the hub nut to be staked and incapable of movement but less than finger tight. In both cases the bearings were in essentially sound condition, ie not breaking up, there was a spacer in place, so the only fault was that the hub was slack. AS I cannot see any mechanism which would allow this to happen with a correctly assembled hub, and, given that the odds of the only two vehicles mis-assembled both crossing my path must be billions to one against, it makes me wonder how many others left the factory like this. The truly terrifying thing about this is that it means that only the staking on the (otherwise loose) hub nut and the brake disc were holding the wheel and hub on the axle. |
||
|
4th Oct 2017 8:37am |
|
| williamthedog Member Since: 29 Dec 2012 Location: south wales Posts: 3441
|
Thanks for the replies, I've opted to go back to the old style with the 2 lock nuts because of the simplicity of the design
|
||
|
4th Oct 2017 6:49pm |
|
| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8097  
|
2 nuts gets my choice
At least the caliper will hold the hub on, better than a jeep, seen what happens when they break a Shaft! Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
||
|
4th Oct 2017 8:15pm |
|
| Leviathan Member Since: 24 Oct 2015 Location: Staffs Posts: 248
|
Ive just replaced the rear bearings and brake disc on my Puma. On removal there was the normal stake nut but there was no spacer in between the bearings. Not sure what the implications of that are tbh.
Fortunately the bearing kits I've bought contain both a new staked nut and a normal nut, together with the knock over washer so I've reverted to the old method. I'm doing the other side tomorrow and assume the spacer was forgotten if theres one in that side. |
||
|
7th Oct 2017 3:56pm |
|
| DOOFER Member Since: 07 Oct 2012 Location: Suffolk Posts: 412 |
I think i'll be ok, my torque wrench goes up to 1600nm  DON'T PANIC |
||
|
7th Oct 2017 5:04pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2025 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
