 | Home > Wheels & Tyres > Bfg mud terrains... |
 
|
|
|
| JOW240725 Member Since: 04 May 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7905   
|
Jose.Pereira made some interesting comments on tyres here http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic51372....p;start=15 James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641 MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557 Instagram @suffolk_rovers |
||
4th Sep 2017 12:13pm |
|
| Timcat Member Since: 20 Jul 2016 Location: Rugby at the moment Posts: 1025 
|
Thanks for the link James, I'm planning on doing that next year as long as I don't miss the registration date again! Interesting read about tyres & pressures really helpful.
|
||
|
6th Sep 2017 9:27am |
|
| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8021  
|
I currently run 255.85 bfg mts km2 on boost alloys no problem. No spacers.
I took same size to morocco as mts, going again I would take bfg Ats. As prev mentioned pressure and side wall strength are prob more important Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
||
|
6th Sep 2017 3:55pm |
|
| TopQ1967 Member Since: 14 Feb 2012 Location: Veghel Posts: 236  
|
AT's prefered in 235/85/16 or 265/75/16?
Struggling with the same dylemma |
||
|
6th Sep 2017 9:52pm |
|
| AndrewS Member Since: 10 Apr 2007 Location: Hereford Posts: 3707 
|
Agreed  130's have feeling's as well you know  |
||
|
7th Sep 2017 12:00am |
|
| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8580
|
Whilst tyre tread depth is important also extremely import is the AGE of the tyre and the extent of age/UV/salt/thermal related cracking/crazing.
A Defender tyre with 5mm tread left on it could be 7+ years and already done 50,000 plus miles and be suffering from old age and cracking plus higher risk of punctures.. In this case lowering tyre pressure may well increase the risk of punctures. Please carefully look for the AGE of the tyre on the tyre markings and carefully look for cracking between tread blocks and circumferential cracks close to wheel rim and then make a decision. Brendan |
||
|
7th Sep 2017 7:07am |
|
| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20339
|
Don't tyre's often have the manufactured date on the sidewall anyway? $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ¥ó ®ó §ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ·ó ¬ó ³ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ³ó £ó ´ó ¿ðŸ‡®ðŸ‡ªðŸ‡ºðŸ‡¸â›½ï¸ðŸ›¢ï¸âš™ï¸ðŸ§°ðŸ’ª |
||
|
7th Sep 2017 12:55pm |
|
| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8021
|
yes week and year Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
||
|
7th Sep 2017 4:37pm |
|
| Timcat Member Since: 20 Jul 2016 Location: Rugby at the moment Posts: 1025
|
Well back from Morocco & what a fab time, people are so nice enjoyed every minute. Truck needed a rear prop uj half way around apart from that all good apart from a rear rub! The 255/85/16 bfg mtr & 30mm spacers don’t work on the rear with a fully loaded truck.
Any deep potholes & you get a rub on the edge of the rear arches, fronts are fine. Ended up removing the rear spacers & all was fine. Question is how do I get over this? Leave the rear spacers off( did 2500mls with just the front spacers) 2 inch lift? Any thoughts, it’s standart at the the moment but carries some weight as it’s an overlander ( Airtop tent, expedition rack, rear racks ect) Thoughts? |
||
|
19th Nov 2017 10:26am |
|
| Arierep Member Since: 12 Apr 2013 Location: Portugal Posts: 258  
|
Just shave the arches a bit.
Mine needed a good shaving with the 255/85R16 on the -25mm offset rims. You can't really notice they were modified |
||
|
20th Nov 2017 11:10pm |
|
| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769  
|
Take the rear spacers to an engineering place and get a few mill shaved off the back if it's only just catching. Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
||
|
20th Nov 2017 11:14pm |
|
| Arierep Member Since: 12 Apr 2013 Location: Portugal Posts: 258
|
Sorry, but I fail to understand how modifying an already sensitive structural component and then end up with a different front and rear track is preferred to run a few mm off the inside of a pair of plastic wheel arches.
Plus, on an overland vehicle you want every mm of track width you can get |
||
|
20th Nov 2017 11:24pm |
|
| Timcat Member Since: 20 Jul 2016 Location: Rugby at the moment Posts: 1025
|
Thanks for both replys to this, I don’t really want to start messing with suspension lifts ect as everything works as it is & should we have a problem whilst away it can always be fixed ( problems if it’s bespoke suspension)
It only rubs on the near side arch for some reason ( everything loaded equal might be a soft spring) My thoughts at the time we’re, spacers off or let it wear its self down ( the truck it’s self is mint condition even though it’s been well used off road) so would need to shave both rear arches & have them re-painted silver. As for having the spacers taken down, I’ve read somewhere that 25mm is the bare minimum for spacers & I think it’s going to be a bit more than that to clear. |
||
|
21st Nov 2017 7:38am |
|
| JOW240725 Member Since: 04 May 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7905
|
Sorry to go back over things Jose but for clarity are you running spacers with your Wolf rims? TIA James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641 MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557 Instagram @suffolk_rovers |
||
|
21st Nov 2017 9:38am |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
