 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Removing an lt230 from my td5 90 for a ratio change |
 
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| ibexman Member Since: 13 Dec 2008 Location: Essex Posts: 2945  
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Engine crane in front door suitable jacks and chocks underneath preferably two people disconnect hand brake cable ,I would take it to Ashcroft as you have to press on new bearings
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30th Aug 2017 9:16pm |
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| LandymanStefan Member Since: 30 Aug 2017 Location: Surrey Posts: 881  
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Of course I would love to take it to Ashcroft and have them do it all but I can't justify the price for a job I know I'm capable of. I do have access to a hydraulic press at the local garage for the pressing of the bearings. As for a crane unfortunately don't have one, my father and I normally use the winch attached to my fathers garage ceiling but my landy is too tall to get in the garage door
 Hence why I any advice and tips for doing it under the vehicle which I have read is possible. |
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31st Aug 2017 6:58am |
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| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039  
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Support from the top makes it much easier to balance, as the trasfer box has an odd shape and is a bit heavy.
I have a roll cage and used a ratchet strap around that and through the door opening and another ratchet strap to that to lift the transfer box. That way I did it alone without help. my 90 td5  Click image to enlarge Roel 1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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31st Aug 2017 7:29am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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Unbolt the roof and roll it into the garage? Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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31st Aug 2017 7:31am |
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| Whirly90 Member Since: 01 Sep 2016 Location: Ampshire Posts: 405 
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You can do it from underneath, disconnect the linkages, hand brake and props, support the gearbox and transfer box, remove the t-box mount, remove 6 bolts connecting the boxes and remove the t-box. That makes it sound easy but it's a very heavy unit and you will be working in a confined space. I've done the job on my own before but it's really a 2 man job, just be careful.
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31st Aug 2017 7:33am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17387 
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There is a special tool (part number 100-045) which helps when removing the transfer box with a jack, which is a wedge-shaped adaptor that bolts to the bottom cover of the t-box to give a flat level surface to jack on. The special tool is expensive for what it is, and the first time I removed the t-box I used a strong piece of flat wood of a suitable size with a block screwed at one end to make an equivalent. If you do this you can get the jack directly under the COG of the box and the job becomes a doddle.
The t-box isn't excessively heavy - one person can carry it about without difficulty - but it is heavy enough to change your life permanently if it falls on you when removing or refitting, so do be careful. However, it isn't a difficult job to do from underneath, even on your own. Here is a link to the official special tool: https://jlrequipment.service-solutions.com...KU=100-045 The illustration gives a very clear indication of what it does. |
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31st Aug 2017 8:03am |
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| Paulv8 Member Since: 09 Jun 2013 Location: Milton Keynes Posts: 618 
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I bought a 35 quid jack adapter from eBay and used timber spacers to get it to support the tbox. It's an easy job from underneath. Drain the oil first! Remove the centre panel of the seatbox for access and light. Ensure you pull it off straight backwards and don't damage the oil seal by catching it on the gearbox output shaft. Ensure you Mark the propshaft and flanges. You'll need to support the gearbox as well whilst it is off. V8 90...WIP
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31st Aug 2017 8:58am |
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| LandymanStefan Member Since: 30 Aug 2017 Location: Surrey Posts: 881
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Click image to enlarge Thanks for the replies, I will take all your advice into account. I have found the technical drawings for making that tool lrt-99-010 yourself which I think may be worth while to make it easier. I will be calling a couple of steel suppliers up Monday to see how much some steel plate would cost. It might even be worthwhile buying the tool for the £69 it's listed for an re sell it on here once I'm done... |
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2nd Sep 2017 2:58pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17387
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Be aware that it is not easy buying JLR special tools from the official supplier (Bosch) unless you have a trade account.
I had to set up an account in order to do so. |
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2nd Sep 2017 5:02pm |
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| gazman Member Since: 17 Aug 2015 Location: Liverpool Posts: 652 
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my mate did his disco one last week by lowering it down onto his chest. 🤤🤤🤤
he then lifted and put the new one in on his own. 2014 - current ..... 2003 defender td5 90 (my car) 2009 - current .... 2005 zx10r |
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2nd Sep 2017 8:50pm |
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| Litch Member Since: 10 Mar 2013 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 762
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Did mine from underneath just a few weeks ago when I changed from 1.2 to 1.4 and it was no problem.
I had the transfer-box off last year when I changed from R380 to auto (300TDi Ashcroft kit) and did it the conventional way using my engine crane through the drivers-door but this time decided that I wanted to disturb the interior as little as possible so decided to do it from underneath. I made up a simple wooden frame to support the transfer-box and this sat on top of my 3T trolley jack, the only panel I removed was the tunnel to get access to the linkages. I sat the vehicle on axle-stands to give me a few extra inches as I would be working mainly underneath. Remove props & handbrake (X-eng disc in this case), speedo-cable, linkages, drain oil, undo the single mounting and bolts that fit Tbox to Gbox. Support the Tbox using the frame, gently pull back to separate, lower jack and manoeuvre out from under the vehicle. Refitting is simply the reverse of removal, the frame sits the Tbox at the correct angle so as soon as you have the height right then they will just slide together (I did use a couple of un-threaded bolts as guides, I didn't really need them but had them to hand from last time so on they went). Bolt everything up, fill with oil and job done. All in all a simple 1-person job which will be done in time for tea. ONE LIFE, GET IT! |
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3rd Sep 2017 4:03pm |
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| LandymanStefan Member Since: 30 Aug 2017 Location: Surrey Posts: 881
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Bingo... Made a mount that I'll picture later and the rest is as you all mentioned above! Ordered my new gear set and a few other bits ready for the rest of the job! Will keep you all posted.
 All in all it came off fairly easily. I will add I did remove my exhaust and front crossmember for a bit of extra room to move about under there.
Click image to enlarge |
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11th Sep 2017 8:08pm |
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| davew Member Since: 02 Jan 2012 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 888 
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I made up an adaptor for my trolley jack, it replaces the cup on the top of the jack and bolts to the transfer box in 4 places. I've done it in the past without making one up and managed OK but taking the time to make up a bracket saved a LOT of stress and strain.
If you get some M10 threaded bar it can make it easier to locate the box when replacing it. http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/ |
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11th Sep 2017 8:21pm |
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| Litch Member Since: 10 Mar 2013 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 762
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"If you get some M10 threaded bar it can make it easier to locate the box when replacing it."
Threaded bar is a faff as the case can drag on the threads, I used long shank bolts with the heads cut off and it slides along them without effort. ONE LIFE, GET IT! |
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12th Sep 2017 7:58pm |
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