 | Home > Technical > High Level Stop/brake Light help (fixed) |
 
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720   
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put your multimeter with one probe on each of those large metal contacts and have someone put their foot on the brake (with the ignition on) if you get 12v then you should be good to go.
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2nd Aug 2017 1:57pm |
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| Djcla Member Since: 29 Jul 2017 Location: Gloucestershire Posts: 469
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ok thanks i thought the black lead on multimeter was for negitive so which side on my screen would that be?
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2nd Aug 2017 2:26pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17609 
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It doesn't matter for this test, you'll get a reading of +12v if the red lead is on the positive and the black on the negative, or -12V if they are the other way round.
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2nd Aug 2017 2:44pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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It doesn't matter. If you connect it around the wrong way the multimeter will just display the voltage as a minus. So -12v rather than 12v. Either way for this purpose it means the same - there is power to the brake light.
If your multi meter has a continuity test function (most do), then put one lead to an earth on the body and the other to one of the terminals on the screen, when it beeps at you you've found the negative terminal. If you have an old analogue meter, then if it doesn't work one way swap the leads around and try the other. |
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2nd Aug 2017 2:44pm |
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| Djcla Member Since: 29 Jul 2017 Location: Gloucestershire Posts: 469
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Thanks all
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2nd Aug 2017 2:46pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20620
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If you use your black lead of your Multimeter to an earth point other than those contacts.
Set you Multimeter to detect voltage Then ask somone to opperate the brake. You should find around 12v on the positive side and 0v on the negative using your red lead on the Multimeter. Then you've hopefully identified Power and what terminal. If you want to check the earth, no need to use the brake this time do the same as above but set your Multimeter to continuity test, so it beeps when you touch the probes together. Test the terminal you identified as earth and not the live, the reading should be as close to zero as possible and it should beep. If it does nothing there is an earth missing or a poor earth. My guess is both will check out perfect.  TheThunder Rollsπ¬π§πΊπΈ
β½οΈπ’οΈβοΈπ§°πͺ |
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2nd Aug 2017 4:15pm |
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| Djcla Member Since: 29 Jul 2017 Location: Gloucestershire Posts: 469
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Done some tests I get 2.5v to 3v at the light and 12v where the fire connects to glass at the bottom. So im guessing something ain't right maybe that's why the light git removed. Lol.
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2nd Aug 2017 6:48pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20620
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Sounds like a damaged copper track on the glass.
Quite a common issue. A bit more expensive but I'd consider changing the window inc new bonded light in one hit. TheThunder Rollsπ¬π§πΊπΈ
β½οΈπ’οΈβοΈπ§°πͺ |
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2nd Aug 2017 7:21pm |
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| Djcla Member Since: 29 Jul 2017 Location: Gloucestershire Posts: 469
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Got a link to tailgate glass with the light? Also can I assume it's not possible to fix copper track?
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2nd Aug 2017 7:35pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20620
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There are kits to do so but it's hit and miss and I think you'd find it such a pain in the backside it would be easier to replace.
I'd have a chat with Dave at VGS: http://www.vehicleglazingspecialists.com/s...ducts.html Or there is Genuine LR. Whilst you at it you may want to consider tinted or similar but the choices are yours. TheThunder Rollsπ¬π§πΊπΈ
β½οΈπ’οΈβοΈπ§°πͺ |
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2nd Aug 2017 7:48pm |
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| Djcla Member Since: 29 Jul 2017 Location: Gloucestershire Posts: 469
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New rear tailgate glass is an option and tinted be good but then I'd need to get the other windows in the same tint . They seem to come with green tint so no idea if I'd get that matched.
To fix the existing would it not be a case of finding the break and applying copper conductive paint? |
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3rd Aug 2017 5:51pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20620
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You could give it a go.
TheThunder Rollsπ¬π§πΊπΈ
β½οΈπ’οΈβοΈπ§°πͺ |
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3rd Aug 2017 7:06pm |
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| Djcla Member Since: 29 Jul 2017 Location: Gloucestershire Posts: 469
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hi all
revisiting this and was thinking if i run some wire around the edge of the window tucked in behind the seal and connect it to the female spade connector on the bottom right where it come up through the door card , maybe that could work. On the the left side though there is only one connector coming through to the window so its possibly shared with the heated glass does that sound right as on the other side there is 2 connectors? |
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21st Aug 2017 10:25am |
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| Balvaig Member Since: 19 Feb 2016 Location: Fife Posts: 736  
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As you seem keen to fix what you have, then carry out the continuity tests on the metal track starting from where you have 12v. You should then find the break in the track, i.e. where the voltage drops to 2-3v.
I have successfully repaired a rear heated screen using the kit. The repair kits do work and if the gap is small you stand a good chance of a successful repair. |
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21st Aug 2017 10:39am |
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