↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Chassis cleaning
Post Reply  Down to end
Page 1 of 1
Print this entire topic · 
Djcla



Member Since: 29 Jul 2017
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 469

United Kingdom 
Chassis cleaning
Has anyone tried cleaning the inside of their chassis with something like this? Wondering if it worth doing assuming it will drain and dry out again lol

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112484737178
Post #643504 12th Aug 2017 6:49pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1782

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
I used a 6mm nylon tube, reduced with various bits and bodged onto a karcher, jacked the back up as far as possible and kept pouring the water through, even on a 18 month old truck, the dirt that came out was eye opening!

Left it in that attitude for a couple of days, then swapped the karcher for compressed air, another couple of days then dinitrolled inside and out.

hth Keith
Post #643536 12th Aug 2017 9:33pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
LR90XS2011



Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3641

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green
I think the most important thing would be ensuring its well dried out before adding the protection, I was amazed the other day having rushed the washing and drying up few weeks ago to find some pans still wet and that was in a warm kitchen cupboard . DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy
Post #643561 13th Aug 2017 6:59am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
cobra_mark



Member Since: 17 Feb 2015
Location: West Yorks
Posts: 213

United Kingdom 2000 Defender 90 300 Tdi SW Barolo Black
If the chassis was galvanised would you still apply dinitrol internally?
Post #643563 13th Aug 2017 7:07am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
V8GPC



Member Since: 18 Jul 2016
Location: Manchester
Posts: 289

United Kingdom 
galvanised still degrades overtime, so a nice Dinitrol inside would protect it; but that would any make your chassis last forever rather than for 30 years
Post #643598 13th Aug 2017 11:19am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
cobra_mark



Member Since: 17 Feb 2015
Location: West Yorks
Posts: 213

United Kingdom 2000 Defender 90 300 Tdi SW Barolo Black
Which Dinitrol product suites best?
Post #643614 13th Aug 2017 1:00pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20382

United Kingdom 
I went for 3125 in brown internally applied. (You don't see it and allows you to distinguish.)
Applied first due to possible application run off.

4941 in black for undersealing. I treated and rust spot areas with Hammerite Kurust.

Also an idea to stonechip arches before anything, adds a layer of sound proofing and does work.
This is what I did, only used cheaper Autotek Stinechip off eBay.

Thumbs Up $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪
Post #643624 13th Aug 2017 2:08pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
cobra_mark



Member Since: 17 Feb 2015
Location: West Yorks
Posts: 213

United Kingdom 2000 Defender 90 300 Tdi SW Barolo Black
Thanks for the advice will form my winter prep session next month. Smile
Post #643628 13th Aug 2017 2:56pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20382

United Kingdom 
For a 90 you want around 12 cans 6L 500ml each of aerosol of undersealing and 6 cans internal 500ml each 3L with applicator straws

That's with aerosol but if compressor, similar volume.

I used aerosol and had perfect results, but it doesn't unduly matter. Thumbs Up $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪
Post #643629 13th Aug 2017 3:01pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Djcla



Member Since: 29 Jul 2017
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 469

United Kingdom 
so how do you go about treating the chassis internally then is it just a case of spraying through each hole you find? Id been looking at this stuff to do my cross member , or Kurust

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fertan-Rust-Trea...1438.l2649
Post #643799 14th Aug 2017 8:28am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Djcla



Member Since: 29 Jul 2017
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 469

United Kingdom 
LR90XS2011 wrote:
I think the most important thing would be ensuring its well dried out before adding the protection, I was amazed the other day having rushed the washing and drying up few weeks ago to find some pans still wet and that was in a warm kitchen cupboard .


Thats the tricky bit and not sure other than time how you go about that as i dont have a compressed air blower
Post #643800 14th Aug 2017 8:29am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
foxyred



Member Since: 16 Jul 2016
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 227

England 1994 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Montalcino Red
cobra_mark wrote:
If the chassis was galvanised would you still apply dinitrol internally?


I did Very Happy
Post #643962 14th Aug 2017 7:56pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Post Reply
Post Reply  Back to top
Page 1 of 1
All times are GMT

Jump to  
Previous Topic | Next Topic >
Posting Rules
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum



Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
DEFENDER2.NET RSS Feed - All Forums