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| VeeTee Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Somewhere Posts: 1512  
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Dying glow plugs may be? Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold) 1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold) 1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold) 1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold) 2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold) 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold) MySite |
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17th Sep 2015 5:22pm |
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| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039 
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Faulty diesel return valve?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BENlNexvSL8 Roel 1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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17th Sep 2015 6:17pm |
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| Derrickthedefender Member Since: 28 Jan 2014 Location: South Posts: 294  
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Thanks guys, I will look at the fuel filter valve this weekend, failing that, I'll look at the flow plugs
 A Defender... Mans best friend, never judges, trustworthy (most of the time), go anywhere, do anything, looks the business, and mans biggest money pit!!!
Yes the name for my 90 is Derrick! |
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18th Sep 2015 11:49pm |
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| mturri Member Since: 13 Jul 2010 Location: All over Posts: 33  
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1- Low fuel pressure (failing fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator) - install T piece with pressure gauge between high pressure fuel supply ('green' line) and FPR block, should read > 4 bar
2- "Air" in fuel - Actually such thing is quite improbable as fuel system runs at > 4x atmospheric pressure, however leaky injector copper washers can allow cylinder gas to enter fuel gallery causing fuel injectors to starve. This can lead to starting issues (combustion gas migrates up to fuel gallery after turning engine off). Check for more than usual "air purging" activity in your fuel system. Run fuel purge routine a few times prior to cranking. 3- Insufficient battery load - screen voltage while cranking, should not drop below 9.5V, charge battery and iterate. 4- Low compression - unlikely since your starting troubles are every so often. Glow plugs will help accelerate cylinder warm up process and thus more efficient combustion (i.e. emissions) yet contrary to common belief can hardly be blamed for starting issues (can disconnect all glow plugs and my Td5 will start in -20 °C just as happily!) HTH mt |
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19th Sep 2015 12:53am |
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| ADBS65 Member Since: 31 Aug 2015 Location: Wolverhampton Posts: 15 
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Hi and sorry to reboot and old post, but i need some advice, as I have the same problem and am stuck. I have done the injector washers, new injector harness, cleaned red ECU plug, fitted new filter housing and LR air bleed valve. Still won't start hot or cold without long cranking period and sometimes won't start at al. When it does run it is perfect! l. I have pressure tested both my old and replacement fuel pump (not brand new but as good as) I notice that when you turn ignition on and BEFORE I crank the engine the needle shoots straight to 4 bar. Not gradual or smooth, just straight to 4 bar. (same for both pumps) This is taking the pressure from the temp sender apeture. When cranking i get a pressure drop to 1.5 bar fluctuating then to 3 and occasionally 4 bar, same for both pumps.
I then tapped in to the main fuel pipe that enters the FPR. With ignition on the needle goes straight past 7 bar (gauge limit) until the needle hits the stop pin. Best guess maybe 9 bar. Reconnected fuel line and tapped back into temp sender on FPR. Ran a purge and she eventually started. The gauge showed 4 bar +/- 0.5 and maintained this even when i revved the engine. I switched off and it struggled to restart, although warm. When cranking same pressure drop but once running maintains a steady 4 bar. All the Youtube vids related to TD5 fuel pressure show ignition on gauge climbs to 4 bar and no pressure loss when cranking or engine running. Could i be experiencing a voltage drop as starter draws current and pump doesn't get full juice from battery? Or is my FPR knacked? Advice please guys as a lot of head scratching going on here! |
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24th Jun 2017 8:57am |
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| Dieseljock Member Since: 03 Jun 2017 Location: Inverclyde Posts: 31  
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Hi my mates old man had similar issues with his td5, it would crank for ages before it got going, tried various things to no avail, we then randomly tried to bump start it, low and behold it fired within 3 feet or so. Plugged the nanocom in and watched the engine speed when cranking and found it was erratic, watched it agsin whilst bumping it, it was now steady. Turns out the starter was failty and upsetting the engine speed sensor signal, new starter problem solved. Hope this helps
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26th Jul 2017 7:02pm |
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| ADBS65 Member Since: 31 Aug 2015 Location: Wolverhampton Posts: 15
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Hi and thanks for the information. As it happens i have just bought a new crank position sensor and starter motor which i am fitying, in that order, this weekend. I will update if it solves the problem.
Thanks Andy |
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26th Jul 2017 7:10pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443 
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With these symptoms I usually look at the easy bit first, if the fuel pump is pumping up in its usual fashion with no gurgling or strange sounds from the filter or fuel pressure valve then I generally go for the starter motor, often the cheap fix of replacing the solonoid can cure no end of starter faults.
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27th Jul 2017 8:56pm |
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| gazman Member Since: 17 Aug 2015 Location: Liverpool Posts: 652 
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my starter motor caused the same. Only when hot for me though.
The motor was upsetting the cps and as such the motor wouldn't fire 2014 - current ..... 2003 defender td5 90 (my car) 2009 - current .... 2005 zx10r |
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27th Jul 2017 9:33pm |
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| ADBS65 Member Since: 31 Aug 2015 Location: Wolverhampton Posts: 15
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Update Hip Hooray it is finally sorted! Having left it 3 weeks due to holiday it came as no surprise that it wouldn't start. I went with swapping the crank sensor first. The old one was very oily and you couldn't see the sensor tip! However the recess it fits into was clean which surprised me. . The O ring was not present either which probably didn't help. I fitted a new CPS and it started, but still required some cranking. I then changed the starter motor, top bolt a fiddle but got there eventually. She started first turn of the key, with less than a seconds cranking. Switched off left it and tried again after 5 mins, immediately started. No doubt all the other things I have done have contributed to finally sorting this problem, but it certainly looks like the starter was the main culprit.
Thanks everyone for your advice and support. It has took a while but I finally got there in the end. Kind regards Andy |
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29th Jul 2017 4:35pm |
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| mattmadman1990 Member Since: 15 Feb 2017 Location: derbyshire Posts: 21
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Might. Be a long shot but has anyone got a old duff starter that's been having this issue I'd like to have a play with it if anyone has
Cheers |
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6th Aug 2017 10:13pm |
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