 | Home > In Car Electronics > DRL's and battery charging |
 
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324  
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Could you wire the controller via an ignition live so that it's only powered up when the key is turned?
Failing that, a simple switch would be an easy, albeit less elegant solution. Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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1st Aug 2017 9:28am |
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| discomog Member Since: 09 May 2015 Location: Notts/Lincs Border Posts: 2526 
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I use a Ctek charger and have JW Speaker DRL's fitted although like LandRoverAnorak states, I have these wired through the Ignition and therefore does not suffer your problem. It may well be easier to rewire the feed to the DRL's via the Ignition or even the Ignition Auxiliary and thereby avoid a constant feed. Defender 90XS SW
Mini Countryman Cooper S Morgan Plus 8 |
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1st Aug 2017 10:13am |
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| T67M Member Since: 19 Jul 2016 Location: york Posts: 4  
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I have the same problem, so I just pull the DRL fuse out when I put the CTEK charger on. Not elegant, but simple.
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1st Aug 2017 8:34pm |
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| gilarion Member Since: 05 Dec 2013 Location: Wales Posts: 5110  
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I had the same problem and like you are thinking to solve it I cut the battery feed to the control unit and connected the ends to a simple on off switch. So when charging I just cut the power to the DLR’s via the switch. For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at..
http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1 Last edited by gilarion on 2nd Aug 2017 11:46am. Edited 1 time in total |
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2nd Aug 2017 11:35am |
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| gilarion Member Since: 05 Dec 2013 Location: Wales Posts: 5110
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Duplicate post
 For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at..
http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1 |
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2nd Aug 2017 11:37am |
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| JimboD3 Member Since: 09 Apr 2013 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 55 
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Thinking about it, where I've run the +12v feed for the DRL's (battery box), there's a ignition-switched trigger for my split charge relay - now if I can remember where I took that feed from (radio +12v comes to mind........) maybe I can use that to run the DRL's as well - or maybe I'll just go with a switch in the DRL feed.
Jim Td5 110 HD Hardtop.......not quite standard  |
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3rd Aug 2017 7:35am |
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| VeeTee Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Somewhere Posts: 1512 
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I have bought some DRL's + controller some time ago, but did not install them yet because I was thinking how to solve this problem, as I have a solar panel fitted permanently on the roofrack.
Yes, ignition live feed or a switch will solve the problem, but also will introduce a new one: the DRL controller has a 'coming home' function', i.e. it wil stay on some time after you switch the motor off. But if it is connected via a switch or ignition live, you obviously loose this feature... Thoughts, thoughts ...  Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold) 1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold) 1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold) 1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold) 2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold) 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold) MySite |
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3rd Aug 2017 2:00pm |
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| gilarion Member Since: 05 Dec 2013 Location: Wales Posts: 5110
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One of the other reasons I added a switch was because of the coming home feature. The lights were supposed to switch themselves off after few minutes but mine seldom did, I thought at first it was just a faulty controller, so I contacted the supplier (Outbound 4x4) and they kindly sent me out a second unit and after rewiring everything again I still had the same problem.
In the end I put it down to the massive amperage battery that they were connected to, either way the lights would not switch off when the ignition was turned off, so in the end I just fitted a switch inside the cab to turn them off as I did not need the coming home feature as I have security lights fitted to the property. The kit I bought from Outbound 4x4 is expensive at £124.98 but the quality of the lamps and housing is very good and comes with a fitting template to drill the bumper. I have a stainless steel bumper so decided not to drill the large holes myself, so took them to a machine shop that charged me £20.00 to drill the bumper perfectly. The other thing is that the housing has special lugs on them so unless you know how to remove them they are more or less impossible to steal. Defender daytime running light kit designed by Outbound 4x4. Light-Pod allows you to fit DRL's to your Land Rover without the need to replace your bumper. Highly attractive and in keeping with the iconic Defender looks, Light-Pod combines round DRL's with a sleek counter sunk design in either a black or XS style gun metal grey finish. Light-Pod is easily fitted with a click and lock mechanism to any standard Land Rover bumper. http://www.outbound4x4.co.uk/shop/exterior...fender-drl For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at.. http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1 |
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3rd Aug 2017 2:48pm |
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| JimboD3 Member Since: 09 Apr 2013 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 55
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My DRL's are just the standard 'Ring' oblong ones, so only have the optional 'dim when sidelights are on' feature.
I thought I'd found a way around my problem - feed the DRL's off the 'switched' side of the split charge relay (rather than using the relay trigger +12v feed which is possibly not rated high enough), the relay (80A jobby) connects the main +12v alternator feed to the aux battery when the engine is running........but I do also put the CTEK on the aux battery every few weeks to keep it topped up, so I'd have the same problem with the DRL's switching on when the aux battery charging voltage gets up to 14v (or whatever the DRL 'on' trigger voltage is) It does seem like a bog-standard switch is the easiest way forward......... Jim Td5 110 HD Hardtop.......not quite standard |
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3rd Aug 2017 3:55pm |
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