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| Sockpuppet Member Since: 17 Sep 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 479  
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Having done very little to the 110 in the past 3 years of ownership I decided it was time for me to tidy up some jobs that had been bugging me for a while.
Starting with painting the rear cross member. While it wasn't horrific it was starting to bug me.  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge So took all the tow bar off along with the rear step which will be sand blasted. Sanded down the rear cross member to give it a key. I'm forgot to take some photos of the process but it had two coats of RCP and 2 coats of Buzz Weld CIO. I did the underside and also the back edges there it's available. Before painting the cross member any rust was wire brushed and RC800/RC900 from dinitrol was put on it depending on the spot to convert the rust. Having used the two I like the RC900 a lot more as the RC800 dries like PVA glue which for items you'll see isn't great. I've done the tow bar and step the same, will stick a photo of that up when I refit it fully later today. Click image to enlarge Finished result (with newly painted step) - New Rubber pad on order for it as well. Click image to enlarge The bottom bracket looks loose as I was part way through refitting it and hadn't tightened the bolts - it doesn't usually look like that. Next steps are to fit a rear wheel carrier. I got the stainless version from Brendan and have just acid primed it ready for some CIO. I'm not a huge fan of powder coat as I prefer a matt finish so this should match the bumper nicely. |
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29th Jul 2017 3:56am |
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Paul Tash n Barney| Sockpuppet Member Since: 17 Sep 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 479
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Some more progress yesterday. Got the tow bar on the back, slightly hampered by the bolts I removed from the arms extending from the chassis rails being 10.9 grade and the replacements from land rover being 8.8. Quick trip to local fastener place and now all bolts replaces like for like.
Click image to enlarge I also (again lack of photos as I'm rubbish) disassembled the Nak wheel carrier from 4x4Overlander. Sandblasted all the parts to provide a key and then etch primed them. Applied some RCP not for rust prevention but the topcoat doesn't sit well with acid etch so using the RCP as a barrier. Will give them a top coat later and get round to fitting it tomorrow. Still debating whether to drill the cross member. Ideally I should as the kit comes with M10 bolts but they are stainless so thinking if I change for some grade 10.9 bolt and paint I won't need to modify anything. A 10.9 bolt will easily be twice as strong as a stainless bolt. You could in theory suspend a loaded defender from two M6 grade 8.8 bolts - so should be ok. Click image to enlarge |
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30th Jul 2017 12:18pm |
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| Sockpuppet Member Since: 17 Sep 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 479
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Time to ply line the defender properly. I was never satisfied with the way I did it first time round so came back after a few years to do it again.
This is what the finished article looks like. It's 12mm Marine Ply in a Z shape. Covering the sides of the tub and then another piece on the floor. It's a damage free mount, the bottom cargo rail uses the existing holes in the tub and holds the ply in place. You can remove it in 5 mins and never know it's been there. Click image to enlarge The Z shape with re-inforcing bits. Click image to enlarge The bits sit in the step of the tub to keep it rigid, they're doubled up 12mm ply glued and screwed 4 in each. Gives plenty of rigidity. Click image to enlarge These site behind the top most sides (what the cargo rail bolts to) The Large washers are the bolts for the cargo rails. Click image to enlarge The finished installation. The cargo track on the floor also holds to bottom ply down. The sides where the cargo track is are cut at 45 degrees so as you tighten the cargo track into place it firms everything up meaning there is no vibration. Click image to enlarge |
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17th Feb 2018 7:42pm |
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| Sockpuppet Member Since: 17 Sep 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 479
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At the same time I also put some electrics in the back as I was missing them, I will upgrade to a dual battery system soon when funds allow.
Behind the side panel there is a Blue Sea 12 way fuse box. I ran 2 x 16mm cable for feed and earth to the fuse box from the battery. I also ran 3 x 2mm wires in the same conduit. 1 is for ignition sense and the other two are spare for now. The whole thing is fused ona 50Amp fuse in the battery box and additional fuses in the blue sea. There is a 200Amp relay controlling the fused switching. The only "damage" i've had to do is make a hole for the cables to route through from the battery box to the rear corner.  I used a 32mm gland to seal it and it's behind the sepaker so you can't see it anyway. It's also as waterproof as the original metal as both ends end in the cabin and are sealed.
Click image to enlarge The switches are carling ON-OFF-ON switches. If you push them up (Green) the socket is ignition controlled so on when vehicle running and off when not. If you push them down (Orange) the socket is perm live and the middle (No Lights) is off. Click image to enlarge They control 2 USB ports and 2 cigarette lighter sockets. Click image to enlarge At the same time I also wired in a pair of matching LED lights to illuminate the load bed. Again damage free mounting with some number plate tape. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Controlled from the same panel when turned on it's like daylight in the back. Click image to enlarge |
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17th Feb 2018 7:45pm |
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| ozzie1989 Member Since: 25 Feb 2009 Location: Wales Posts: 282  
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I really like this!
I current have a sheet of plywood across the wheel boxes, and store stuff underneath that I keep in the vehicle all the time. After seeing this thread I may change that and I definitely need to get some lights in there, the standard lamp is woefully inadequate. Thanks for the inspiration  Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon
Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition) |
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17th Feb 2018 8:20pm |
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| Sockpuppet Member Since: 17 Sep 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 479
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Thanks! Took me longer than it should as I moved house part way through.
I just need a new stainless strip for the threashold. The standard one no longer fits. Next job is dual battery and more security. |
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18th Feb 2018 11:12am |
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