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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1768   
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I got drawings from DB for a very similar question, the 260mm is smaller, go figure!
I wouldn't feel comfortable not using the bracing arms, without them there's a lot of force and a lot of turning moment on the crossmember. You shouldn't attach it the "wrong" way either for many of the same reasons. Also, due to the tolerances on the holes and the pins, it would be loading the whole thing differently to how it was designed, and the slop would allow for a hell of a bang when it took up said slop. I tend to just whip mine off when I need the clearance, it's only a 20 minute job, and will be less when I get round to fitting a nut plate to the crossmember! https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3afCjMz...pXZWdGUlBn https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3afCjMz...JOS0RxV0tJ |
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24th Jul 2017 5:44pm |
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| xcentric Member Since: 17 Jan 2016 Location: Midlands Posts: 247 |
thanks. So what's the max drop available - I assume it's from the 260mm one - is it 260mm down from the standard height?
re fitting the wrong way, I'm not sure I agree - it's essentially the same forces, at the same angles, on the same bits of kit..... and if the turning moment is so bad, why do they sell them without arms for other vehicles? seems very odd to me..... |
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24th Jul 2017 5:52pm |
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| lohr500 Member Since: 14 Sep 2014 Location: Skipton Posts: 1321 
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I guess it depends on the strength of the crossmember. When I have seen them on the back of wagons without any bracing, they appear to be bolted to very substantial crossmembers. As we all know, the Defender cross member certainly isn't fabricated from girder thickness steel 
The DB drop plate may withstand the bending forces if mounted without the braces, but I wouldn't be too sure about the Defender crossmsmber. |
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24th Jul 2017 6:47pm |
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| xcentric Member Since: 17 Jan 2016 Location: Midlands Posts: 247 |
hmmm understood. Problem is,I've also just found that the rear door won't shut with that one on, so I think it's a no go.....
It currently has a hitch point and I know Nato hitches get bolted direct to the cross member, so surely it should be string enough? |
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24th Jul 2017 7:18pm |
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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1768
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Best practice is to install NATO hitches with spreader plates, as the xmember metal isn't all that thick. They also transmit their force into the xmember, not a turning force.
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24th Jul 2017 7:45pm |
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| ARC99 Member Since: 19 Feb 2013 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 1831 
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First of all, the DB adjustable tow hitch is designed with the arms that attach to the chassis for the reason as pointed out above, the rear cross member cannot take to weight of the trailer. To use it without the arms is not only dangerous but illegal.
I am sure I have seen the arms fitted to Land Rovers with fuel tank guards , have you spoken to DB to see if they can offer a solution?. I don't believe that if you were unfortunate enough to be involved in an accident while towing a trailer your insurance company would even consider a claim if you had not fitted the tow bar correctly in accordance with the manufactures instructions. If your rear door does not close after fitting then quiet simply you have fitted it incorrectly. The larger slider will give you a lower tow ball position. Don't make old people mad. We don't like being old in the first place, so it doesn't take much to  us off.
Richard |
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25th Jul 2017 9:17am |
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| xcentric Member Since: 17 Jan 2016 Location: Midlands Posts: 247 |
it's fitted correctly - just that the clearance isn't quite enough. Either that. or the holes in the cross member are in the wrong place.
Chatted to db; mostly unaware of the issue, and needed an email so waiting on their reply. And the drop plate does indeed give a lower tow ball position, but not low enough. Needs another 5cm at least for the double axle car trailer I have. The Defender has a slight lift and double rear springs, so it's higher than usual. |
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25th Jul 2017 10:34am |
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| hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2310  
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If the back door won't clear the Dixon Bate then it sounds as though it is fitted incorrectly.
Have you fitted the angle bracket beneath the crossmember, and bolted the Dixon Bate to the angle bracket as shown below?  Click image to enlarge |
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25th Jul 2017 11:18am |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295 
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Hello xcentric
You are I believe right...and I went through (more or less) your reasoning when considering what to do with mine. In short I needed a Tow Ball height of 350mm I used a 200mm DB Height Adjustable Drop Plate with Slider Click image to enlarge Actually I have 2 Sliders, one for a 50mm Ball and one for a Nato Hitch, this was the original set up... Click image to enlarge I have a NAS Rear Step Fitted...a good thing as it helps IMO to transfer the forces across the Rear Cross Member (Central and far Left / Right) The NAS Step also lowers the Towing Set Up by around 80-85mm from that of bolting directly to the Rear Cross member. I don't have a Fuel Tank Guard, but the 'Standard' Bracing for the NAS Step links to the Chassis where your Guard is probably located. I inverted my DB Unit (as you have considered doing) as it allowed a slight lower fixing Position. After adding 1'' Lifters to my Rear Springs, I also added a 2'' Drop Plate to the Slider this is only possible / legal to my understanding, on Vehicles that Do Not require a Type Approved Set Up Click image to enlarge My Bottom 'Slider' doesn't move, I have long Towing Bolts right through the arrangement also picking up on some addition bracing metalwork to the lower section of the Set Up This whole arrangement is a combination of Type Approved + Custom Components which I believe is acceptable on a Defender (Light Good Vehicle) Not requiring a Type Approved Tow Frame Click image to enlarge Hope this helps, Good Luck... SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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25th Jul 2017 11:46am |
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