 | Home > Series Land Rovers > Rusty the S2a - The rebuild thread. |
 
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1786   
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Remove the steel, clean the aluminium up well and protect it and it will stop.
An insulating layer that ideally stops water getting into the joint and forming an electrolyte between the dissimilar metals will stop it in the future. |
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30th Jun 2017 11:39am |
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| Tiger Member Since: 06 Jul 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 2265 
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For context I've cut out the steel battery box form my Series 2 and replacing it with an Aluminium version.
Where it had previously been in contact there is some dreaded white powder and most of it will come off but even after wirebrusing / flappy disc there will still be 'pits' where it is quite deep. Old Battery Box (Swiss cheese model) 
New Shiny Aluminium one
Seat Box |
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30th Jun 2017 11:46am |
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| Balvaig Member Since: 19 Feb 2016 Location: Fife Posts: 732  
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Neat construction job. But don't forget that your fixings need to be protected if steel.
Original box/ supports in not too bad condition for 50 years old though! |
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30th Jun 2017 12:37pm |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1786
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As above, nice job, just for total clarification it is aly not a YRM stainless jobby?
Anyway, clean it back, prime and sikaflex/tiger seal the joints and it will outlast us all! If it is a stainless version, or for anyone who is bored enough to be reading this far, treat stainless the same as steel, prime it, drill, debur and remove the swarf, sikaflex fill the joint, rivet the two together, clean up and then wish you'd remembered to wear gloves for the next two weeks as the stain wears off your fingers....... Good luck Keith |
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30th Jun 2017 12:43pm |
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| Tiger Member Since: 06 Jul 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 2265
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Defiantly Aluminium
 It's very light and bends easy.
The black stuff is Sikaflex, it's already on my hands  |
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30th Jun 2017 12:51pm |
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| Tiger Member Since: 06 Jul 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 2265
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A few more photos
Sanded / wire wheeled the corrosion back, etch primed and filled with a bit of body filler. Click image to enlarge Also where I'd replaced the side section I had to drill out the spot welds, at first I put some pop rivets in but these looked crap so I drilled them out and replaced with countersunk aircraft rivets. Really please with how they are looking like the original spot welds 
I reckon when sanded and painted it will look pretty much original Click image to enlarge |
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30th Jun 2017 7:18pm |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1786
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very smart!
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30th Jun 2017 9:39pm |
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| Tiger Member Since: 06 Jul 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 2265
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Bit more work replacing the rear strengthening angle bar at the rear of the seat box.
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2nd Jul 2017 7:01pm |
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| Tiger Member Since: 06 Jul 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 2265
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Okay, managed a bit more time on the beatbox refurb
All rivets are now original Domeheads (apart from 2 pops which I'll fill) and ground in some 'fake' spot welds where the countersunk rivets are. So far pretty pleased About to position new battery box
Clamped up
arrggghhhh! Sikaflex!!
Grinding in spot welds
Primed
Last edited by Tiger on 5th Jul 2017 7:21pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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5th Jul 2017 6:52pm |
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| ian series 1 Member Since: 17 Nov 2014 Location: south Posts: 3127  
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Top job that man
80" 80" 86" 88" 90"
Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered. |
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5th Jul 2017 7:14pm |
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| Tiger Member Since: 06 Jul 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 2265
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Cheers
Guess what the next job is 
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5th Jul 2017 7:25pm |
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| ian series 1 Member Since: 17 Nov 2014 Location: south Posts: 3127
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What's the tub like?
My pet hate.... 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"
Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered. |
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5th Jul 2017 7:29pm |
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| Tiger Member Since: 06 Jul 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 2265
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As you'd expect for 50 years old really
The crossmember beams are crusty but seem solid enough I'm hoping some rust convertor will lengthen their life. The wings are a bit dinted and I can't work out how to straighten them, they have a spring memory which means body filler won't work and they are too thin and flexi. Where it's attached to the chassis that's quite powdery and holey Not sure of a plan of attack yet... |
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5th Jul 2017 7:35pm |
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| ian series 1 Member Since: 17 Nov 2014 Location: south Posts: 3127
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You will have to do some Annealing to the wings by the sounds of it?
It's not too bad to do, just don't go past the point of no return...
When I did mine, I got an old scrap wing to practise on before I started the originals, It's a good way of working out what looks and feels right.  80" 80" 86" 88" 90"
Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered. |
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5th Jul 2017 8:11pm |
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