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m666blp



Member Since: 22 Jan 2015
Location: cumbria
Posts: 68

United Kingdom 2000 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Aintree Green
I'd take them out
Post #627471 28th May 2017 9:45pm
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seadogdjh



Member Since: 13 May 2017
Location: Northumberland
Posts: 32

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Epsom Green
I am also considering using raptor, black on fixtures and fittings, and the Tintable on body panels. Does anybody have experience of this on a project that has been tried and tested... Ie is it as durable as claimed with regards to scratches which you would normally pick up on overgrown green lanes etc. Was considering it for a protective coating on chassis also, but am now considering buzzweld...any thoughts in that regard also?
Post #627543 29th May 2017 1:54pm
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arran jones



Member Since: 21 Nov 2016
Location: south west
Posts: 728

United Kingdom 
Might see if I can buy the stuff at the malvern lr show on Saturday (hopefully see some def2 members there aswell Thumbs Up )

The whole process(cleaning, sanding, etch primer and spraying the Raptor)
Would it take the best part of a day to do or longer?
Post #627576 29th May 2017 4:58pm
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m666blp



Member Since: 22 Jan 2015
Location: cumbria
Posts: 68

United Kingdom 2000 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Aintree Green
watch the videos on youtube . Relatively quick .
Post #627580 29th May 2017 5:09pm
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Kit



Member Since: 12 Feb 2016
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 1110

United Kingdom 1993 Defender 90 200 Tdi SW Scotia Grey
Some etch primers need to be left on for a while, so bear that in mind 1993 200 Tdi 90 CSW
1956 Series 1 Hard-top
1958 Series 1 Soft-top
Post #627670 29th May 2017 11:12pm
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arran jones



Member Since: 21 Nov 2016
Location: south west
Posts: 728

United Kingdom 
OK kit,

What about the etch acid #8 on the video it looks like he sprays the Raptor on straight after, doesn't mention leaving it for a bit?
Post #627687 30th May 2017 6:22am
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bankz5152



Member Since: 02 Feb 2017
Location: South London/North Kent
Posts: 2188

2004 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Epsom Green
I did loads of bits on my inc the loadspace.

You will need the full 3 coats of Raptor on there for a decent finish. Prep work is key, clean it, sand it down, key it up properly, clean it again with some panel degreaser (upols stuff is great), two coats of quality acid etch on any bare metal, Upol GRIP on an areas you can key properly, the 3 coats of Raptor. At least 1 hour between coats.

I ended up using around 3 bottles for two coats so 4 bottles should give you just about enough for 3 coats.

Any holes that have a thread screw a bolt in, mask off everything else as you'll never get the Raptor off if it touches anything else!

It has to stay 100% dry and away from water for at least 3 days then 7 days before you can put any weight on to it or start drilling it. After that it is very durable, I did my rock sliders with it and caught a brick wall, all the paint is still intact.

The rear tub hasnt done as well as I didnt leave it long enough to cure and only did 2 coats. Theres a couple chips but easily solved with a third coat over the top!

Drying times etc ---

Degreaser - 10 mins before spraying over
Upol Acid etch - at least 25 mins between coats at room temp
Upol Grip - As above
Raptor - At least 1 hour between coats but make sure it is touch dry before the next coat, even if its more than an hour
Raptor - 3 days before it can get wet
Raptor - 7 days before you can load anything to it
Post #627745 30th May 2017 12:22pm
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Blanc



Member Since: 14 Jul 2016
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 43

Sorry, I forgot about this thread.

The compressor I used was the one they sell cheap at Aldi every so often.

I occasionally had to wait for it to catch up but it wasn't a problem.
Post #627982 31st May 2017 1:38pm
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