 | Home > Td5 > rear crossmember question |
 
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769   
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I think later models still have the rail but it's on the inside of the rear panel. Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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28th Apr 2017 8:22am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17368  
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As mk1collector says the bracket moved inside the body on later models.
In the early days (Series etc) there were five plates welded on the rear face of the crossmember to hold the body. Later in production, though I am not sure exactly when, this changed to the long angle bracket bolted to the top. I suspect that this was done to facilitate the accomodation of the infamous Landrover body tolerances, where two notionally identical vehicles can differe in length by 20mm or more. The later version (single long bracket) gives far more scope for catastrophic differential metal corrosion that the early version (five individual brackets)! I don't see any reason why you shouldn't weld tabs on the rear face of the crossmember, it will do the job just as well and make your Defender that little bit more unique. |
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28th Apr 2017 8:29am |
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| discomog Member Since: 09 May 2015 Location: Notts/Lincs Border Posts: 2526 
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Here's a photo of my 1998 Tdi300 which I sold to a friend some years ago. He's recently fitted a new galv chassis and as you can see it has the external tabs. I seem to recall it had the internal rail but the memory cells are not as good as they were. I do think the tabs look good though, so I'd say weld some tabs on the cross member.
 Click image to enlarge Defender 90XS SW Mini Countryman Cooper S Morgan Plus 8 |
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28th Apr 2017 11:28am |
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| Lancerdoc999 Member Since: 10 Apr 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 205
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Thanks for replies. I thinking welding the tabs on is the way forward. I will cut the tabs off the existing bracket and clean them up and get them welded on. Gets rid of the corroding plate inside and can tidy the top of the cross member also. Will also allow crud to perhaps not build up as much.
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28th Apr 2017 1:03pm |
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| derbywill Member Since: 25 Mar 2010 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 556 
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Following! My bracket on the crossmember is rusting too, would like to know if it's possible to remove and paint it without taking the body off! I guess the fuel tank has to be dropped down.
Cheers Will 2005 90 XS 1954 86'' Series 1 tilt 1968 88” 2A 200tdi 2002 110 Hardtop |
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28th Apr 2017 4:09pm |
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| Lancerdoc999 Member Since: 10 Apr 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 205
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My plan is to use a metal cutting saw to cut the top of the 4 bolts off that hold the plate on. Remove the 10 bolts to the rear panels. Then using a thin metal blade try and cut the long panel in half so can slide out. Thats the theory anyway! I'm going to then cut off the 5 brackets, clean them up, stop any rust and paint. I'll get them welded on by a local car restorer who will be doing all my welding work. Will try and document as I go.
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28th Apr 2017 5:20pm |
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