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Rallymental



Member Since: 17 Aug 2015
Location: The Garden of England
Posts: 468

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
110 Puma rear folding seat removal
Morning all!

Fitting the new tow bar this weekend so while I'm out there cuddling the defender I thought I'd have a go at removing the rear fold up seats to make a bit more space, I will then make a cover to go across the wheel arches to create space underneath away from prying eyes.

Does anyone have any advice or tips on doing any of this?

I reckon the seat removal is pretty straight forward but is there anything I need to watch for?

Making the cover, again looks quite simple but if anyone's got any pointers?

Thanks in advance! The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again but expecting different results.
Solihull, 1948 - "If we paint the chassis, it will last for years"
Solihull, 2015 - "If we paint the chassis.............................
Post #620076 28th Apr 2017 8:01am
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Stickleback



Member Since: 20 Jun 2014
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 93

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
Not much help in terms of "how", but I had my local independent remove mine, along with seat belt fittings, and it's made a massive difference to the space in the back of the 110. If, like me, you never used them (and to be fair as I have the LR dog guard fitted so the seats were completely unusable unless the dog guard was removed), it's a worthwhile mod.

I got them to take out seat belt fittings too as I thought the bits could get in the way and/or rattle around.

I have of course kept all the bits so that if I ever have to sell, I can return it to 7 seat spec.

In terms of cover, I have a duvet in the back in a black cover so the dogs are more comfortable. I also lay that over the top of anything I'm carting around when dogs not in, to keep prying eyes away. But equally an odd shaped lump under a black cover might actually pique the villains curiosity so I could actually be making things worse.
Post #620087 28th Apr 2017 8:41am
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
Nothing you need to watch for - maybe have some blanks ready for the holes, tape?

Getting the belts out is a bit more involved I guess in that you have to remove the trim (rear 1/4 window trim first, just pull 'out' then the side follows, starting from the top on that) and depending on if the nuts are captive or not on the strap under the wheel arch ( I cant recall), you'll either need a vice-grip or a buddy to help you undo the bolts.

You'll nut it out, nothing that cant be left half completed if you hit a snag... Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...


Last edited by agentmulder on 28th Apr 2017 8:53am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #620089 28th Apr 2017 8:48am
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AMBxx



Member Since: 24 Jul 2016
Location: York
Posts: 1032

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Orkney Grey
I remove mine every year to make more space for holiday stuff. Only thing I always forget is that as well as all the obvious bolts, there's an extra nut under the wheel arch that's not so obvious - don't leave it until last as you won't be able to support the seat while undoing it.
If you do put them back in, there is a left and right. Get it wrong and the seat won't lock into place (real head-scratcher first time!). Take photos.
It's a bit of a faff fitting everything back around the carpet too.

Coincidentally, this is what I'm about to do this morning.
Post #620091 28th Apr 2017 8:51am
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nosnibod



Member Since: 15 Aug 2007
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 370

United Kingdom 1998 Defender 110 300 Tdi SW Bronze Green
Also - they are incredibly heavy so be prepared to have somewhere to put them down after you've extracted them through the back door. Dave
Green Goddess - 1998 Defender 110 300tdi
Post #620115 28th Apr 2017 10:07am
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AndyS



Member Since: 18 Aug 2012
Location: London
Posts: 595

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Sumatra Black
I did the same, very easy job other than the weight of the seats. Putting a box back in the space between the wheel arches is a good thing to do too, it's a place to hide stuff but also opens up the rear into a big flat area which is handy when carrying big things (like the dog!).


Click image to enlarge
Post #620140 28th Apr 2017 11:28am
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DSC-off



Member Since: 16 Oct 2014
Location: North East
Posts: 1419

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
Hi, if you don't use the seats its probably the best thing to do.
As said, they are heavy so have somewhere prepared to put them down.
There are a lot of holes to fill, mainly M8 weld nuts on the underbody reinforcements. I bought a bag of M8 x 15 stainless bolts from screw fix, they did the job, sealed with silicone on the threads.

When cutting a board for the load shelf, the diagonal distance across corners of the back door is the largest size board you can fit in. About 1300mm wide. This was not large enough to completely cover wheel arch tops, leaves about 5" at each side.
B&Q will cut boards to size on their machine saw, easier to get home, less work and probably more accurate.

I fixed aluminium section onto the steps in the wheel arches, using some of the seat holes. Then the board was fixed to the aluminium with captive bolts in the board and wing nuts. It can be stripped out in ten minutes to carry anything large.

Click image to enlarge


Covered it in carpet bought at one of the shows, and a rubber chequer mat. I made a load guard that's fixed to through the board and to a Mantec Loadlugger at the top. D lashing rings from Flatdog finished it off for somewhere to secure the fridge when camping.


Click image to enlarge

Camping chairs live under there permanently, also the lightweight awning / tent when travelling.
Post #620176 28th Apr 2017 3:52pm
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Rallymental



Member Since: 17 Aug 2015
Location: The Garden of England
Posts: 468

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
Thanks all for the removal tips Thumbs Up

AndyS, DSC, oooohhhh I like Thumbs Up Thumbs Up thanks for sharing and thanks for the suggestions and photos The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again but expecting different results.
Solihull, 1948 - "If we paint the chassis, it will last for years"
Solihull, 2015 - "If we paint the chassis.............................
Post #620269 28th Apr 2017 9:05pm
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Markez79



Member Since: 27 Jun 2018
Location: South West
Posts: 201

DSC-off wrote:
Hi, if you don't use the seats its probably the best thing to do.
As said, they are heavy so have somewhere prepared to put them down.
There are a lot of holes to fill, mainly M8 weld nuts on the underbody reinforcements. I bought a bag of M8 x 15 stainless bolts from screw fix, they did the job, sealed with silicone on the threads.

When cutting a board for the load shelf, the diagonal distance across corners of the back door is the largest size board you can fit in. About 1300mm wide. This was not large enough to completely cover wheel arch tops, leaves about 5" at each side.
B&Q will cut boards to size on their machine saw, easier to get home, less work and probably more accurate.

I fixed aluminium section onto the steps in the wheel arches, using some of the seat holes. Then the board was fixed to the aluminium with captive bolts in the board and wing nuts. It can be stripped out in ten minutes to carry anything large.

Click image to enlarge


Covered it in carpet bought at one of the shows, and a rubber chequer mat. I made a load guard that's fixed to through the board and to a Mantec Loadlugger at the top. D lashing rings from Flatdog finished it off for somewhere to secure the fridge when camping.


Click image to enlarge

Camping chairs live under there permanently, also the lightweight awning / tent when travelling.


This is awesome! Its just a shame I'm a total fool when it comes to these types of thing!

What is the metal section on the leading edge of the shelf? Is it basically 3 sides of a cube that slides on to the wood?

You also mention there are lots of holes to fill once the seats are removed. I wasn't clear on whether they can all be filled by using the M8 Weld Nuts, or whether some had to be filled another way.

I know you state that the ply board will be about 5 inches short on both sides, but does it still create a flat surface right up to under the windows?

Lastly, does the aluminum box section run the length of the ply board, or does it just sit above the fixing points? What where the dimensions of the section?

Sorry for all the questions but I have been looking for a good alternative to the some of the expensive shelving options, and this looks great.

Thanks

Mark
Post #767020 5th Apr 2019 12:38pm
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newton-tony



Member Since: 18 Sep 2016
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 122

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Firenze Red
Thanks for the storage options - will work well in my utility for sure!
Post #767023 5th Apr 2019 1:02pm
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DSC-off



Member Since: 16 Oct 2014
Location: North East
Posts: 1419

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
Hi Markez,
All the materials used were from B&Q (aluminium), Screwfix (bolts, washers, nuts) or picked up at a Landrover show (carpet, tie down hooks). I don't need a storage drawer, just a flat surface to stack on and slide things under. All the bought options were £600 plus and not really what I wanted, the only option was to make something. I was quite pleased with how it turned out and it works great for how we camp - most of the gear is in stacker boxes.

The aluminium edge is "L" section 44 x 24 mm 1.0 m long. This was added after the carpet started to snag, dragging the boxes in and out. It's held in place by the 3 "D" ring cargo loops. An added benefit is it stiffens the board for heavier loads. The load guard stiffens the front edge, but a simple L strip there would do the same. Mine has no additional support or stiffening underneath and is ok with 100 Kg sat in the middle Embarassed


Click image to enlarge


The seat holes are filled with M8x15 stainless bolts, approximately 10 each side, they screw into the weld nuts that are on the underside of the body reinforcements. There were only 2 holes that these bolts didn't fit, I used plastics fir tree clips and silicone sealant, also on bolts. This is driver side, near fuel filler,


Click image to enlarge


My shelf is offset, with 3" gap on the passenger side, 7" driver side. It sits about 1" above the top of the wheel arches but this has never been an issue.


Click image to enlarge


The aluminium section that it sits on is 20 x 35 mm, 2 strips each side. This makes up the step height perfectly. Yes, it does run the full length of the board, well 10mm less, and the lower section is 100mm shorter than the top one, 50mm each end.


Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge


The seat holes in the body tub are not in line, so ali sections run at an angle. This made it a bit more than a measure and drill operation to get the shelf bolts to line up. Aluminium section fixed in place, board dropped on top (no carpet or bolts), spotted through board into the Ali. Remove board, fit bolts, cover with carpet. - I think that's how I did it.

Good luck with it, nothing too difficult. Check measurements, use sharp drills, some shiney aluminium and new carpet will look great. Thumbs Up
Post #767048 5th Apr 2019 4:27pm
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Markez79



Member Since: 27 Jun 2018
Location: South West
Posts: 201

Amazing, thank you very much for taking the time to respond. Thumbs Up

All the best.

Mark
Post #767098 5th Apr 2019 7:58pm
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CBearRun



Member Since: 03 Jun 2018
Location: Clydebank
Posts: 20

Scotland 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Epsom Green
Hey Mark

Probably a bit late to the thread but I found the easiest way to remove was to undo all the fixings of the first bracket (closest to rear door) while in the upright position, remembering to keep hold of all those nuts from underneath. Prepare to get up into the wheel arch which will be dirty. Disconnect from the support bracket that sits underneath which is just unpopping the small nylon strap that wraps around the metal. Once all the bolts are removed leave it sitting in place upright to support itself. Then remove the main Nut from the other bracket i.e. the big one on the side of the bracket next to the spring; it protrudes towards the middle row seats. Its a big one and really stands out. Once this is done you can lift the seat and slide it out of the bracket. This leaves that bracket open to get into easier. Beware as someone has already mentioned the seat is very heavy and clunky so move it in stages as to not hurt yourself.

I’m not very technical so hope this makes sense and helps someone.
Post #768633 14th Apr 2019 10:24pm
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Greadh



Member Since: 17 Feb 2016
Location: North West
Posts: 97

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Santorini Black
Did anyone tell their insurance company they had removed the seats? I'm thinking of removing the second row seats (USW) and some people had said to inform insurance as it's no longer a 5 seater.
Post #768943 17th Apr 2019 10:17am
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Markez79



Member Since: 27 Jun 2018
Location: South West
Posts: 201

That's a good point.....would be interested to hear thoughts on this befoire I start the project!
Post #768944 17th Apr 2019 10:30am
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