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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637   
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Hi folks,
Whats the wisdom on wiring up spotlights (roof rack). On my truck, somebody has run a route of conduit unto the headlining, so i want to utilise that (the cabling has been partially removed). I have 4 LED spots, each drawing 105 watt @ 12v, so gives me 8.755Amp per light draw, lets say 9amp. I have a wiring run of circa 3m, looking at verious online calculators it says to limit voltage drop to between 3 and 4%, so this puts me into a wee dilemma. Do I run thick cable to a junction box on the rack and split from there, or do i run multiple smaller cable but one strand to each light. What would the conventional wisdom be here. PS anybody have any clues on good cable glands that will seal on either multiple wire or two core wire??? Cheers Andy |
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4th Apr 2017 8:00pm |
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| DuncanS Member Since: 06 Dec 2013 Location: Cumbria Posts: 299  
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Hmm. It all depends on your existing route where it breaks from inside to outside of the vehicle, and the method of getting there. In the case of using a mating waterproof multipin as Lancerdoc999 mentions, I'd run your lights in pairs for redundancy, with each pair run on 2mm thin wall twin core, giving you approx 7a headroom on each feed and minimising your voltage drop, although 3m isn't that much of a big deal and I tend not to account for it as I always try and allow 20% headroom where possible for current anyway.
Normally if you're running lights on a roof rack or similar, I'd use the HarnessFlex system of sealed joints and connector interfaces, to clamp straight onto the back of the connectors and seal it up. Its one of those things that will cost a lot but a) looks great and tidy and b) is reliable. Generally I try and keep the joints to a minimum outside if possible, and I also try and keep them within something I can heatshrink. If I end up using a jointing box (as I did on my first roofrack install) I would always conduit everything and use sealed glands and then plenty of tigerseal. If you have any further queries, just bang me a PM and I can give you a ring, or just pop a reply on here. North Cumbria Search and Rescue - Team Leader |
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4th Apr 2017 10:37pm |
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| Buz Member Since: 24 Jan 2014 Location: Forest of Dean Posts: 238 
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105W per LED Spot, that must be some kind of spots, mine are only about 18W and powerful enough. You sure thats not the light strength they put out rather than actual wattage of the spotlight?
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5th Apr 2017 10:21am |
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| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6634 
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As above, check the LED lamp current draw.
 1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
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5th Apr 2017 10:43am |
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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637
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Mmmm, yes you could all be right on that count.
its 105watt rated on the box, but no other specs to help confirm amp draw. Only option I have is to wire in my current meter (voltmeter set to measure current). Mind you, now that you mentioned it, it didn't blow my fuse on my desk PSU, and I think that's rated to 5amp...... Will advise on what I find 
PS lights are same as shown on my robbontherock modification thread. Cheers Andy |
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5th Apr 2017 11:20am |
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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637
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Many thanks for your reply, I agree with using the harness flex conduit, I do agree it needs to be neat and tidy and not a pigs ear!!! Any good tips on suitable conduit glanding for interfacing with the roof??? Cheers Andy |
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5th Apr 2017 11:22am |
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| Buz Member Since: 24 Jan 2014 Location: Forest of Dean Posts: 238
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You could well be right, just looked at the ones on your other thread and then found these that look very similar, they are 105W per spot, thats going to be some kind of light they kick out
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pair-Black-LED-2...Sw-4BXbSVX |
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5th Apr 2017 11:39am |
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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637
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That's them!
I am blaming youngest son for this (my 10 year old son), he liked the colour and they looked cool and so we went with that. My eldest son (12) will be fitting them on Saturday...... We bought them as part of a mini committee, there criteria was they had to look cool, my criteria was the budget was up to £200......fail. Trying to encourage more grease monkey activity and broaden their horizons a bit, best solution I have is for them to have some skin in the game. Cheers Andy |
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5th Apr 2017 11:55am |
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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637
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So, Spotlights fitted tonight.
Not wired up, just bolted up and wiring roughly sealed and tywrapped. They look good, i have to say, daylight photos to follow. WIP Photo [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] One thing I like with this set, and its a minor point, is that all the fittings are stainless steel, so should avoid that nasty rust streaking. Anyway, taking onboard the previous comments about wattage and amp draw, I wired up the lights to my transformer and put my old multi-meter in the circuit measuring the amp draw. So I measured 1.2 to 1.3 amp draw, so wow, yes miles below what 105 watts should be supplying. 1.3amp at 12v, gives around 15 to 18watts. So not far off what Buz suggested!! [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] So result, I can get away with smaller wiring, downside is I already bought heavy duty 2 core cable, never mind sure it will come in handy for something...... Conduit harness still to buy........ Cheers Andy Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Last edited by ROBBONTHEROCK on 6th Apr 2017 8:34pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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6th Apr 2017 8:11pm |
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| DuncanS Member Since: 06 Dec 2013 Location: Cumbria Posts: 299
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Don't forget on some transformers and power supplies, they may be regulating the power input significantly without it blowing up. I'd suggest putting a suitably rated multimeter in line with a lamp run off the battery and see what current passes then to get an accurate result. North Cumbria Search and Rescue - Team Leader
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6th Apr 2017 8:18pm |
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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637
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Hi,
Yes, good advice, but i built my transformer back at uni as a first year project. From memory all it has driving it is a step-down transformer with no electronics to limit current. It has dial to choose which voltage you want to supply up to 12v. The only thing protecting the transformer is a glass fuse
But i take your point, I'll look to do some sort of test this weekend just using battery as power supply. Will post the results when have them. PS where did you buy all your harness conduit pieces from? Cheers Andy |
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6th Apr 2017 8:32pm |
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| DuncanS Member Since: 06 Dec 2013 Location: Cumbria Posts: 299
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I have used a huge range of suppliers in the past. AES do a lot of the Harnessflex stuff inc a lot of the odd backshell adapters, but with fair disclosure, selling electrical consumables and LED lighting is my day job now, so I just order via durite, automarine and others with whatever I need
Other online retailers other than myself, and ones I could reccomend from experience include: polevolt (.co.uk) vehicle wiring products (.eu) 12 Volt Planet (.co.uk) AES (.gb.com) HTH Duncan North Cumbria Search and Rescue - Team Leader |
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6th Apr 2017 8:36pm |
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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637
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Thanks,
I'm having some trouble visualising what i want!! when i assumed i had to deal with huge power draw on the wiring i planned to use heavy cable to a junction box mounted on the rack, with power split to each light vis conduit. I have a junction box riving, so will have a play about and jig it up. My main worry though is sealing the penetration into the roof and also sealing the conduit properly. Cheers Andy PS would prefer toby through a forum member when i know exactly what i want. |
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6th Apr 2017 9:37pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20583
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Compression cable gland, wires in un-split conduit.
Cable entry / exit can be adhesive heatshrink with some Silicone in it at the exact point the wires exit. There are various cable gland styles and types around, but imo a compression fitting is much much better than a blind grommet or similar on an exterior. If you have a Snorjek or RAI that can be an ideal cable run area instead and avoid any holes in the roof all together. KEEP CALM AND Drill ON 🇬🇧ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ¥ó ®ó §ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ·ó ¬ó ³ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ³ó £ó ´ó ¿ðŸ‡®ðŸ‡ªðŸ‡ºðŸ‡¸â›½ï¸ðŸ›¢ï¸âš™ï¸ðŸ§°ðŸ’ª |
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6th Apr 2017 9:49pm |
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