 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > waxoil.....thoughts |
 
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| mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5035   
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I'm sure this post will be pulled...but all I can say is anything well applied is better than nothing Mike
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3rd Apr 2017 11:02pm |
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| grafty99 Member Since: 15 Aug 2012 Location: North Devon Posts: 4785 
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+1 ^^ 2002 90 Td5 Station Wagon
1990 Vogue SE Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200 Td5 90 Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic50767.html Tdi 110 Thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic69562.html RRC Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic54492.html Instagram http://www.instagram.com/george_grafton |
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3rd Apr 2017 11:04pm |
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| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6605 
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Tons about corrosion prevention on the forum.
Start here: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic10467.html I will PM you with why I have removed what I have removed.  1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
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3rd Apr 2017 11:06pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720 
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Waxoyl is cheap and effective at stopping rust. but it's messy, attracts dirt, stinks, melts and leaks out in summer, and it's awkward to apply.
I would recommend Dinitrol, it's a little more expensive, but it's so much easier to work with and lasts much much longer. It's also a system with different products for different areas. Waxoyl washes off easily from wheel arches for example, where as dinitrol do a thicker version for wheel arches which doesn't wash off with road spray. The biggest plus is Dinitrol skins over so it doesn't attract dirt. |
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4th Apr 2017 12:25am |
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| Roverrobbie Member Since: 06 Feb 2016 Location: Orkney Posts: 17 
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I have found that waxoyl tends to peel off. Dinitrol and bilt hamber are better and seem to last well. (Treated the sump of my defender with bilt hamber 6 months ago and it it's still ok) Any of these wax coatings do not seem to neutralise rust very well unless the surface is cleaned and treated first. If they are spayed directly onto rust , they trap moisture and may make the corrosion worse. Any rust should be painted with a good quality rust preventing primer. I have had limited success with products such as Kurust or POR 20 and would not recommend them.
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4th Apr 2017 7:41am |
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| Sammyboy Member Since: 28 Feb 2017 Location: Hampshire Posts: 121 
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Has anyone got experience of <snip>
This post has been edited by the site administration team to comply with forum policy |
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4th Apr 2017 7:49am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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I'm afraid that discussion of that company is not welcome here, which, I suspect, is why the original post was edited. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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4th Apr 2017 7:52am |
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| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6605
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http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic8301.html
1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
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4th Apr 2017 8:42am |
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| AMBxx Member Since: 24 Jul 2016 Location: York Posts: 1031 
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Discussing <snip> again?
Odd - adding snip-snip in brackets gets shortedned to snip |
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4th Apr 2017 9:27am |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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They're ok for soaking into it inside box sections, so long as you can get the car dry the waxes soak into the rust and replace the water preventing it rusting further. Little point spraying/painting it onto rusty bits on the outside mind you. It's best not to paint rust, if you can clean it off to bright metal first then paint the metal with a decent zinc primer. The rust converters are good for working into seams where you want to paint over it but can't get all the rust out. They're not miracle workers though, if you can clean the rust off with a flap wheel then it's always preferable to using a converter and painting over it. |
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4th Apr 2017 1:29pm |
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| Roverrobbie Member Since: 06 Feb 2016 Location: Orkney Posts: 17
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I have cleaned off rust using a grinder and then treated with Kurust and then paint only for it to return in a short space of time. Also Zinc primers such as Galvafroid work well at protecting freshly cut bare steel but are not so good at preventing rust from re-appearing. I have had most success grit blasting rust and then treating the freshly blasted surface with Mebon primer. Then a top coat can be applied. This works very well and can slow down rust for years.
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4th Apr 2017 3:16pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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That's where you went wrong, rust converters make poor primers for clean steel, when you cleaned it off with a grinder you got rid of pretty much all the rust. The primer then didn't bond to the steel properly so it didn't protect it, the converter basically just made a latex barrier between the primer and the steel. I'd made the same mistake myself, applied to brown rust, converters work quite well. But if it's in a location you can clean all the rust off it far better than trying to use a converter on it. If you clean off the rust to shiney steel (flap wheels work better than grind stones) then it's as good as fresh cut steel. |
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4th Apr 2017 3:30pm |
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