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| Cheshire110 Member Since: 26 Jul 2013 Location: Cheshire/London Posts: 2755  
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So on my 2016 110, what should I be greasing?
I'm trying to be well set up to protect and look after it into the future! Cheers, David Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8. |
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25th Aug 2016 7:49am |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
prop shaft UJ
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25th Aug 2016 8:11am |
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| Cheshire110 Member Since: 26 Jul 2013 Location: Cheshire/London Posts: 2755
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Yep that was the one I kinda knew - not looked on the recent ones, are they fitted with a nipple? Cheers, David
Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8. |
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25th Aug 2016 8:17am |
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| Cheshire110 Member Since: 26 Jul 2013 Location: Cheshire/London Posts: 2755
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**duplicate** Cheers, David
Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8. |
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25th Aug 2016 10:41pm |
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| Alien Member Since: 18 Jan 2015 Location: Bacchus Marsh Posts: 230 
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Mine has no grease nipples in any of the steering gear which surprised me.
All my universals have nipples fitted(MY12). The drive flanges as mentioned, mine where dry when I got it with 3 years of use. Long term maintenance when you want to go pulling things apart as time/millage gets on... Wheel bearings. Swivel hubs/CV's. With great risk of opening a can of worms... Although not listed by LR for maintenance don't forget the dreaded adaptor shaft. Cheers, Kyle. |
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26th Aug 2016 4:58am |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971 
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How do you grease them? What do you do once you've remove the dust cap? |
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26th Aug 2016 12:05pm |
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| Fatboy Slim Member Since: 04 Feb 2008 Location: Bridgend Posts: 1006 
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Weld the back ones up
 and lube the fronts with some ep90 |
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26th Aug 2016 7:31pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324 
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Remove circlip. (If initial inspection shows a lot of corrosion it's probably a good idea to have some spares and/or just install new ones after, they're real cheap...) Remove 5X flange bolts and pull off the flange, a tap with a hammer will assist in breaking the gasket connection to the hub (and if corroded breaking any 'rust-weld' between it and the halfshaft). Easier to do than explain 
If the halfshalft comes out on the rear, no fuss, good opportunity to check the internal splines also... Clean up the flange and hub from gasket residue (use a gasket scraper or something expensive from the kitchen), clean up flange and outer shaft splines and inspect backlash/meshing. Replace if required (and your wallet permits). Use OEM and/or bearmach or better, definitely not britpart pattern. Otherwise grease up splines. Easy! I used heaps (to allow for the wiping action of the reinsertion) Insert shaft into axle, fiddle until it seats properly into the diff, oh and try to be careful not to force the internal seal out of the stub axle if you get resistance after the first 200mm or so. Clean flange bolts or install new, return flange and new flange gasket, torque up to WSM spec (and loctite if specced). Circlip, grease packed dust cover, wheels. Drive to shop to get some biccies. (I'll look up torque specs layer, phone currently on %3 battery!) Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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26th Aug 2016 9:14pm |
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| defender9 Member Since: 12 Mar 2016 Location: Fylde Coast Posts: 1629 
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Just reading posts on drive flanges and have been looking at potentially changing mine eventually, however as the vehicle is pretty new I thought I would just whip off the drive flanges and lubricate the splines first. I know folks have used grease but I quite like Rocol anti scuffing paste and wondered if anyone has used this in preference to grease to lubricate the splines?
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9th Mar 2017 6:39pm |
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