 | Home > Td5 > Heating issue Td5 |
 
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| CDN38 Member Since: 14 Nov 2014 Location: Courtenay, BC Posts: 729   
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Ok..so I am geting to the end of coming up with a cause and or solution....
MY 2000 Td5 110 Symptom: I have heat while driving at highway speeds after a moment or two. Every time I stop, or am in stop and go traffic, it takes about 30 seconds, and the heater blows cold. Further investigation, bottom rad hose is cold, bottom half of rad is cold. Top of the rad and top hose is hot. First... really? Thinking thermostat, but it's only 2 years old. installed new thermostat. No change 
Flushed heater core, it's clear and fine. Hmmm... circulation problem? Water pump? Install new water pump. No change. (old one was a little crusty. A little resistance on the shaft, not bad though). Hmmm... could there be blockage in the rad? Doubt it. Coolant is clear when drained. No debris. Radiator does work... but let's eliminate the possibility. New radiator... Still, no change. 
So... anyone run into this before? it's a Landrover thing... my renovation thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html |
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2nd Mar 2017 3:02am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324 
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How about a seized viscous fan unit meaning it's being driven all of the time? Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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2nd Mar 2017 9:02am |
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| 4RF RDS Member Since: 19 Jul 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 968 
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Okay so this seems weird to some however to me it does not.
It also sounds like you have already done just about everythng that it could be if you had a problem. For what its worth... I live in Ottawa a heck of lot colder than just about anywhere in BC (-15 today). If I drive my 2000 Td5 in this waether (which I do) it'll warm up at highway speeds and stay warm blowing hot air in this temp. When I slow down she cools down very fast and the temp gauge will drop to blue within minutes.
At this point (when the needle starts to drop) I just touch the Webasto button and she stays warm till I get going faster again then I turn it off. I have never checked the rad nor hoses as I had similar performance from my 300 Tdi. On that motor I just used a radiator blanket mad it sorted the issue promptly.  I do not use a rad blanket on this one as it has the Webasto.
So all this to say I think its probably normal...  2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam) 2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX) 1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy) 1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood) 1967 MGB GT Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats. H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956) |
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2nd Mar 2017 3:29pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6772  
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Are you sure there isn't an airlock somewhere? Also I've read lots of posts with people taking the viscous fan off permanently which I probably wouldn't do in this country but with those temperatures you'll probably be fine, the td5 is over cooled anyway. With the fan off the rad won't cool as quick. Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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2nd Mar 2017 4:52pm |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
air lock
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2nd Mar 2017 5:02pm |
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| CDN38 Member Since: 14 Nov 2014 Location: Courtenay, BC Posts: 729
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I was thinking it may have been air block, back towards the beginning, but at constant speed (say 2000rpm) the heat comes back, every time.
Have had coolant in and out 3x now, and bled the system of air each time. I the more times i empty and re-fill, the less chance I think there could be an air pocket each and every time. it's a Landrover thing... my renovation thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html |
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2nd Mar 2017 5:44pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6772
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Water can trickle past an air lock and give you heat again as the pump feeds the heater matrix. Try parking up an incline facing up hill and running the engine upto temperature with the header cap off also as the engine is running try squeezing the water pipes to try and force any air through. When you think it's bled open the bleed nipples to let any extra air out. Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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2nd Mar 2017 8:57pm |
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| grafty99 Member Since: 15 Aug 2012 Location: North Devon Posts: 4801 
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I run without a fan all year round and it's no problem at all (including towing) so I'd imagine you would be fine without a fan in temperatures that low
2002 90 Td5 Station Wagon
1990 Vogue SE Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200 Td5 90 Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic50767.html Tdi 110 Thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic69562.html RRC Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic54492.html Instagram http://www.instagram.com/george_grafton |
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2nd Mar 2017 9:33pm |
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| Gillan Member Since: 01 Apr 2016 Location: Sheffield Posts: 35 
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Hi I am having the same problem with my 03my heater was tepid but when I bled the top hose loads of air came out and heater restored to normal, could it not be a blocked rad?
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2nd Mar 2017 9:35pm |
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| CDN38 Member Since: 14 Nov 2014 Location: Courtenay, BC Posts: 729
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No time to get to it today
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The rad and water pump were brand new installed yesterday, so that's no the issue. Viscous fan is in good order. Temperatures here in Vancouver are above freezing, occasionally just below, sort of on par with a London winter. It's definitely not that it's being over cooled, the block is at normal operating temp, there's just no flow of hot coolant at low RPM. Usually that would be the water pump, or thermostat, or clogged rad. All 3 are brand new...  it's a Landrover thing...
my renovation thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html |
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3rd Mar 2017 6:54am |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6772
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I'd say it must be an airlock then Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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3rd Mar 2017 12:41pm |
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| jrule Member Since: 10 Aug 2015 Location: Hertfordshire Posts: 302 
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why dont you try a rad cover to see if the engine temp warming up helps.
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3rd Mar 2017 1:20pm |
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| Mash Member Since: 09 Feb 2015 Location: Guernsey Posts: 1674  
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Air lock does seem most likely, the best way to bleed is engine running, heaters of max speed/heat, loosen the jubilee clip for the heater matrix input, sometimes a small flat blade needs to be inserted down the pipe to "crack" it allowing the air to escape, once its warm ensure your heaters are piping hot and you should be good. Most just use the two bleed points rad/thermostat housing (might be a pipe bleed point on td5), but the best way I have found is the above as it's the highest point in the system. 90 wolf - Jasmin http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic39408.html
90 V8 - Maggie http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic42564.html 110 TD5 - Buggsy http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic59029.html 52HG25 lightweight https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72342.html D3 Hse - Fiona Capri 2l S - Anna Think I might have a problem............ |
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3rd Mar 2017 1:26pm |
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| 4RF RDS Member Since: 19 Jul 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 968
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CND 38, D'you sort it yet? 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam) 2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX) 1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy) 1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood) 1967 MGB GT Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats. H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956) |
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4th Mar 2017 5:51pm |
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