 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Trolley jacks for Defender. |
 
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816   
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g-dog-s, thanks for that explanation. This "C" part you mention, do you mean under the "C" lying on its back in below picture?
 Click image to enlarge If that is correct, I have measured that the distance between the left and right C parts is almost 90 cm. Would it then be a good idea to order the 3T trolley jack with an additional 2T adjustable jacking beam which can be extended upto a width of 97 cm? The version below. http://www.sgs-engineering.com/tj3b-3-ton-...cking-beam What say? Thanks, Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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26th Feb 2017 3:44pm |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816
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You are quite right there. One side at the time and on axle stands seems the right thing to do.
Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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26th Feb 2017 4:55pm |
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| mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5035  
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They used to recommend jack on the diff casing!
Im trying to find the tool - but you can get an attachment for the jack to position par on the diff case and part on the axle to lift squarely. Also - those lifting D3/4's or RRS - there is an attachment you can insert into the jack that uses the LR jacking point on the chassis Here it is: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-X137-Cross...B00CM9B38A Mike |
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26th Feb 2017 4:57pm |
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| g-dog-s Member Since: 27 Aug 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 16  
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Hmmm, interesting, not sure about that one either
Think I would like to see someone else try it on their vehicle first.... |
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26th Feb 2017 5:24pm |
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| mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5035
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I come back to jacking on diff casing is the correct location - technically jacking on the radius arm isnt correct (although i do it too!)
The advantage of that sealey device is you can then position axle stands in the correct location. Also a point on Jacks - i have some good trolley jacks 3-5t ones, but the defender isnt that heavy - especially when your only lifting 1 corner or the front/rear Mike |
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26th Feb 2017 5:28pm |
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| g-dog-s Member Since: 27 Aug 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 16
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Ok, so with this Sealey device, the spread of the load caused by the two load bearing points is to achieve balance given that the diff case is off centre. It must assume where the CoG really is, in relation to the centre line of the vehicle, so that there isn't too much twisting torque on the jack.
Have you used one, MSE? I suppose it's obvious that to use an axle stand in the correct place, you have to jack somewhere else, so why not jack once and put stands on each side. |
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26th Feb 2017 6:17pm |
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| mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5035
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Ive just bought one actually - but i have 4 trolley jacks - so not really got this problem...in fact i reckon it will only work in 1 of my 3t jacks
An advantage of this is you wont get the rolling moment when you lif one side, insert stand lower and repeat on the other.. The issue when jacking is it can be a pain to put in the stand one side as the jack gets in the way. Plus when your stands are in i tend to leave the jack in place so this can sit there too. It will be a while before i need to do anything on the defender though Mike |
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26th Feb 2017 6:39pm |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2639 
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Bottom of diff casing is fine, remember only the pan is wafer thin metal, the casing is nice and thick and will take a jack no problem. Mind to avoid the drain hole though just to avoid damaging the threads or plug.
Jacking on the radius arms is not ideal as the weight of the vehicle is put onto your bushes, but in all reality it will do little harm. I just tend to do one side at a time and put the stands in as I go. Nearside I it jack on the tube, far enough inboard that I can fit the stand underneath the correct location (between radius arm bracket and swivel ball flange). Offside is done on the diff casing as there's no flat tube to use between the curve of the diff and the axle bracketry. If jacking the whole front end up then the beam as pictured above would technically be the 'proper' way to do it. |
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26th Feb 2017 9:22pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720 
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Don't get too excited about the SGS jacks, they're just the same far eastern made jacks sold by Draper, Sealey, Clarke, Halfords etc. They seem to allude to being a "UK Company" on their website, but notice they don't specify "UK Made" on most of it.
I've got a Weber trolley jack, it's a league above any of the stuff from SGS or the suppliers i list above. http://www.weberuk.com/ They're not cheap, but at least some of them are EU made. I've also got an old Weber branded Mercedes Sprinter bottle jack, i've given that all sorts of abuse and after 15 years it's still going strong! I tend to use the bottom of the diff to jack the car, then put axle stands under the ends. Unless you need to remove an axle, It's not worth trying to jack under the chassis, as you'll spend hours trying to run out the suspension travel.  |
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26th Feb 2017 9:37pm |
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| apt100 Member Since: 05 Mar 2015 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 1547 
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video showing it being used on the front axle of a Defender
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26th Feb 2017 9:38pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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If you're jacking it on reasonably level ground you don't really need the adaptor.
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26th Feb 2017 9:48pm |
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| Joe the Plumber Member Since: 18 Dec 2013 Location: Midlands Posts: 907 
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Dragging up an old topic, I recently bought one of these:
http://www.pteonline.co.uk/shop/weber-stan...ack%7C251/ along with this (you do need it): http://www.pteonline.co.uk/shop/trolley-ja...f-251.html Lots of money, but oh my goodness, what a bit of kit. It happily copes with the 110 and is really lovely to use. If you work on your vehicles and can afford one, you'll wonder how you ever managed without it. |
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10th Jan 2020 9:11am |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295 
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I have the 2.5T SGS Racing Trolley Jack
Its been used both on the Defender with oak blocks to support all round including a profiled block fitting the Axle DIA for lifting. The Jack has performed well it also gets under smaller lower cars, main 'must do' as with other Jacks is to ensure that it's at its lowest position before starting to lift as this ensures the arm goes up well. The Racing Jack is also slightly lighter to carry for me over a gravel drive...
Click image to enlarge SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html Last edited by X4SKP on 11th Jan 2020 11:55am. Edited 1 time in total |
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10th Jan 2020 9:52am |
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| Joe the Plumber Member Since: 18 Dec 2013 Location: Midlands Posts: 907
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The Weber is a fair weight. It's only 80mm high when fully lowered. One of its best features are the castors. They're so smooth running compared to anything I've used before which is a big help.
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10th Jan 2020 10:56am |
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