 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Doors - beyond repair? |
 
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324  
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It depends on whether you plan to do it yourself or pay somebody else. The parts required to carry out the repair are quite cheap but the time required to do it is considerable. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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19th Feb 2017 10:47pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720 
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As above, repair panels are usually cheap, but the time and skill required to fix them properly is quite considerable.
If you have the time and skill to do them yourself, then it boils down to how much value you place on your time. They're not beyond repair, but may well be beyond "economical" repair. |
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19th Feb 2017 11:42pm |
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| Scott_Landy Member Since: 24 Aug 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 85 
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Thanks for that. I'm no skilled body worker so guess I will look out for new ones and put these on flea bay and see what someone is willing to pay.
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20th Feb 2017 7:54am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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If you're going to go for brand new then take a look at SP4x4. They offer a wide range of OEM and upgraded replacement bare doors. You'd need to factor in the cost of all of the fittings too, though.
For mine, I've decided to go for take-off late TD5/Puma doors, which is a marginally cheaper approach. Just picked up a front passenger door and am on the look out for a matching drivers door. Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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20th Feb 2017 8:38am |
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| Scott_Landy Member Since: 24 Aug 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 85
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Thanks for that Darren. Had a look at those and the galv ones are temping. Not cheap but given the chassis bad bulk head are done, may as well complete the set!
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20th Feb 2017 2:34pm |
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| Intercept Member Since: 27 Feb 2017 Location: Suffolk Posts: 587 
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I've just fitted a set of 4 galvanised doors from SP4x4. Not cheap but I was impressed with the quality and fit. After much deliberation I went for the steel skin version. The skin is zintec rather than dip galvanised. apparently to avoid warping etc. Before going to the spray shop they needed all the threads recutting and a few holes re-drilled to remove excess zinc, but apart from that it has been a straightforward (but time-consuming) job.
 Click image to enlarge Now I wish I'd bought new hinges at the same time... |
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5th Mar 2017 12:10pm |
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| Scott_Landy Member Since: 24 Aug 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 85
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Thanks for that. Be interesting to see how you go on with the fitting as this is steadily climbing up my list of priorities!
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6th Mar 2017 1:37pm |
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| Intercept Member Since: 27 Feb 2017 Location: Suffolk Posts: 587
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They're all fitted now. I just need to replace one central locking actuator, make some new plastic liners and then refit the door cards. Having driven the 110 in heavy rain today without door cards & liners I'm astonished as to how much water bypasses brand new window rubbers and ends up inside the door. No wonder the steel frames rot out
My old front doors are probably good enough for someone to repair, but like yours the 2nd row doors are much worse. I'd offer the 2nd Row doors free-of-charge for someone to collect but I'm too new to the forum to be allowed to do this. John |
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6th Mar 2017 4:46pm |
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| Intercept Member Since: 27 Feb 2017 Location: Suffolk Posts: 587
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I had the debatable joy of refitting the door cards yesterday so now all 4 doors are finished
The original plastic liners were shredded (and very expensive to buy from LR) so I used http://www.screwfix.com/p/vapour-barrier-g...-20m/12869 instead. £15 for enough to do an entire fleet. Click image to enlarge During the project I did drive through some heavy rain without door cards or liners and was astonished as to how much water bypasses even brand new window rubbers. No wonder the steel frame rots out  So - if you haven't got a Puma or galvanised doors get some protection applied (but don't block the drain holes!) |
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11th Mar 2017 9:24am |
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| CDN38 Member Since: 14 Nov 2014 Location: Courtenay, BC Posts: 729  
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Be sure to apply DumDum or strip caulk in the corners of the door skin where it meets the rubber waist seal and spacer blocks, water will pour in through there. It is something that was pretty thinly applied at the factory, if at all.
Click image to enlarge it's a Landrover thing... my renovation thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html |
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11th Mar 2017 5:56pm |
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| Intercept Member Since: 27 Feb 2017 Location: Suffolk Posts: 587
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Thanks for the tip about DumDum. There was none on the old doors, but I've now added some to the new ones
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12th Mar 2017 8:45pm |
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| kzycnn Member Since: 24 Apr 2009 Location: Northumberland Posts: 276 
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Hi John
I see you used the TD5 style door. Did you consider the later puma-esq one piece framed doors? I have mine to do in the near future and wondered if the latter were a straight forward swap using all my existing TD5 internals? Tony |
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31st Mar 2017 12:42pm |
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| Intercept Member Since: 27 Feb 2017 Location: Suffolk Posts: 587
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The Puma door needs a few modifications to be able to take the Td5 ancilliaries. I decided that the galvanised steel framed Td5 doors with the zinc coated steel skin would be just as good as a Puma door and would be simpler to fit. They are also slightly cheaper.
John |
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31st Mar 2017 1:14pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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DumDum is no longer made, however Unibond roof and guttering sealant is excelent for the job, it's butyl not silicone based. |
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31st Mar 2017 5:18pm |
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