 | Home > Tdi > 300tdi Overheating |
 
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1786   
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Try carefully removing the threaded plug on top of the thermostat with the engine running - when its cool obviously - and check the pump is actually pumping.
Then I suppose start with basics and make sure radiator is clean and in blocked inside and out, that he fan is working, not that it will do much in this weather - Best of luck Keith |
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16th Feb 2017 10:15pm |
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| jr1104 Member Since: 05 May 2016 Location: England Posts: 78  
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Thanks for the suggestion. When checking the pump, what should I expect to see? Will a bit of coolant be flowing through the thermostat housing, or will it start pumping out the hole?
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16th Feb 2017 10:26pm |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10782 
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Hi, the only time my landy temperature gauge went up to the red was when the viscous fan stopped working, so it was time for a new one, cured the problem for me, hope this helps you
 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.
Keeper. Clayton. |
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16th Feb 2017 10:43pm |
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| StephenO Member Since: 03 Dec 2010 Location: Glasgow Posts: 246 
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A blockage in the Y is quite common, had issues with that before 2007 Defender Puma Tonga Green
2015 Range Rover Sport Autobiography Corrie Grey 1968 Series 2a Bronze Green 1995 Defender 90 Coniston Green 2005 Discovery 3 Zambezi Silver |
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16th Feb 2017 10:59pm |
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| Conan Member Since: 05 Sep 2016 Location: the danger zone Posts: 53  
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Check if all your grounds are good also. It happened to me when I removed my safari door to repair it. I installed a used one in place of mine, and didn't bother fixing the ground wire on the door. Took the Defender for a ride and the temperature gauge went in the red. Had to stop but everything seemed normal. I fixed it back and the problem was solved! One of those little things...
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17th Feb 2017 10:48am |
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| jr1104 Member Since: 05 May 2016 Location: England Posts: 78
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Interesting point about the grounds, I've been re-doing the rear lamp and tow electrics wiring recently as it was all a mess. I think this is the first proper trip I've done since then...
Are you suggesting it's just the temp sender that is reading wrong then, and the actual coolant temp is fine? Or could the electrics affect some part of the coolant system? |
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17th Feb 2017 12:03pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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Given you noticed the air temperature first, it seems more likely to be a mechanical fault
 Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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17th Feb 2017 12:55pm |
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| Conan Member Since: 05 Sep 2016 Location: the danger zone Posts: 53
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I think that it's an electrical problem. The coolant temp is (should be) fine. In my case it was fine. I had enough coolant and all the hoses were at a reasonable temperature. I found about the bad ground on another forum. I did a quick search on google as soon as I got home, and I read that it is a common problem on Defenders. If I'm not mistaken, there are not too many grounds on a Defender and if one is not good, it can mess things up pretty quickly. It did the trick for me, I just reattached the ground to the door, and the gauge went back to normal. If I were you I'd check the ground wires, specially since you've worked on some electrical components, it could save you a lot of unnecessary work around the rest of the cooling system. If they are fine, then keep digging. but It could be a quick fix. hope this helps. |
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17th Feb 2017 1:26pm |
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| jr1104 Member Since: 05 May 2016 Location: England Posts: 78
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Thanks, I'll definitely give that a try next.
I had a quick look at the car this afternoon, and the water pump is working (found out by starting it up and watching it rapidly start flowing out the thermostat bleed plug hole, which I quickly re-fitted :/) I then gave it a fast idle for 10 mins then a short drive around. Once warmed up, the temp gauge was bang in the middle for the whole time, and all the right pipes were hot once the thermostat had opened. My only other thoughts left (apart from electrical issue) are an air block that just happened to be in the wrong place (will be flushing and re-filling/bleeding anyway after having the thermostat out). Also, as an aside, should the 300tdi have a viscous or electric fan? I thought it was viscous, but mine has an electric one... |
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17th Feb 2017 6:40pm |
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| Ramsay Member Since: 30 Sep 2015 Location: Moffat, Dumfries & Galloway Posts: 627 
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Viscous fan as standard. Lots retro fitted with electric fans.
Have you seen the electric fan operating ? 1995 Defender 110 CSW 1971 SIIA Lightweight |
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17th Feb 2017 7:05pm |
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| Scotm Member Since: 28 Feb 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 666 
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What condition is the radiator in? Fins could be blocked up or corroded away?
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18th Feb 2017 7:41am |
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| jr1104 Member Since: 05 May 2016 Location: England Posts: 78
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I will be checking the flow through the radiator when I drain it and flush the system. It seems in good condition externally though, vains haven't rusted or crumbled away and both top and bottom pipes were warm when the engine was running at temperature.
I'll check the electric fan, as that may be a culprit, but given it was overheating when I'd only been driving for 10 mins at about 7am it seems unlikely it would really be needed? P.s. Thanks for everyone's help with this, it makes this forum a great place to be  |
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18th Feb 2017 9:25am |
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| Balvaig Member Since: 19 Feb 2016 Location: Fife Posts: 732 
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There is an article in LRO magazine, March 2017 page 87 which describes your symptoms and identifies the main earth strap as the problem. May be worth checking out, as iit is a simple fix.
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18th Feb 2017 9:46am |
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| jr1104 Member Since: 05 May 2016 Location: England Posts: 78
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An update for everyone, think I've found the problem...
Took it for another drive on Sunday afternoon, and after about 7-8 miles the temperature started rising over half-way again. I pulled over and opened the bonnet whilst it was still running, and spotted that the electric fan hadn't come on. I had a good look around the wiring and relay for it, but couldn't see anything untoward. Figuring I'd just let it cool down then do the last couple of miles home, and check it properly with a multimeter there, I closed the bonnet and got back inside. It then occurred to me that there was a mystery switch on the dashboard that I'd never been able to trace. Gave it a click, and the fan came on! Looks like whoever retrofitted the electric fan also put in an override switch. So I drove the rest of the way home with the fan on 100%, and the temp was fine. So, long story short, it looks like the thermistor that controls the aftermarket fan is not activating (checked the voltage across its terminals when the engine was hot, and got nothing through. Flick the switch and those terminals jump to 12v). Has anyone used the X-Eng thermostatic fan switch? Is it worth the money, and will it just be plug and play with the control system for the Kenlowe electric fan on mine? Thanks again for everyone's help |
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22nd Feb 2017 6:30am |
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