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Hufflepuff

Member Since: 25 Oct 2014
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 727

R380 vibrations at high revs under load

Good afternoon Landroverers,

My 2005 td5 90 (82,000 miles) has developed a moderate vibration/shake seemingly from the transmission above around 2500rpm when under full load, most noticeably in 3rd and 4th gear when getting up to speed on a motorway slip road for example.

The engine is remapped so the torque is significantly above standard. It also had a new clutch and DMF 12 months ago. The vehicle is 2" lifted with well greased Gwyn Lewis front double cardon and rear heavy duty propshafts, but I don't think the vibration is coming from these.

I have a trip to the Pyraneese booked in the second half of 2017, so want the car to be as reliable as possible by then. With this in mind, I am thinking of removing the gearbox and taking it to Ashcroft to be rebuilt and have the heavy duty bearings fitted (and maybe their uprated centre diff pin done too).

Has anyone experienced similar symptoms themselves? There is no vibration at all under part load or at lower rpms - and as well as the noise you feel it quite strongly through the gear stick. Am I wrong in suspecting the mainshaft bearings?

Regards,
Chris.

5th Feb 2017 4:31pm

mk1collector

Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

I had a vibration at higher speeds which ended up being the crank pulley, the rubber balancer that is bonded to the pulley starts to degrade. Do you get a sort of chirp noise when switching the engine off? If so this could be your problem too. You could get a pry bar Inbetween the pulley and block while the engine is off and see if there feels to be a lot of play. Ray
My build thread
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html

5th Feb 2017 4:51pm

rallysteve

Member Since: 10 Feb 2014
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 2225

2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Keswick Green

Propshaft UJs probably. Give them a good check for play.

Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread

5th Feb 2017 5:48pm

Hufflepuff

Member Since: 25 Oct 2014
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 727

Two things to check, thanks gentlemen. The tensioner is making a noise since the local indy changed the belt (despite me asking them to change the tensioner too). Somewhat surprised that that would cause this noise though.
As for the UJs, I hope they are good. I grease them after each off roading trip, and they have less than 5k miles on them, but I will check them too, thanks.

5th Feb 2017 10:12pm

grafty99

Member Since: 15 Aug 2012
Location: North Devon
Posts: 4785

Especially with a double cardon prop even the tiniest amount of play can cause a vibration

2002 90 Td5 Station Wagon
1990 Vogue SE
Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200
Td5 90 Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic50767.html
Tdi 110 Thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic69562.html
RRC Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic54492.html
Instagram http://www.instagram.com/george_grafton

5th Feb 2017 10:20pm

JWL

Member Since: 26 Oct 2011
Location: Hereford
Posts: 3443

I changed my drive belt tensioner at the weekend and it's lessened a lot of the vibration on the whole motor, still got other bits to sort though

6th Feb 2017 12:35pm

Hufflepuff

Member Since: 25 Oct 2014
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 727

How easy is it to change the tensioner? It looks suspiciouly like a job which I might start on then discover I am stuck without transport when I cannot put it back together again!

6th Feb 2017 6:11pm

JWL

Member Since: 26 Oct 2011
Location: Hereford
Posts: 3443

It's one of the easy jobs,take off the engine cover and plastic cover over the fan so you can see what you're doing. Whip the viscous fan off then get a socket on a long bar to lever back the tensioner to release the serpentine belt off the alternator and tensioner, push the slack down out of the way so the belt stays on the other pulleys so you don't forget which way round the different pulleys they go (don't ask me how I picked up that idea, there is another way the belt can go, it looks right but it's a good job the belt doesn't quite fit but it takes you a good time to realise

)
There is a 12 sided IIRC 9/16 AF headed bolt through the tensioner body, I used a 3/8 drive socket as it was thinner to get inside the recess of the tensioner body. Undo that, remember which way the tensioner pulley on the arm was facing and replace it with the new one. There is a lug that sticks out of the tensioner body that fits in a guide on the mounting face, just get that to pop in and pop it all back together. In good old Haynes manual speak, reassembly is a reversal of disassembly.
Jobs a good un

Having a fan spanner, thin walled 12 sided sockets and perhaps a helping hand to hold the tensioner back when putting the belt back on as it is easier to turn the engine with a socket on the crank bolt so you can feed the belt over the pulleys is an advantage, they don't have to be skilled, I enlisted my teenage son to hold the tensioner but you could tie it up to keep it in place.

7th Feb 2017 8:40pm

Hufflepuff

Member Since: 25 Oct 2014
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 727

Brilliant thank you JWL, I have all those bar the helping hand. I will get the tensioner ordered and get on and change it, cheers!

7th Feb 2017 10:28pm

JWL

Member Since: 26 Oct 2011
Location: Hereford
Posts: 3443

I bought a Bearmach one, exactly the same as the one(original) that came off. I do get a good deal at my local motor factors and had change to get two four pinta's of milk from a £20 note

7th Feb 2017 10:55pm

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