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hornet



Member Since: 04 Jan 2010
Location: Western Europe
Posts: 361

Heated Filter
For those of you who expect Diesel-problems due to brawn caused through low ambient temperatures, I did a heating trial, shortly described now.



I used a trace heating for 12V, 8m heating cable with 120W (~ € 35,--) and wrapped it around a standard filter-element, see picture.

I filled it up with 250ml of Diesel, measured Diesel-temperature inside the filter and surface temperature of heating-element (IR) continously. Diesel temperature was 7°C, filter ~ 20°C before start, I did not wait for balance. After start the temperature of the element-surface reached 60° within seconds and was able to heat up the diesel after 15 minutes to a temperature of 45°C, respectively close to 60°C diesel at 80°C surface after another 5min (20min at all).





The trial shows, that thera are "quick and dirty" solutions for the winter-filter-problems. Performance can be raised of course if you care for a suitable isolation with neoprene materials such as "Armaflex" or similar. I guess that a preheat-phase of ~10min without and another 5min with running engine would be a good start. Have the 10A in mind!
Post #598775 3rd Feb 2017 9:18am
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dfilipu



Member Since: 06 Feb 2016
Location: Savoie
Posts: 5

France 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Alpine White
I stay in alpine ski resort. Here we got a special diesel for winter ( filtration capability to -20°C ) but the defender is very sensible. So I use same pad for heat my filter. It's really effective but I always put a new filter in the cubby box. If old filter is colmated I change it and go. If you need power, pad can't heat diesel fast enough.
If pression is too low ( paraffin in filter ) light appear in dashboard. You must use ODB apps to remove default code and the light.
Post #599149 4th Feb 2017 9:51pm
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big110



Member Since: 02 Nov 2016
Location: Sweeden
Posts: 342

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
what heater pad would be recommended for the filter?
Post #609406 14th Mar 2017 2:21pm
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hornet



Member Since: 04 Jan 2010
Location: Western Europe
Posts: 361

Post #609414 14th Mar 2017 3:15pm
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big110



Member Since: 02 Nov 2016
Location: Sweeden
Posts: 342

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
I wish i could read that website Big Cry
Post #609416 14th Mar 2017 3:20pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

Post #609417 14th Mar 2017 3:27pm
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nakatanenga



Member Since: 12 Nov 2010
Location: Neumarkt
Posts: 546

Germany 
Or use this kit. Fully prewired with timer relais, silicone 100W heater. All automotive grade and waterproof.

https://www.nakatanenga.de/elektro/geraete...und-taster WANTED:

SII or SIII in max 1.5k
Post #609421 14th Mar 2017 3:39pm
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big110



Member Since: 02 Nov 2016
Location: Sweeden
Posts: 342

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
sent a PM to you, Naka
Post #609430 14th Mar 2017 4:58pm
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AMBxx



Member Since: 24 Jul 2016
Location: York
Posts: 1032

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Orkney Grey
In the past, wasn't it standard practice to add a little petrol in the winter to prevent problems? Is it still done? What problems could it cause?
Post #609580 15th Mar 2017 9:13am
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dfilipu



Member Since: 06 Feb 2016
Location: Savoie
Posts: 5

France 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Alpine White
I use Wolverine Fh50 model and a heated cable on fuel pipe. But I think it's better to use only a fh100 model. The 50 is too small and you must ride slowly to give Time to heat fuel.
Yes in Old car you can add à small ratio of petrol but now with very high pressure injector you must special additive.
Post #609669 15th Mar 2017 6:33pm
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