↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home > In Car Electronics > Alpine head unit won't power up until the car is warm.
Post Reply  Down to end
Page 1 of 1
Print this entire topic · 
John Fair



Member Since: 10 May 2016
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 150

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Santorini Black
Alpine head unit won't power up until the car is warm.
Just wondering if anyone has had this happen to them. 2013 110 utilitiy xs so I think it's the one up from base but no sub etc. Anyway it has always failed to turn on when it's frosty out until the cab has warmed up. I haven't even looked yet but as it's winter this is a daily occurrence and I have to sing myself lots more than everyone would like. I guess the obvious is to pull the unit and see if the power drops out when cold or if it's the unit itself. Just wondering if anyone has experienced this. Also does anyone have the wiring diagram for the radio as if it's a power supply fault it will quicken me finding it. Thanks.
100% related to cold.
Post #589441 2nd Jan 2017 1:59pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554


Click image to enlarge
Post #589462 2nd Jan 2017 4:30pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20350

United Kingdom 
Does it have a removable face plate? $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪
Post #589469 2nd Jan 2017 4:56pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
John Fair



Member Since: 10 May 2016
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 150

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Santorini Black
Thanks for the wiring and yes it has a removable faceplate. Makes no difference if you keep the faceplate warm.
Post #589636 3rd Jan 2017 12:02am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
mk1collector



Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

England 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey
Try cleaning the contacts for the face plate on the head unit Ray
My build thread
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html
Post #589640 3rd Jan 2017 12:39am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20350

United Kingdom 
Yep, that may help.
I used to do the same and it did but got worse, an issue I'll have to sort out.
I'm sure it's because the contacts are loose due to the Defender vibrations over time.
Creates higher resistance and dirty contacts and a bad connection, made worse with contraction of cold weather.

I'm going to spend day when I get time try hard wiring the two by soldering with a mini wiring section made up.
It may sort my issues, it may not, hooefully it will.
Currently my HU has been knocked out now for well over a year, I haven't had the time spot sort it out.
It is getting quite aged though, so if it doesn't work if sort it's self out I wouldn't be surprised.


It'll make tye HU flash on and off, not turn on, randomly shut off.
All those sort of things, if I had another I'd avoid a removable faceplate anyway. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪
Post #589668 3rd Jan 2017 9:46am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
miker



Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1763

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Rioja Red
I have an alpine in the other car. Getting on for 8 years old now and the connection between faceplate and unit can be very temperamental when cold. Do you tend to remove the faceplate when you park up? I think part of my problem is that I leave it in and the contacts have lost their springiness.
Post #589688 3rd Jan 2017 11:46am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20350

United Kingdom 
Yeah, used to leave it in.

Only cure I can think of is individually soldering wire tails to each corresponding pin.
No need to I.D them if you methodically match one by one.
The bigger issue is to cut the front out of the HU to allow for extra room, providing there is some room to play with.

If I get another one day, I really don't want a removable face plate.
That's if it's 1DIN or 2 DIN isn't an issue.
Although rather 'old hat' now anyway, I never ran CD's.
I swear it'd only be a matter of time before it'd go colters pear shaped due to a pot hole or similar.
Defenders are not forgiving at all for that kind of thing. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪
Post #589707 3rd Jan 2017 12:49pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
John Fair



Member Since: 10 May 2016
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 150

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Santorini Black
Sorry for the delay replying. Your prognosis sounds reasonable as I don't always remove the faceplate but would feel it's slightly worse if I have. I shall look into that. The only contradiction is it's done it from 3k miles. I did ask lr if it was covered under extended warranty but he didn't know 😂😂😂 putting the care into customer.
TBH to a point I'm not overly bothered as it might prompt me to change it out as I find it overly fiddly for a bouncy defender.
Post #589910 3rd Jan 2017 9:49pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Post Reply
Post Reply  Back to top
Page 1 of 1
All times are GMT

Jump to  
Previous Topic | Next Topic >
Posting Rules
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum



Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
DEFENDER2.NET RSS Feed - All Forums