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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3639   
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think someone on here had LED headlight that flickered without the up-rated loom but maybe their switch was on the way out DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,
I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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24th Dec 2016 7:31pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17351 
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Steve,
I rewired my front end myself since no off-the-shelf product does what I wanted. Were your headlights illuminated when you measured the voltage, or had you disconnected one to take the reading? |
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24th Dec 2016 8:19pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20299
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Both, all seemed okay. But not up to 14.2v alternator voltage.
I've got my eye on the Landreiziger looms, there is a plastic and ceramic version. The latter is out of stock, not too much point with LED's but still good to have in case of temporary swaps etc maybe in the future. Thing that I'm not sure on is that most LED headlights are regulated by their driver, normally to 12.2v approx. Whilst alternator voltage would make a great difference to halogen I'm unsure as to the effect with LED's. The flicker at rest is a bit of a concern, can't see why that would happen unless the loom had voltage leaking in it which shouldn't be at all. I guess, it will be better with loom regardless and then fit and forget. But the gains to be achieve in doing so remain to be seen with LED's at least. I suppose they do still pull a fair bit if current, even if a lot less than halogen. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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24th Dec 2016 8:39pm |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816  
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The flickering was me who mentioned that. But my comments are a bit misinterpretated here now, so to be clear....
I had the Speaker EVO for several years from before I had installed the Landreiziger loom. The Speakers never would flicker when the engine was running/alternator working. Juice reaching the headlights then via the standard loom/switch would always be above 12V. The Speakers start only flickering some when juice to them is below 12V. This only happened when I would turn the Speakers on with contact contact on but without engine running, so only the 12.5V or so of the battery would run via the switch, etc. to the Speakers. The loss of juice via the switch and original wiring in such a case would mean that actual voltage reaching the Speakers would be under 12V, hence the flickering. When the engine is running, alternator is producing 14.3V or so, and there never would be any flickering at all as voltage losses would then never bring it to under 12V at the Speakers. Once I installed the Landreiziger loom, there never was any flickering again when I would turn the lights on with contact on/engine off. The full 12.5V of the battery at rest would then be directed via the new loom to the Speakers. Speakers only will flicker when voltage is under 12V. As long as the Speakers get 12V or more, say about the full 14V or more produced by the alternator, the light production will be constant, no difference between 12V or 14.3V. Such difference only exists with halogens. Above to avoid misunderstanding of my comments in the other thread. I have the Landreiziger loom now for many years with plastic connectors, now also with my cristals and upgraded halogen bulbs. Not the slightest problems. Frankly every Defender and most other cars come off the line with plastic H4 connectors, and I never heard of a Defender where the H4 connectors would melt. I guess that only would happen with people installing 100W H4 bulbs, but that is another story. Merry Xmas, off to the airport now for our 3rd Xmas party tonight in 3 days and in as many countries.  
Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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25th Dec 2016 2:52am |
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| sako243 Member Since: 08 Jul 2014 Location: Wales Posts: 1218  
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Not to take this off topic I started another thread that is of some relevance. Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6 95 Defender 110 300Tdi |
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25th Dec 2016 5:17am |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3639
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Eric thanks for clarification, knew I had read it somewhere, have a great holiday DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,
I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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25th Dec 2016 6:18am |
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| OleDave Member Since: 19 Oct 2013 Location: CARDIFF Posts: 175 
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Hi Guys, my post seems to have stirred up many valued thoughts on lighting, all very relevant and very interesting to read, its xmas day today and all thoughts of headlights will have to be abandoned due to prepping the brussel sprouts, parsnip and turkey ready for family to consume when they all arrive, so will pick up on reading all the fantastic posts and info after the xmas break.
I will digest all the comments and hopefully make a decision one way or another in the new year and go for it, of course I will after fitting whatever post the results as to the outcome, even if my decision ends up a disaster as it may well help others decide. Again many thanks guys Have a lovey day today Regards Ole Dave |
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25th Dec 2016 10:22am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20299
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What H4 connectors do Noldens have?
I agree on Ceramic only for 100w but then they aren't legal anyway. I guess if Noldens are plastic the Landreiziger loom may as well too. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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25th Dec 2016 11:01am |
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| RoddyK05 Member Since: 08 Apr 2015 Location: Inverclyde Posts: 633  
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I ordered a loom before Christmas with ceramic ends. It was showing as out of stock, but an email reply from Landreiziger said they would make a set up - worth dropping them a mail to enquire. I currently have led trucklites on, but am going to swap to crystals and nightbreakers at some point as I was never keen on the 'dead' look of the led lamps which look kind of black. Very quick service from Landreiziger and a couple of wee Christmas sweets in the box too along with the spotlight loom with genuine switch I also ordered. Merry Christmas to you all 🎅🏻🎄🎉.
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25th Dec 2016 1:50pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20299
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Good to hear, and thank-you for the info.
That is exactly what I have done, I have dropped them an email. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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25th Dec 2016 3:18pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20299
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Out of interest, what is access like to the alternator.
I'm guessing there is a stud there and cable for output. Anyone know the torque setting for it, I'd imagine in the WSM somewhere. I may have to have a rummage though mine and see if I can find some info. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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25th Dec 2016 4:29pm |
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| Sadi Member Since: 23 Jul 2015 Location: Windhoek Posts: 334  
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On the 2.2 Puma access to the alternator is difficult but not impossible. Impossible to get torque wrench in there though - so use the appropriate spanner and tighten "nicely". It is easier from above - I checked from underneath whether it would be easier - but no go. Probably most important is to have enough natural light - sounds funny but it is just the way it is. Also to have it as the 1'st job of the day.
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25th Dec 2016 4:57pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20299
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Ah I see, typical tight access then.
Maybe an excuse to buy a small spanner set too.
Thank you ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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25th Dec 2016 5:30pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17351
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Even on the 2.4 the battery is far more accessible than the alternator.
When I rewired my headlights there was a package of other modifications I wanted to do at the same time, so I fitted an auxiliary fuse box in the battery compartment and took a heavy gauge feed from that to the relays for the lights. There are separate feeds from the aux fuse box for the horn relay and light bar relay, both of which I added at the same time. I see no need for ceramic plug bodies on the H4 connectors if you're using standard wattage bulbs and certainly not if you're using LEDs, which should generate negligible heat. |
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25th Dec 2016 6:29pm |
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