 | Home > Tdi > Funny clutch Behaviour on 300tdi |
 
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| ian series 1 Member Since: 17 Nov 2014 Location: south Posts: 3127   
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You may just need to adjust the master cylinder rod,
or worse case could be the dreaded clutch fork starting to wear through! Try adjustment first. 80" 80" 86" 88" 90" Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered. |
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18th Dec 2016 2:02pm |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2642 
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Check the fluid level. Also check for leaks, generally the master cylinder leaks clutch fluid down the pedal inside the vehicle and the slave cylinder out of the bottom of the bellhousing drain hole (unless there's a wading plug fitted). It's also worth checking the flexible hose to ensure it hasn't failed.
If all fluid levels and hydraulics are okay, it could be a problem within the bellhousing. Not much one can do about that (beyond an endoscope inspection) without removing engine/gearbox unfortunately. Pedal adjustment could be another suspect, though I would think that would come on gradually rather than a sudden change. In my experience sudden loss of clutch function (i.e. biting point goes right to the bottom then disappears totally) is down to failure of one or both of the hydraulic cylinders. I've had a few journeys where I've had to drive it home with no clutch which, while quite good fun, is not really very good for the gearbox! |
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18th Dec 2016 2:04pm |
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| sharkey964 Member Since: 05 Oct 2014 Location: On a muddy track Posts: 574  
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I would concur with Retro,just adding,if master or slave cylinder has gone,replace the other one aswell,as they usualy go within a short time of each other.
Marc |
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18th Dec 2016 5:31pm |
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| 300TDi CSW Phil Member Since: 03 Apr 2016 Location: Bracknell Posts: 750 
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This is probably (ok almost certainly) a belt and braces approach as the defender is relied upon for many duties including work, the family and towing decent sized trailers with stuff for scouts.
How of much of a job would it be to replace the clutch (its about 40k old and fitted when I had a recon gearbox fitted by ashcrofts), the clutch fork both cyclinders and the hose that connects them. In my head it makes sense as I dont know the history of most of the parts. The vehicle is coming up to 140k miles and 22 years old and for all I know a lot of it is original and possibly tired. 1995 300 Tdi Epsom Green - It's a keeper. Wide Track Sankey- In bits- Gone to a new home M0XQS |
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18th Dec 2016 6:13pm |
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| sharkey964 Member Since: 05 Oct 2014 Location: On a muddy track Posts: 574
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I set aside a full day to change a clutch.8 to 9 hrs.
Thats droping the gearbox. Changing the clutch,fork,bearing etc is not a big job,once the gearbox is split from the engine.It's that that takes the time. Marc |
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18th Dec 2016 7:38pm |
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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1763 
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Had my gearbox in and out in a day with 3 of us. Had an engine crane to take the load though, which definitely helped.
Could probably do it on a trolley jack though. |
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19th Dec 2016 11:54am |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2642
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Wouldn't change the clutch unless it needed it. They will do a lot more than 40k.
That said, I changed mine this time last year - not sure how many miles it had done but it was at least 100k as that's what I had put on it since purchase. Was just starting to get a bit juddery (though still functional) so I changed it as I had a few other jobs that required engine out to do, on removal the friction plate wasn't anything like worn out. |
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19th Dec 2016 7:06pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324 
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Original description sounds just like my faulty slave cylinder.
Easy to replace on the 300Tdi apparently? (compared to the puma!) And yes, even though I saw no leaks down the pedal, I swapped out the master also. Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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19th Dec 2016 8:07pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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This is a timely thread! Jumped into my 90 today (not driven it for over a week) and thought 'this clutch is biting very low'. Looked down at the floor to see a little damp patch under the pedal. Whipped the cap of the master cylinder to find it virtually empty so topped it up and normal service resumed. That's a job for the new year then
 Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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19th Dec 2016 9:01pm |
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| Blackhat90 Member Since: 31 Dec 2016 Location: Forfar Posts: 86 
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Landrvr/anorack " when replacing the clutch master cylinder , take out the whole pedal box, as theres a rod and nut to slacken, and space is minimal, you can flip pedal to access with socket,
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1st Jan 2017 8:00pm |
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| 300TDi CSW Phil Member Since: 03 Apr 2016 Location: Bracknell Posts: 750
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Well it all seems to be working now.
Thanks for the tip about removing the pedal box, don't think it would have been possible without. Master and slave cylinders replaced as well as the short flexible hose for good measure and joy ride I mean test drive undertaken. It feels better than it has felt in 5 years.
Just not entirely sure whether it has bled out properly as it seems to have taken very little fluid to fill it. 1995 300 Tdi Epsom Green - It's a keeper. Wide Track Sankey- In bits- Gone to a new home M0XQS |
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3rd Jan 2017 11:53am |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1841 
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Slight thread resurrection.... I did a search for clutch biting point and found this, which is a pretty exact match to the issue I'm now having.
I'm just like Phil - 300tdi, and pretty suddenly I've noticed that the clutch biting point has dropped to just above the floor. In hindsight it's maybe been dropping for a few weeks, just that it's not got to a really noticeable stage. So I've read through the replies here. I've checked the fluid level and it's absolutely fine - though there was some black 'gunk' looking very like old oil on the underside of the filler cap? I had noticed, over the last month or two an occasional, but regular 'groaning' noise when starting off, in either forward or reverse. It's maybe doing it during other gear changes too, just that I can't hear it at that stage. Does this point to the fork rather than anything else? I've no idea at all when the clutch would have been changed/looked at last. I keep on meaning to sort out the folder of paperwork and receipts and get a grip on the timeline of stuff. The gearbox was changed at about 65k, now done over 220k, but there's a niggling memory that something has been done since then. Ta. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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27th May 2018 8:23pm |
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