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Vogler

Member Since: 02 Nov 2014
Location: Brussels
Posts: 309

Clunk in the back when cornering

Since a couple of months there's a kind of clunk, twang or plong in the rear when cornering, but I don't manage in locating the issue. I think it has started after a soft offroad trip in the dunes of Marquanterre, which gave the suspension a mild workout. There's some play in the transmission, but it rather seems suspension related and doesn't happen when accelerating, braking or changing gears.

The car failed MOT due to a worn shock absorber in the rear and was subsequently approved once the shocks were replaced last week. So it has been looked at by MOT twice recently and they didn't notice any other problem. I hoped the shock absorber to be the cause, but the sound is still there. Bushes seem fine, I checked the springs for cracks and everything seems to be fixed and in place. Any ideas?

Regards,

Joris

9th Dec 2016 1:26am

agentmulder

Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Those noises as you've typed them remind me of a 'croink' I get sometimes from the rear when changing from moving forward to reverse and vice versa - often happens in driveways, moving slowly.

After checking shocks, springs, bushes etc. I now suspect the A-frame ball joint.

Need to find the time to open that can of 'cant-get-it-back-together-again' worms though.

Obviously it's far from proven, possibly some chassis/body/mount twist, prop/UJ, I dunno.

I've been thinking of mounting a smart phone down there, even if I cant see it, the audio might prove helpful.

Your thoughts? Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...

9th Dec 2016 2:43am

Vogler

Member Since: 02 Nov 2014
Location: Brussels
Posts: 309

Could very well be the A frame ball joint but I'm no expert. I remember from when I was looking for a Defender that a worn A frame ball joint could be diagnosed as a clunck when changing between driving forward/backward direction.
There are adjustable ball joints on the market (Gwyn Lewis) which allegedly just need to be adjusted instead never have to be replaced.

Maybe a Defender Sound Glossary topic is in order

Greetings,

Joris

9th Dec 2016 3:33am

agentmulder

Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

I had over an hours worth of fun realigning the axle to the chassis just to get one of the trailing arms back in last week end. (I parked on a slight upwards slope!).

I'd hate to think what it would be like for the chassis to fall off 'sideways' with respect to the axle when doing the A-frame. I suppose the springs and shocks will resist it quite a bit ... and the front end ... and theres no real reason to if it's designed to be stable... aaaaand I use both the LR jack and a hilift on the crossmember points - but yeah, I don't know what I don't know (yet).

Anyhoo, I get off topic - unless of course, your issue is the A-frame socket

Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...

9th Dec 2016 3:44am

gazman

Member Since: 17 Aug 2015
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 652

the a frame on mine was good fun. Trying to get the ball joint out of the rear axle. At one point we had the weight of the landy plus two blokes in the back being supported by and acro trying to press it out.
In the end we used a die grinder and cut it out. The axle didn't move sideways when removed. it twisted forward and the nose of the diff lowered btw 2014 - current ..... 2003 defender td5 90 (my car)
2009 - current .... 2005 zx10r

9th Dec 2016 7:42am

agentmulder

Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Sorry to hi-jack the thread with A-frame discussion, but it may well be related.. It's actually just prompted me to order a new one and see on mine.

^^ Sheesh, so the taper was well and truly seized huh? Did you try the steering linkage/hub 'two-hammers' technique?

If the axle/diff rotated then that would be one reason a taper would prefer to stay put too. Did you un-rotate it my simply winding up the new ball joint in to it receptacle or something more civilised?

Unless I'm mistaken the WSM doesn't mention how to remove it, it does cover the arms, where it states:

"Support rear of chassis on stands, allow axle to hang freely"

.. but nothing on the ball joint that I can see, unless it's in another section... I know the sway bar castle nuts go to 40 Nm, but the A-frame ball hardware is a bit gruntier huh

Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...

9th Dec 2016 8:31am

gazman

Member Since: 17 Aug 2015
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 652

my best mate has a garage. We tried supporting and jacking the nose of the diff to get any load of it, heat on the a frame( but mine is a td5 90 so was close to the plastic tank), a track rod end removal tool, two hammers, easing oil. You name it we tried it and he has done a few already.
Mine was just such a son of a bi*ch nothing would shift it. No idea why, it was only 70k miles and in good general condition. 2014 - current ..... 2003 defender td5 90 (my car)
2009 - current .... 2005 zx10r

9th Dec 2016 9:24pm

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