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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
Not sure if this is 2.2 or 2.4 but it looks like what I remembered my 2.4 to be like:


Click image to enlarge


Maybe if you gave your lines enough time to drain they'll be clear anyway.

This is all covered in the WSM... I'd suggest reading it for the filling and first start procedure, you don't want to be driving around with a huge air gap in there for too long. Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #581488 30th Nov 2016 12:12am
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Okan



Member Since: 17 Oct 2016
Location: Geneva
Posts: 138

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hi!

When you say all fuel cooler hoses, there are four hoses. I remove them all? Or just the two of the bottom?

About the cap on the header we are well talking about this?

https://www.google.ch/search?q=defender+2....BFNqQuM%3A

Best regards
Post #581509 30th Nov 2016 7:44am
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
I cant recall the routing, two will be coolant, the other two will be fuel. So removing all four will most certainly entail draining your fuel return lines, good times. Shocked

Best check the work shop manual, freely downloadable after a search or two on the interweb. Thumbs Up Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #581512 30th Nov 2016 7:50am
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Okan



Member Since: 17 Oct 2016
Location: Geneva
Posts: 138

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
HI

Thanks for the advises. I allready downloaded the workshop manual but sometime for a novice like me it's not evident.

Regards
Post #581565 30th Nov 2016 10:49am
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Okan



Member Since: 17 Oct 2016
Location: Geneva
Posts: 138

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
agentmulder wrote:
Not sure if this is 2.2 or 2.4 but it looks like what I remembered my 2.4 to be like:


Click image to enlarge


Maybe if you gave your lines enough time to drain they'll be clear anyway.

This is all covered in the WSM... I'd suggest reading it for the filling and first start procedure, you don't want to be driving around with a huge air gap in there for too long.


Hi!
I just read the procedure to filling coolant and first start. I m surprised to put the engine at 3000rpm for one minute when engine is cold. Could it not damage it?


Click image to enlarge


Regards
Post #581861 1st Dec 2016 8:50am
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
Coolant is driven through the system by the engine turning and you gotta start somewhere right?

Keep in mind the engine will/should still be cold in that period Thumbs Up

Regarding not being complete until the thermostat has opened:

Depending on your weather and driving style this could mean quite a few trips up hills to get there. I was lucky enough to have a diagnostic tool sensing the engine/coolant temps so I could tell, not sure what to do without one...

Ask the thermostat nicely? Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #581863 1st Dec 2016 8:56am
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Okan



Member Since: 17 Oct 2016
Location: Geneva
Posts: 138

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hi!

Thanks for answer!

So if I well understand
1- I fill coolant to the cold level of expansion tank
2- I start my engine and I go for a short trip unill my thermostat opening
3- I carrefully open the expansion tank cap to release pressure
4- I let the engine cooling down
5- I top up coolant to the cold level

Is it correct or forgot I something?

Regards
Post #581873 1st Dec 2016 9:43am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20453

United Kingdom 
Okan - You should follow the bleeding process according to the WSM first.
Then your procedure is fine, then keep an eye on the level at cold for a while as it will need topping up then it'll steady and no more top ups will be needed.
I done the bleeding on mine all cold, to get the thermostat to open you will indeed need to drive it up to temp.
Once your back, let it go cold and top up to cold level.
Be sure to close the bleed valve once bled, it's easy to forget.
And it is indeed the same as pictured above.

The WSM seems more complicated than it really is, once the bleed process is complete there is no more work to do accept checking and top up. No Guts, No Glory.
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪


Last edited by custom90 on 1st Dec 2016 1:04pm. Edited 2 times in total
Post #581916 1st Dec 2016 12:16pm
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Okan



Member Since: 17 Oct 2016
Location: Geneva
Posts: 138

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hi!
Thanks a lot for advice!

I will do it this sunday and let you know. I'm waiting for some parts before starting it.

Best regards
Post #581920 1st Dec 2016 12:54pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20453

United Kingdom 
Thumbs Up No Guts, No Glory.
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪
Post #581922 1st Dec 2016 1:02pm
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Okan



Member Since: 17 Oct 2016
Location: Geneva
Posts: 138

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hi!

I well done the coolant change. Thanks for your help guys.

My puma is now equiped with a new thermostat PEL500110 new coolant and viscous fan spacer. I'm ready for high temps of next summer. I hope to solve my overheating problem.

I didn't noticied any difference about the heater. It works fine.

I'll let you know.

Regards
Post #582736 4th Dec 2016 9:06pm
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