 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Wiring and batteries - Best practice |
 
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| VeeTee Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Somewhere Posts: 1512  
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Two batteries will fit in the seatbase compartment.
I would defenitely power the winch from the starter battery, part of the current will be delivered bij the alternator and part by the battery. If you power the winch from the accessoiry battery, the switch and relay connecting the batteries must be capable for very high current. (e.g. 300 amps). I fitted two batteries in the seatbase, and use a Cyrix VSR (voltage sensitive relay) to connect the two batteres when the engine is running. The winch is connected (via a heavy duty manual switch) to the starter motor, in order to minimise the cable length. The cable from first battery to starter motor is already present and capable enough to carry the current needed for the winch. When winching, the engine is always running so the the starter motor will not run together with the winch. Cheers, Vincent 1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold) 1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold) 1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold) 1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold) 2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold) 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold) MySite |
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15th Nov 2016 8:17pm |
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| itolond Member Since: 16 Jan 2016 Location: Singapore Posts: 193  
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Thanks Martin,
i am using a BlueSea 120amp dual battery setup (Automatic Charging Relay), i am guessing this will fit the bill? |
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15th Nov 2016 8:23pm |
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| VeeTee Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Somewhere Posts: 1512
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Martin?
A winch under heavy load may well draw 300 Amps or more. If you power the winch from the second battery, a great deal of that may come from the connected first battery - so in this case the 120A relay is no good. However, as I explained, best practise is to power the winch from the first battery. In that a case 120A relay is sufficient, for charging current only to second battery or (relatively small) current equalising between the two: if the winch draws 300 A, 70-100 A is coming from the alternator, and 200 from the first battery. There will be a equalising current from second to first battery, but that will be relatively small in comparison to the case when the winch is solely powered from the second battery. Cheers, Vincent 1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold) 1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold) 1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold) 1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold) 2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold) 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold) MySite |
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15th Nov 2016 8:39pm |
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| RoddyK05 Member Since: 08 Apr 2015 Location: Inverclyde Posts: 633  
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He has probably had an email alert that there is a reply from "martin@defender2.net" and thought you were Martin? I know it's confused me a couple of times - but that's not difficult
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15th Nov 2016 10:07pm |
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| itolond Member Since: 16 Jan 2016 Location: Singapore Posts: 193
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yes that would be a correct assessment - My Bad...
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16th Nov 2016 3:10am |
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| VeeTee Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Somewhere Posts: 1512
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Cheers
 Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold) 1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold) 1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold) 1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold) 2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold) 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold) MySite |
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16th Nov 2016 7:14am |
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| xcentric Member Since: 17 Jan 2016 Location: Midlands Posts: 247 |
T Max split charge system is what Ihave in my Disco, and will be putting same into Defender. Ensures batteries isolated for use (hotel/starting), can be linked (jump start, winching), and charges starter first then hotel when starter charged. Easy to fit, easy to use (fit and forget).
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16th Nov 2016 7:55am |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971  
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I have a similar-ish setup to VeeTee. Cyrix 230A VSR with manual combine and two batteries (standard flooded lead acid) under the seat. Winch isolating solenoid feeding dedicated winch cabling from the starter battery.
When winching I'd have the engine running and the batteries manually combined because I wouldn't want the VSR disconnecting - that's just going to make things worse. Up to about 400A to my winch, it's a 150A alternator so if we say 100 from the alternator and 150A from each battery that would seem about right. Even if your engine has died and you're trying to winch you're probably still best to take it from both batteries. If you haven't already bought the Optimas I wouldn't. You can do a lot better for the same money (get an Odyssey) or just as well for much less. Unless you need them to work upside down I'd question the need for AGM batteries too - you can draw something like an Obyssey down further than a conventional flooded battery but given you're not short on space in the Defender battery box unless you've got some very special needs I'd save the money and buy a good, "normal" battery. |
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17th Nov 2016 8:59pm |
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