 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Off Road/Recovery Gear |
 
|
|
|
| John P Member Since: 26 Dec 2013 Location: West Sussex Posts: 311   
|
I got all mine from Devon 4x4. Go with someone you can trust.
|
||
31st Oct 2016 1:17pm |
|
| YOLO110 Member Since: 14 Feb 2015 Location: Perth Oz and Stansted UK Posts: 1641 
|
In Oz, ARB are highly regarded with all of this stuff.
If you can find a UK ARB distributor, I would go with that... Just a pity about Brexit and the £ collapse against the Oz $...   YOLO... You Only Live Once... |
||
|
31st Oct 2016 3:04pm |
|
| YOLO110 Member Since: 14 Feb 2015 Location: Perth Oz and Stansted UK Posts: 1641
|
In Oz, ARB are highly regarded with all of this stuff.
If you can find a UK ARB distributor, I would go with that... Just a pity about Brexit and the £ collapse against the Oz $... YOLO... You Only Live Once... |
||
|
31st Oct 2016 3:07pm |
|
| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
|
There are lots of places that sell this sort of stuff. The bottom line is look for equipment that is properly and sufficiently rated.
If you're not sure what you want then you could do worse than visit Challenger 4x4 near Farnham. I went there recently and noticed that they have a reasonable selection of this kind of gear on display. I'd question your need for a kinetic rope. Whilst they can be an incredibly useful tool, they can also be very dangerous in inexperienced hands. The same results can usually be achieved in a more controlled manner with more regular kit, albeit at the expense of a bit more time. If you really do need one then I believe David Bowyer sells ones that are properly rated for the typical weight of Land Rovers, as opposed to ex-MOD ones designed for trucks and the like. Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
||
|
31st Oct 2016 3:59pm |
|
| bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069 
|
Another vote for Devon 4x4
 |
||
|
31st Oct 2016 5:03pm |
|
| Devon-Rover Member Since: 22 Jan 2015 Location: South Devon Posts: 913 
|
with the same level of kit with a better value I would suggest you check out First Four and their Website
I have used their gear and it has lasted well and they use proper tested shackles and the ropes are good quality. |
||
|
31st Oct 2016 6:53pm |
|
| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1762 
|
For strops and shackles I went to a local lifting equipment supplier. Same stuff, much cheaper than many of the 4x4 suppliers.
I will be getting a snatch strap or nylon rope at some point, probably the one from Damar. |
||
|
31st Oct 2016 6:56pm |
|
| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8580
|
First piece of advice, buy from a well know reputable supplier. Avoid the el cheapo suppliers that sell on the likes of eBay. we sell a 2 tonne strap which is actually stronger then a 5 tonne strap on eBay. The 2 tonne strap has a 7:1 safety factor, i.e. break strength of 14 tonnes compared to the 5 tonne strap with a 1.2 safety factor or break strength of 6 tonnes.. What sort of standards? Basically there are no standards aimed at the leisure 4x4 market. Shackles? Go for a selection of 3.75 and 4.5 tonnes WLL. WLL = Working Load Limit (modern version of SWL + Safe working load limit) These have a safety factor of 6 or 7 (sorry slightly brain dead at the moment, can not remember exact factor) Material? Polyester or polyamide = Nylon? Lifting straps are made from polyester as it is basically low stretch. The same reason why seat belts are made from polyester, low stretch. Recovery straps, snatch straps, KERR are made from polyamide or nylon as they are higher stretch. The same reason why climbing harnesses and ropes are made from nylon as they need high stretch. Now a bit of basic physics . Force = mass x acceleration (or deacceleration) F = ma In identical situations a polyester strap will suffer from a much higher peak load then a nylon strap. Higher peak forces = more chance of something breaking. Basically do NOT use polyester straps in a snatch/recovery situation. Learn about the physical properties of each item in your towing/recovery kit and best/safe way of using the equipment. We have a wide range of equipment including our own recovery straps. HTH Brendan |
||
|
31st Oct 2016 9:09pm |
|
| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 7981  
|
Goodwinch and Devon4x4 Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
||
|
31st Oct 2016 9:21pm |
|
| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971 
|
What sort of situation are you likely to find yourself doing recovering in or being recovered from?
Do you have a winch? Are you talking about stuff to keep in the vehicle at all times or stuff to throw in the back when things are likely to get nasty? I have a winch on the front (but I wouldn't recommend buying one initially) so some of my recovery kit is based around having that. The most important thing I think is a decent shovel. I have two, the one I put in if I'm expecting issues or an issue would be awkward is this one: http://richardcarterltd.co.uk/product/soli...re-shovel/ and I have a smaller Roughneck one that I stash behind the seats all the time. The Richard Carter one is a really nice bit of kit. The Roughneck one is tolerable and doesn't take up too much space. Another cheap and useful thing are waffle boards. They're not just useful for recovery, they're handy at home too or if you're camping they can be used as a sort of door mat. The problem is they're bulky so I've made a spare wheel mount for mine. Like the big shovel, I only carry them if I think there's a chance I'll need them. When you're trying to get a vehicle like a D4 out of ruts it's stuck in, waffles come in extremely handy seeing as there aren't any decent front recovery points (or at least ones that are easy to get at quickly). Those two items have done all the recovery (primarily of other vehicles) that I've needed. Under my driver's seat in the box there, I keep all the "other stuff". Lifting slings: 2t rating (14t breaking strain), a few different lengths to be used to make a bridle, put round a tree, extend the winch or whatever. I prefer the ones with loops at either end rather than the endless ones. 2t is plenty. These have little to no give so aren't really that much use for un-sticking a stuck vehicle and not the best thing for towing with either. They give too much of a shock which isn't good for either vehicle and are therefor prone to break stuff. However something "dead" like that is exactly what you need when winching. Nylon recovery strop, 9m. I bought this from Brendan and Barbara at 4x4 Overlander and I trust them to supply decent stuff, particularly as Brendan has history in that sort of thing (industrially). This isn't a "snatch strap" but has a bit more give to it than the polyester lifting strops. That replaced a 4.5m nylon rope which I used previously and takes up about the same amount of space. 9m is good because off road it means you can get a fair distance away from the stuck vehicle, and on road you can double it up to 4.5m and keep within the legal limit. Rated shackles. I have 3.25t shackles for most stuff, and a couple of smaller ones (2t possibly?) in case I need to tow a small vehicle. When I've towed my dad's car I couldn't get a big shackle in the towing eye, so I had to use a small one. It's important to get rated shackles, they're usually galvanised. Skip the non-rated ones (usually shiny BZP) because you don't want a failure and a lot of metal flying through the air. Gloves, winching blanket etc. Gloves are good, but you won't need a blanket unless you've got a winch or want something waterproof to kneel on. The most important thing is to stop and think. What are the forces involved, what is stopping the vehicle moving, is there something you can do (like with a shovel) to make it easier to move the vehicle? If something breaks, what is most likely to break, what can you do to make it less likely to break and what happens if it does break? You don't want to pull a rusty rear crossmember off an old Defender and have that flying through your windscreen and in to the cab next to you or on to you. Bear in mind that straps can pop off tow balls, so don't use a tow ball if there's a decent alternative and if there isn't, put something there to hold the strap on to the tow ball. Do you have any front recovery points, and do you have any rear recovery points? If not, do you need them? If you come across a stuck stranger and you offer to help, what happens if you pull their front bumper off? Helping is good, but try not to make things worse 
Finally, it's good if you don't get stuck in the first place. If you're going somewhere boggy let your tyres down - it makes a big difference. You can quite happily go to 15 or 20PSI but make sure you have a plan for putting the air back in again. |
||
|
1st Nov 2016 8:57am |
|
| DonH2000 Member Since: 12 Jan 2015 Location: North Kent Posts: 551 
|
What not to buy: Britpart recovery kit as is is not very good.
Also as mentioned a kinetic snatch rope is just too dangerous without special training. You can look up on youtoob the sort of things that go wrong using these things.  Cheers Don. |
||
|
1st Nov 2016 9:48am |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
