Hello All.
Having read and benefited from many other "how to guides" I thought I would have a bash at my own.
Through work I have had dealings with NoiseKiller already so it was from my own experience that I chose this company - the art of soundproofing is very complicated but it is generally accepted that you need layers of product to be effective. Nothing against the other options that are available - indeed a bit of Dynamat in the doors may well come in future.
Step 1. Find a willing volunteer to help you lift off the bonnet - It is not heavy but it is a bit unwieldy and one slip and you will find yourself looking for chequer plate wing tops! My first volunteer was too busy on his balance bike so I had to go and find another one!
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Step 2. Spend some time with the white spirit and a cloth to clean all the little nooks and recesses that make up the two skin bonnet. Luckily mine was pretty clean - a few muddy water splashes and a line of crud from the aux belt was all that was needed to be removed.
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Step 3. As with so many accessories, instructions are a bit thin on the ground so get everything out of the bag and scatter it around so you can see what goes where. Most parts are cut to size and are pretty obvious where they should go.
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Step 4. I started with the small pieces first so I could get a feel for how they would stick - the answer is bloody well! - you don't get much of a second chance so take your time to get the alignment as good as you can. Remove the backing sheet completely and press down firmly from the center to the outside edges.
Step 5. For the two big bits in the bulge, I peeled back 3" from the long side and fold it over on itself - then you can align this straight edge with the straight edge of the reinforcement in the middle of the bonnet. The soundproofing is cut very slightly oversize so you need to keep it really close to the edge so you can just tuck the foil covering under the reinforcement. Push the long edge firmly and using your wallpaper seam roller push down to ensure a nice bond with the metal. Once your happy with that first strip pull another 3-4" of the backing strip off and repeat the roller process again. When you get to the last couple of inches the soundproofing will want to stick straight to the first thing it touches - which is inevitably not going to be the place where you want it. To help with this tear a couple of strips off the waxy backing paper, stick these to the underside of the material like it shows in this picture and you can use these strips as a sort of flexible lever to allow you to tuck the edge of the soundproofing under the edges of the reinforcing frame. When everything is in place gently pull the strips and they will come away from the backing and finish everything off with the roller
Click image to enlarge
Step 6. Now the fiddly bit. For the two outer long edges you get two strips for covering both sides. Because the size of the holes is smaller at the front than they are at the back of the bonnet these strips need to be fed in from the back and pulled through to the front. As we have already seen the self adhesive backing is VERY adhesive - and because you are also trying to stick it to a curved surface - you will find that you cannot just stuff it in the hole and slide it along! I decided that the best thing to do was to fold back the backing paper front to back half way and fold a corner of it over the top of the foil side. Now take one off the backing paper strips you used when fitting the bulge pieces and stick this onto the back of the material to act as a long finger that you can get a hold of. Feed the strip of material in from the first or second hole from the back of the bonnet to the front using the "finger" to help guide the strip through the holes and this will also prevent it sticking where you do not want it to. I pulled it all the way to the front so the leading edge went 10 -15mm under the front edge of the first hole. When it is in the right place push the strip down and then pull the guide strip out of the way. These strips cannot fill the entire recess as it would not be possible to get the strips through the hole so to keep it all looking neat I decided to align the long edge with the inner line of the reinforcement. Once the alignment is OK then pull the remainder of the backing strip off using the folded corner as the handle. Repeat the process for the second strip. It does not quite meet end to end with the first part - there will be a 20mm gap between the two but this will not be seen when the bonnet is refitted.
Click image to enlarge
Step 7. While the bonnet is upside down now is also a good time to get your ACF 50 out again! I sprayed a line all the way round the outer edges of the bonnet where the inner and outer parts are spot welded together. There is just enough paint applied here but we know that the Defender does not need much encouragement to start the rusting process!
Click image to enlarge
Step 8. Go and find your assistant again and re fit the bonnet, go and get a cup of tea and stand back and admire your work. SWMBO will really wonder why you need to do this but as we all know it is a very important part of the modification process.
Click image to enlarge
Now I have not had the chance to do a proper road test but even when you shut the bonnet you can tell that it has reduced the resonance that you get from the std arrangement.
I hope this helps? MY15.5 110XS CSW
1956 88" S1
2004 Tomcat 106 Comp safari
16th Oct 2016 8:38pm
JOW240725
Member Since: 04 May 2015
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 7906
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16th Oct 2016 8:49pm
MY15.5 110XS CSW
