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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6772   
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I might be wrong but can't you just remove the manifold and get it skimmed flat at an engineers? It shouldn't warp again surely. Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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6th Oct 2016 10:19pm |
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| 4RF RDS Member Since: 19 Jul 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 959  
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Agreed, it should not warp again and you can get the longer studs separately. And more importantly, how'd you know his name was Shirley?
 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam) 2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX) 1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy) 1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood) 1967 MGB GT Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats. H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956) |
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7th Oct 2016 12:29am |
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| Deerfold Member Since: 28 Aug 2016 Location: Shropshire Hills Posts: 54  
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Indeed guys, that would be an easy option but I can't really be without the truck, hence remove the old and replace with an already fettled one.
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7th Oct 2016 5:55am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17598 
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You could buy a second-hand manifold and get that skimmed and de-webbed before dismantling the vehicle. Studs etc are easily obtainable, but if you de-web the manifold there is probably no reason for using longer or stronger studs.
I have a spare un-modified TD5 manifold in good condition (and seemingly unwarped) surplus to my requirements which I haven't got round to advertising on here yet, I'd probab;y be looking at something around £45 plus p&p if it is of any interest. I bought it to use on my Disco 2 but then bought one already machined. |
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7th Oct 2016 9:07am |
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| Deerfold Member Since: 28 Aug 2016 Location: Shropshire Hills Posts: 54
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Thank you very much for the offer but I really want a manifold that has already warped and then fettled as it is a lot less likely to go again!!
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7th Oct 2016 11:42am |
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| Harry.O Member Since: 25 Jul 2014 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 716 
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Mine went a little while back, a friend had purchased a genuine warped manifold from eBay that the seller had de-webbed then machined so i was able to buy that from him. It's held up perfectly on a 3,000 mile trip around Europe last month, despite being pushed hard for long periods in the Alps. The only thing to note is that the paint isn't high temp so will peel off on the first long joruney.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-TD5-M...XQ1ZhTev3~ At the same time I fitted the Wurth studs that several people recommended, they are a Mercedes part but fitted perfectly. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/30122372977...rid=229508 2 of the original studs had sheared in the head but once they were out it was a very simple job. If you don't already have them then buy a set of easy outs and a couple of 3mm and 6mm drill bits as a precaution. There's a handy how-to guide that I used, the workshop manual was useful for the torque settings also. The only bit I did differently was to loosen the turbo-exhaust bolts but leave it in situ and split from the manifold in the engine bay. http://alex.threlfall.me.uk/?p=19  Click image to enlarge |
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8th Oct 2016 10:49am |
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| Deerfold Member Since: 28 Aug 2016 Location: Shropshire Hills Posts: 54
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Thank you, that is great, I shall get one ordered up and and the studs. I have some easy outs but I may just get a couple of spare drill bits!! Do you have the torque settings? Many thanks again.
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8th Oct 2016 11:50am |
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| Harry.O Member Since: 25 Jul 2014 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 716
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The manifold studs are 25nm as are the turbo to manifold ones. Afraid I can't remember the other ones off hand.
http://workshop-manuals.com/landrover/defe..._manifold/ The Haynes book of lies has a page of all the TD5 engine torque settings if you have one of those  |
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8th Oct 2016 2:14pm |
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| chinnus Member Since: 24 Aug 2012 Location: UK Posts: 119 
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That's what friends are for eh ? Harry.o
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12th Oct 2016 1:38pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6772
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Thread resurrection time
 I think my exhaust manifold has finally warped starting this morning I got a sort of high pitched whistle when accelerating for a few minutes until the engine warms up a bit then it stops, then when the engine cools down again we have the same again. I'm guessing this happens because the manifold expands a bit when it warms up so seals the gap. So onto my question, there are the de-webbed versions still available on eBay and there seems to be quite a few stainless versions now too so which are best to buy? Hoping to get it sorted quickly as people keep thinking I'm wolf whistling at them
Cheers Ray Ray My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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18th Jun 2017 5:14pm |
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| cobra_mark Member Since: 17 Feb 2015 Location: West Yorks Posts: 213 
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Would you advocate de-webbing a manifold if it was coming off for any other reason, got to sort out my core plug under the manifold on the side of the head? Certainly de-webbing would make it easy to remove a core plug if it leaked again.
Click image to enlarge |
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18th Jun 2017 6:48pm |
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| RoddyK05 Member Since: 08 Apr 2015 Location: Inverclyde Posts: 633  
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Have heard much about de-webbed manifolds. What is it exactly? Any before and after pics to help the less initiated visualise what is going on? What is the benefit of doing such a thing too?
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18th Jun 2017 10:27pm |
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| bankz5152 Member Since: 02 Feb 2017 Location: South London/North Kent Posts: 2192 
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De-webbing and re-skimming and re-fitting with longer studs & spacers/washer and copper flashed nuts means a few things
De-webbing - The idea is the manifold can move/flex under the heat created and prevent it from warping Re-skimming - Gets a warped manifold flat again Longer studs - Enables you to fit spacers/washers which allow it to flex more Copper flashed nuts - Means you can remove the nuts without sheering studs to remove the manifold much more easily.
Thats the one I have fitted to my 110, no issues what so ever so far. |
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19th Jun 2017 10:16am |
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