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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971   
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I've put a Bearmach rear (Safari) door seal on and that seemed like decent quality. It was cut slightly too long though.
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5th Oct 2016 12:34pm |
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| schuee Member Since: 16 Jul 2012 Location: Lincolnshire Posts: 378 
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Hi Kevin,
Do you find water in the footwell when you return to your Defender after a good downpour, or after you have been driving ? Only asking as I experienced exactly the same thing, though it would only appear after it had been stood still after it had rained. I noticed that around the windscreen small patches of bubbling paintwork, so took it into the dealers body shop under warranty to have it repaired, which meant the screen had to come out, so all the frame was cleaned painted and resealed before the windscreen went back in, also had new window blocks and seals at the same time as they had started to bubble up as well, now it can rain cats and dogs and it is bone dry in both footwells, I think I may require some rear door seals, as mine lets in water here, still they all do that sir!   |
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6th Oct 2016 11:35am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324 
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FWIW, I have Bearmach seals on the front here and they're working better than the worn out originals ...
Folk that sent them also sent an unbranded pattern seal by mistake. The quality difference was night and day. Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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6th Oct 2016 6:15pm |
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| Balvaig Member Since: 19 Feb 2016 Location: Fife Posts: 736  
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Not certain if this is of help. Had the same problem in my 2011 90. Found the water was running off the front of the gutter and hitting the door seal just on the door angle. Then ran in onto the door check strap and onto the floor. Put some sealant under the front of the gutter at the front to redirect the water flow, and changed the door seal.
Worked reasonably well. I used a genuine LR seal at £60, after trying unsuccessfully to remove the kink in the original seal at the door angle. |
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7th Oct 2016 7:44am |
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| Kevzeboy Member Since: 19 Jul 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 87 
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Thanks all. Just replaced with genuine Land Rover ones. Seem tighter and the old ones were full of water. Failing that, will get some sealer round windscreen rubber.
Thanks. |
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10th Oct 2016 8:16pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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I have just written this. (not sure how to do a link to the thread re air intake footwell leaks!)
I would say at least 70% of the late ones that come into me for undersealing have a leak on the passenger footwell. I have had clients who have had the whole dash board taken out and re-fitted to get to the bottom of the leak (unfortunately the dash and control knobs were not put back properly!), new door seals put on to no effect, horrible peeling sealant of various types plastered all along the bulkhead to windscreen frame gasket and even around the door seals and windscreen rubber 
Another possible area for water ingress is through the bulkhead where anything is bolted on in that area or where a fastener goes through. If you look at the rear corners of the engine bay/wing top you will see a useless rubber gutter strip that is pushed on to divert water away from the bulkhead! The problem is that there does not seem to be one cause for the leak although this specific footwell leak is very common, as it can happen on the drivers side as well. The only thing to do is work your way through the possible causes. Clients have said their vehicles have been cured of leaks from what I have done but I doubt all of them have but this info may help to cross problem areas off the list. This is what I do which may help and be added to by others hopefully who also have insight to a possible cure... Seal the windows... as per the water ingress guide with ArboMast Autograde Windscreen Sealing Compound. Seal the false windscreen hinge blocks... with the same ArboMast sealant. They unbolt from the inside, warning sometimes they are holding together the bulkhead and frame at great force and getting them back on can be tricky. Seal the possible gap in the foam gasket strip behind both hinge blocks with the same ArboMast sealant and run a line of ACF-50 along the entire length of the gasket under the windscreen frame. The foam strip stops and starts at these two points behind the hinge blocks! Seal all the fasteners on the bulkhead with any wax or water repelling spray e.g. ACF-50. Corroheat, Dinitrol high perfomance wax etc etc. I would not use Waxoyl however as it damages rubber gaskets and is not vibration proof (also just dries and cracks up, in fact I wouldn,t use waxoyl anywhere, there are far better products these days!) Renew door seals if they have become tucked up out of shape near the mirror hinge. Check air intake system... As per Def90 & Nitram thread. |
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11th Oct 2016 7:14am |
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