 | Home > Technical > So how did you torque your swivel to axle bolts? |
 
|
|
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17383   
|
Two alternatives:-
1. Obtain a 12-point crowfoot adaptor for your torque wrench and use that, 2. Don't bother with the torque wrench, since it really isn't necessary for these, they're not that critical. If you choose option 2, which is the common option, and are worried about being wildly off-target, you can always torque something accessible to the prescribed torque to get the feel of how tight it is and then use this a guide when tightening the joint. |
||
28th Sep 2016 8:35am |
|
| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324 
|
Well, they're kinda critical!
But I'll read it as: 'there are so many of them that it's hard to imagine 'tight' not being enough' (and within reason, about the same torqey tightness for each bolt) I have two wrenches, unfortunately the one with the insert style thingy only goes up to 50Nm, the larger one is standard 1/2" square... I'll get a feel for it as you say, I'll even do it on the axle with a bit of steel scrap around the right thickness being the swivel flange 
>>edit, actually I see what you mean about the adaptor, interesting - I need to think about how a 'click' style wrench would handle that extra lever arm though.... hrrm Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
||
|
28th Sep 2016 8:45am |
|
| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039  
|
My guidline is that the length off the spanner is the amount off torque you need.
So full strength off your arm should do it. 
Check after some days or 100km orso again and after another 500 km. Still tight then it is probably OK. Roel 1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
||
|
28th Sep 2016 9:15am |
|
| Roy5695 Member Since: 15 Feb 2014 Location: Cornwall Posts: 1123 
|
There is a calculation to work out the required torque setting when using an extended arm...
(torque amount multiplied by length of torque wrench) divided by (length of torque wrench plus length of extension) All length measurements should be taken from the centre of the pivot point and a pre determined point on the handle, sometimes have a mark or is stated in the leaflet that comes with it (or the middle of the hand grip) There is many how to's on google with diagrams |
||
|
28th Sep 2016 9:25am |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17383
|
What I meant of course was that the torque is not critical, not that the bolts are not critical. This obsession with every fastener being torqued is a modern thing, and I imagine is due to the relative scarcity of instinct and common sense in modern society.
|
||
|
28th Sep 2016 9:30am |
|
| Iggle piggle Member Since: 10 Sep 2014 Location: Wales Posts: 378 
|
Well said Blackwolf!
I Trained as & worked for many years as a Ford Technician in the 90's (or mechanic as we called it then!) & the "company" torque wrench only ever came out for head bolts! |
||
|
28th Sep 2016 10:34am |
|
| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
|
I personally find that most WSM stated torques or feel less than what expect.
I do like the precision one gets with a set of bolts all equally torqued however, but of course there's a few factors at play there, was the hole/bolt/nut drier than the last? How much copper grease/threadlock was there (which initially acts as a lubricant), was the non-threaded flange aligned well and not binding on the bolt shank so on and etc. Static vs. dynamic friction (for the double clickers). Alternate/star patterns, knocking/tapping the assembly. 'Revisit in half an hour' 
Anyways, I bought it so I'll use it to justify the $$  Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
||
|
28th Sep 2016 10:42am |
|
| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8030  
|
just do them as tight as you can with a single spanner Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
||
|
28th Sep 2016 1:02pm |
|
| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
as ^
|
||
|
28th Sep 2016 1:47pm |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17383
|
A Snap On 12-point long ring spanner is ideal for the job, if you're lucky enough to have one. The extra length allows precise tightening and a good balance to be achieved without having to exert excessive force.
|
||
|
28th Sep 2016 2:15pm |
|
| Lotus_esprit_s1 Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Uk Posts: 201 |
These are very good for the swivel bolts, I've had one for at least ten years now.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Motion-Pro-08-013...B000WJGXF0 |
||
|
28th Sep 2016 5:17pm |
|
| mikeh501 Member Since: 07 Jan 2013 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 1142
|
when i did mine this year im sure i read something about doing up hand tight, and then going a further 90deg with a rubber mallet on the spanner.
|
||
|
1st Oct 2016 8:23am |
|
| Harry.O Member Since: 25 Jul 2014 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 713 
|
Draper do an extra long 14mm spanner with a ratcheting ring on one end, i picked one up off eBlag for a tenner.
|
||
|
4th Oct 2016 9:08am |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17383
|
You may find that there is insufficient radial clearance round the bolt-head for a ratcheting ring. Remember also that a ratcheting ring will never be as strong as a non-ratcheting one.
|
||
|
4th Oct 2016 11:34am |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
