Home > Puma (Tdci) > Replacing all the rusty screws/nuts/bolts |
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XS Pete Member Since: 13 Jan 2011 Location: Suffolk Posts: 632 |
Decent A2 (304) is normally more than adequate for this type of application. A4 (316) is normally reserved for really harsh environments such as continuous submersion in marine applications. Have you had a bad experience using A2 then?
I also seem to remember that 316 isnt as tough as 304 (paricularly considering its tensile strength) so you need to consider carefully what the intended use is. Pete |
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4th Feb 2011 6:39pm |
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Glynparry25 Member Since: 16 Feb 2009 Location: Miserable Midlands Posts: 3015 |
Other option would be to go here http://www.tastynuts.com/ and order what you need as they use 316 SS or if you are feeling flash you could go Titanium
Glyn |
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4th Feb 2011 7:00pm |
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110SEB Member Since: 29 Jan 2009 Location: Essex, England Posts: 1444 |
Glyn, were you told of that website or did you just get lucky on Google?
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4th Feb 2011 10:20pm |
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Glynparry25 Member Since: 16 Feb 2009 Location: Miserable Midlands Posts: 3015 |
Haha.... well.... I ordered some bolts online before and 'tastynuts' came through the post It really is nut and bolt porn thought!!!
Glyn |
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4th Feb 2011 10:41pm |
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Defenderno9 Member Since: 24 Jan 2011 Location: Whitby Posts: 17 |
There are lots of different grades of stainless for many applications but as far as I can determine (google) there is no difference between tensile strength of 304 & 316. I am not aware what grade steel is used on the hinges, crossmember etc on my vehicle but if it is mild steel 304 & 316 are stronger. If the existing screws & bolts are HT grade 5 or grade 8 304 & 316 are weaker. I assume existing are mild steel so only consideration is corrosion. Therefore between 304 & 316 there is no contest.
I have a little experience of using 304 & 316 on previous Defenders & boats and although 304 looks fine for a few weeks/months it is no match for 316 which will not alter for years. Defender no 9 |
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5th Feb 2011 6:04am |
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Defenderno9 Member Since: 24 Jan 2011 Location: Whitby Posts: 17 |
Regarding the link to tastynuts.
Thanks but I am not sure it is nescessary to pay those sort of prices. It would be cheaper to buy a new vehicle! I have just compared one product. M8 x 40mm countersunk screw. I found these on ebay A4 stainless for around 70p with free delivery. (£3.39 for 5) A similar product (M8 x 40mm countersunk screw) on tastynuts is £3.84 and I guess this will be PLUS delivery. Additionally they do not make clear what grade stainless they are. They might be 304. Or have I missed something? Defender no 9 |
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5th Feb 2011 7:52am |
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XS Pete Member Since: 13 Jan 2011 Location: Suffolk Posts: 632 |
I think you'll find the standard bolts used are grade 8. They are certainly not plain mild steel!
I've been using these guys for a while, mainly as they're not far from me and I can just pop in: http://www.suffolkfasteners.com They are extremely knowledgeable about steel types and fastening applications. Pete |
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5th Feb 2011 8:21am |
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Glynparry25 Member Since: 16 Feb 2009 Location: Miserable Midlands Posts: 3015 |
Here it is, found here: http://www.tastynuts.com/Material_Sizing
Cost always comes into the equasion and Probolt are probably some of the finest made nuts and bolts in the world.... unfortunatly you have to pay the extra for it. Glyn |
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5th Feb 2011 9:17am |
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Grockle Member Since: 24 Nov 2008 Location: Peak District National Park Posts: 2266 |
I changed all ours last week with a kit fron Stig fastners,good service and price 2.4 90 XS
1968 1/32 scale Britains 109 Pick up. |
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5th Feb 2011 9:27am |
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XS Pete Member Since: 13 Jan 2011 Location: Suffolk Posts: 632 |
Those titanium socket cap screws look nice. I think I have a job at work which could benefit from a handfull of those. I might accidentally order a few extras
Pete |
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5th Feb 2011 9:32am |
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Glynparry25 Member Since: 16 Feb 2009 Location: Miserable Midlands Posts: 3015 |
Pete, are you sure there aren't 2 jobs that need it Glyn |
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5th Feb 2011 9:47am |
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Defenderno9 Member Since: 24 Jan 2011 Location: Whitby Posts: 17 |
Thanks Glyn,
I always assume unless it is stated in the product description and just says "stainless" it is the inferior a2/304. Having now read their description I agree their products are top class. Defender no 9 |
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6th Feb 2011 5:42am |
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Green Machine Member Since: 19 Nov 2010 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 1226 |
Resurrecting a slightly old thread here, but saves creating a new one. 90 is in the paint shop this week having a general tidy up. I've got a full set of stainless fixings from http://www.a2stainless.co.uk/, which I got a while ago, but waiting for the paint-work to be sorted before fitting them. I want to try to isolate the stainless fixings as best as possible in order to reduce potential galvanic corrosion. I've ordered a tub of ACF 50 Corrosion Block grease, and was going to coat them in that before fitting. Should I get some Duralac jointing compound instead? I was also thinking of getting some nylon / plastic washers to isolate the stainless bolt heads / stainless washers from the aluminium panels. Read somewhere that nylon is hygroscopic (attracts water) so maybe not the best thing? Some other plastic perhaps? What do you think?
Also - the 6 bolts that attach the spare wheel carrier to the back door are corroded (unsurprisingly). Guy who's doing the paint says he's struggled getting flanged bolts in the past (which those are)? Presumably not a good idea to replace these with stainless because of the loading of the wheel? Will I have to go dealer for replacements? Would have thought you could get a replacement on the web somewhere? Cheers for any advice - and apologies of this is far too dull for most people! Tris. |
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16th May 2011 6:37pm |
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wildrover Member Since: 09 Oct 2011 Location: Notts Posts: 51 |
Same problem as OP. Frustrating - what did you do with the bumper?
Anyone bought a SS number and if so any pictures and were you pleased? |
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24th Apr 2014 12:45pm |
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